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ski_king
08-03-2004, 04:40 PM
I plan on reworking my trailer this fall/winter. I plan to disassemble it, sandblast and repaint. I also plan to install new rails, carpet, jack, etc.

At one point I was considering doing it in the summer while I was on vacation, I could put the boat in the water, disassemble, prep the trailer and send it off to get painted. The problem with this idea is I don’t like the idea of leaving the boat in the water that long and I would be wasting my time working on the trailer when I should be skiing.

The idea of the fall/winter project makes more sense.

Now for the problem.

A friend told me it is a easy task to jack the boat up and pull the trailer out from underneath it. While lifting the back off the trailer and putting supports under it shouldn’t be to tough, but what about the front? If I could lift using the lifting ring that would be great, but the roof trusses in the garage I store it in won’t do.

Anybody have any ideas?

east tx skier
08-03-2004, 04:47 PM
I've heard of setting it on a stack of old carpets or old tires, but I don't think I'd do it with my boat.

Redid the bunks, carbet, angle irons, R&R prop guard, primed and painted. Did it in early May. Put the boat in the water.

Short of that, I think the best idea I've heard is finding someone with a trailer that will fit your hull, who will let you borrow it for a couple of days or however long you need it.

Short of that, I'd put that expensive and somewhat delicate boat in the water or on a lift.

$.02

bcampbe7
08-03-2004, 05:01 PM
Yeah, I was going to suggest finding a lift at a local marina to store it for a while. During the winter months it shouldn't be terribly expensive. The only problem would be the possibility of winterizing it while on the lift, at least getting all of the water out. I didn't look at your profile to see where you were located, but here in Tennessee you would be able to work on it for a while in the fall before it got close to freezing at night.

bcampbe7
08-03-2004, 05:04 PM
OK, now I see you are in PA. I would say having it on a lift thru mid October would be fine. It looks like the average low in Oct is around 37 degrees F.

ChuckD
08-04-2004, 12:08 AM
I was planning to refurbish my trailer as well. I am new to Mastercraft, as well to this forum... where would you buy matching paint, other than from MC?? (I recently bought a '88 PS190)

ski_king
08-04-2004, 09:08 AM
Most any autobody supply store should be able to match the color.

east tx skier
08-04-2004, 12:47 PM
I've got a white trailer. White rustoleum matched so closely that I can't tell what I painted and what I didn't paint.

captkidd
08-04-2004, 03:33 PM
I posted this on the old site, but it would probably be hard to find. A friend of mine completely refurbed his trailer a few years ago, and they used two or three large floor jacks to lift the boat off the trailer (I assume they lifted the boat and then pulled the trailer forward until the jack got in the way, then used another jack to hold it while moving the first jack). Then they lowered the boat onto two very large blocks of styrofoam.

You can order the exact paint from your MC dealer. It comes in a spray can and costs about $29/can. I've used this for touchups and it works great; very high quality paint. For doing an entire trailer I would probably recommend going to an auto body supply store and buying some paint to match, assuming you have access to a sprayer, compressor, etc. I would also paint the fenders in order to make sure they match.

BriEOD
08-06-2004, 11:42 PM
I'm with Doug, I found a gray Rustoleum that was so close to mine that I used that. I bought a few big roles of brown packing paper and taped off the boat. Then I sanded and painted while the boat sat on the trailer. As for the bunks, carpet well you would obviously have to get the boat off the trailer.

Dan K
08-09-2004, 10:18 PM
I start sandblasting Friday, I'll let you guys know how it goes.
I bought 'chassis saver' paint to use as an undercoat. It is a very tough polyeurathane but must be sanded if not recoated with the final coat within 3-5 hours. So timing will be critical.

jake
08-09-2004, 10:45 PM
Dan: what solution did you come up with for storing the boat off the trailer?

Dan K
08-10-2004, 02:17 PM
Jake,
This wasn't a problem for me, I will keep the boat at my dock for the week or so I need to.

Dan K
08-23-2004, 05:54 PM
I finished sandblasting and painting this weekend.
A couple things I have learned;
1 - Sandblasting takes longer than I thought, about 7 hours includind reclaiming and sifting the 200 lbs of sand I purchased.
2- Sand gets everywhere, wear a hood, ear plugs, and good quality respirator.

Painting went fairly well, I painted a coat of chassis saver paint followed by the final coat of white paint. Putting the trailer on its' side was the easiest way to get the bottom done.

Now I need to put new bunks on and install the fenders and lights.

east tx skier
08-24-2004, 12:30 PM
You may need to employ a little mechanical advantage if you're replacing the bunk wood to get it to line up on the front angle irons. Once you get it lined up right, bolting it down should give you the twist you need. I also recommend two layers of carpet on the top and inside of the bunk as extra insurance. The boat can score and fuse the carpet causing it to weaken in these locations. I'd suggest carpeting only the top and inside first, then wrapping the entire bunk with the second layer. Also, don't forget the stainless staples. Just a little heads up/FYI

captkidd
08-24-2004, 03:15 PM
This has nothing to do with trailer refurb, but is related to sandblasting. I used to work with a guy who insisted on doing everything the hard way. When he got ready to repaint his house he rented a sandblaster to remove the old paint. Apparently the sandblaster sent a pretty good cloud of sand into the air around the house, because so much sand wound up in his neighbor's gutters that the next time it rained the gutters were torn off the house. He repaired the gutters for them, but I think about that story every time I hear someone mention a sandblaster.

Dan K
08-26-2004, 03:31 PM
CaptKidd,
I saw them blast a log home near my cottage. They used corn instead of sand. The noise form this operation could be heard for a long ways.
I couldn't help but wonder if they had a huge bird/mouse problem after spraying that much corn around.

east tx skier
08-28-2004, 01:32 PM
Just happened to notice that the lock nut on the lag bolt securing my v-block was about 1/3 of the way down the bolt. After tightening it up, I checked the rest, and every lock nut was a little loose (but not as bad as the first). When I secured my bunks, the boat wasn't on the trailer. I'm guessing, the weight of the boat pushed the bunks down a tad and left some more space to be closed on the nut. All tight now. Check your nuts.

Dan K
08-30-2004, 12:17 PM
I put nylon lock nuts on all the bunk bolts, hopefully this helps.

east tx skier
09-01-2004, 12:08 PM
Mine were all nylon lock nuts new as of April or so. I really think I just never tightened once the boat was in place after replacing the bunks.

MasterCrafting
09-02-2004, 11:39 PM
We are getting into the process of grinding the rust off our trailer. We dont really want to do the whole thing now because its not that bad. I've been under the boat with a dremel tool grinding off the rust from the stone chips. Its slow going but i think it will be worth it in the long run. :banana:

Footin
09-03-2004, 08:57 AM
Those of you thinking about painting your trailer, heres what I a while back:

I took the boat to a local marinia and they lifted it off and stored it for a small fee, I then took the trialer to the Vocational school where I had previously spoken with the body shop teacher. They sandblasted the whole thing and put on a decent paint job (one or two runs in the paint, but who cares, it's a trailer). The whole thing took them about two weeks and at end I was only charged for materials and as I recall it was about $100.00. Not bad for a new lookin trailer.

east tx skier
09-03-2004, 10:44 AM
Great info, Footin.

Mastercrafting, stay after it. Don't forget the rust underneath the angle irons (where the bolts go into the bunks) and the indented part of the cross members where everything seems to pool.

captkidd
09-03-2004, 12:00 PM
I saw a boat trailer in the parking lot last Saturday with one bunk that was completely broken in two. It was an older trailer, probably from an I/O or fishing boat, but I'll bet it was a pain to load/launch.

pilot02
06-07-2005, 05:39 PM
Just a couple of trailer restoration pics from my 89 tristar 190 as well as the boat buddy trial and error installation. Original installation worked well but decided to add the winch....

pilot02
06-07-2005, 05:43 PM
Just in case anyone is wondering, I chemically stripped the trailer initially and then sand blasted the remainder. In the second pic, the yellow (rust look) is actually the zinc left behind by the metal prep that you clean everything with prior to priming. Trailer was then primed in epoxy and painted with acrylic urethane. I'll try to get some current pics of just the trailer soon.

planoboy
01-19-2006, 01:30 AM
chain hoisted off trailer, lowered boat on styrofoam blocks, cleaned bottom of boat w/ diluted toilet bowl cleaner, wax, re-worked prop. Trailer : clean, remove rust where possible, prime w/ "one step", paint w/ matched acylic and two part clear coat, NEW brake actuator assy, brake lines, wheel cylinders, rollers, bunks, carpet, repack wheel bearings, new spare, all back together. We like it. 1994 225 VRS 260 hrs. 130 lovin hrs since w got it in 04.

5459

5460

5461

5462

5463

planoboy
01-19-2006, 01:33 AM
couple more pix. Getting the trailer back underneath was easy, just lift boat w/ hoise, get it lined up / started and crank the winch to draw it tight.
The trailer and boat are teen agers this year, looking good me thinks.
R/Plano

5464

5465

5466

Kevin 89MC
01-19-2006, 11:42 AM
:toast: Very nice work planoboy! Someday, when I get the time, I'll get to do mine as well.

planoboy
01-19-2006, 12:32 PM
Thx Man.
have not counted up how much time/money, but appx $500 and 50 hrs ?
worth it, tho.

Ramhouse
01-23-2006, 01:27 AM
Okay, here's my .02..read this on Wakeworld... lower the front of the trailer so the stearn is as high as it will go..block up the back end of boat..now raise the front as high it will go and block the bow..now level the trailer and drive it out...i haven't done it but makes sencs...
Richard

Jaysonsmith
10-22-2012, 11:27 AM
Okay, here's my .02..read this on Wakeworld... lower the front of the trailer so the stearn is as high as it will go..block up the back end of boat..now raise the front as high it will go and block the bow..now level the trailer and drive it out...i haven't done it but makes sencs...
Richard
Yeah until the prop guard comes into play. I like the way you're thinking though.

kjohnson
10-25-2012, 10:29 AM
Just happened to notice that the lock nut on the lag bolt securing my v-block was about 1/3 of the way down the bolt. After tightening it up, I checked the rest, and every lock nut was a little loose (but not as bad as the first). When I secured my bunks, the boat wasn't on the trailer. I'm guessing, the weight of the boat pushed the bunks down a tad and left some more space to be closed on the nut. All tight now. Check your nuts.

I check my nuts on a regular basis. :-) Wait a minute, that sounds weird.

thatsmrmastercraft
10-25-2012, 12:40 PM
I check my nuts on a regular basis. :-) Wait a minute, that sounds weird.

Perhaps adjust or re-situate would be more appropriate.:rolleyes: