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captain planet
01-29-2007, 11:34 AM
I have a 2000 Suburban that has two issues that I'm looking for some feedback. Last year the rear window defroster wire came off the window. I got it repaired by my local Chevy dealership but they said it can't be soldered so they used some type of epoxy. Sounded kind of fishy, but it lasted till last night. They told me that I may have to get a new back window if it doesn't last and I want defrosters.$$$$$ :mad:

Next, has anyone ever tried to replace the window washer fluid reservoir? Mine is leaking....yippee!!:( Chevy rules! :mad:

trickskier
01-29-2007, 11:49 AM
CP, I had a 2000 Suburban too. Never had the problem with the back window. However, I had the same problem with window washer reservoir. Turned out to be the base of one the motors was cracked. There are two one for the windshield and one for the back glass. I'll bet you have the same problem.

It's a bit of a pain to replace. You have to take the battery out and drop the reservoir out the bottom. The motors just pop in place. PM me if you want to discuss.

Jerseydave
01-29-2007, 12:11 PM
I also have a 2000 suburban (3/4 ton), no problems so far. She tows like a dream, just thirsty on gas.

I don't think I ever use my rear window defroster, mostly because I'm always towing something.

If those are the only 2 issues you have with a 7-year-old truck, you're doing pretty good!

captain planet
01-29-2007, 12:21 PM
I also have a 2000 suburban (3/4 ton), no problems so far. She tows like a dream, just thirsty on gas.

I don't think I ever use my rear window defroster, mostly because I'm always towing something.

If those are the only 2 issues you have with a 7-year-old truck, you're doing pretty good!
Uh, I had the recall on the fule pump assembly sending unit (or whatever you call it) and I had to put in a new sunroof to the tune of $1500. :mad: :mad: That one left a bad taste in my mouth.

I will say my local dealer, Progressive Chevrolet, is great. They come and get my truck so my wife won't have to figure out what to do with the kids and their car seats when it needs service.

Maristar210
01-29-2007, 12:27 PM
CP,

If the washer fluid tank is just cracked can you get to the crack? If so some good silicone epoxy could solve that issue. PIA to replace, I'd try to fix it first.

Regarding the window, can you access the point at which the connection is broken or is it inside the glass? If it is not inside the glass I would thry to solder it or manufacture a jumper out of something that conducts heat well.

We'll see how long Buckeye's take to respond.8p :D 8p

captain planet
01-29-2007, 01:11 PM
CP,

If the washer fluid tank is just cracked can you get to the crack? If so some good silicone epoxy could solve that issue. PIA to replace, I'd try to fix it first.

Regarding the window, can you access the point at which the connection is broken or is it inside the glass? If it is not inside the glass I would thry to solder it or manufacture a jumper out of something that conducts heat well.

We'll see how long Buckeye's take to respond.8p :D 8p
Actually the lines for the window defroster are on the inside of the window, no layers of glass. The metal tab that was soldered on pulled off where it was attached to the defroster. It was fixed once and I was told they can't solder it. I just found out it is a $35 fix, if they can get it to stick again.

Maristar210
01-29-2007, 01:28 PM
Got it CP

Good Luck

Steve

jimmer2880
01-29-2007, 02:29 PM
I've seen defroster repair kits at the car parts places (napa, autozone, etc). Will any of those help you out? I'm sorry I can't be more specific, but I'm a bit confused as to why the shop says they can't fix it.

No problems at all on my '99 other than a U-joint last month (was about time anyway).:D

rick s.
01-29-2007, 03:05 PM
I had a '99 suburban that went thru it's first set of brakes at 22K miles. Then every 8K after that.

flyingskibiker
01-29-2007, 05:26 PM
um, is it me, or would soldering shatter the glass... my defroster is applied to the glass on the inside of the vehicle. the kits one can by in an auto parts store is basically paint on copper conductor. i believe they also have some "glue" for the terminals. not sure. half of my defroster doesn't work (two zones). i haven't tried the repair yet because i need to locate the open/break... DANG IT!

jimmer2880
01-29-2007, 07:05 PM
um, is it me, or would soldering shatter the glass... my defroster is applied to the glass on the inside of the vehicle. the kits one can by in an auto parts store is basically paint on copper conductor. i believe they also have some "glue" for the terminals. not sure. half of my defroster doesn't work (two zones). i haven't tried the repair yet because i need to locate the open/break... DANG IT!

I'm not sure why it would shatter the glass. But - what I do know from experience :o is that if you weld directly over auto glass, the welding spawls will leave little divits all over the glass. It melts many little divits in the glass.

P-hat_in_Cincy
01-30-2007, 09:22 AM
I'm not sure why it would shatter the glass. But - what I do know from experience :o is that if you weld directly over auto glass, the welding spawls will leave little divits all over the glass. It melts many little divits in the glass.

You have to be careful with tempered glass. Due to the temper, the middle of the glass is in tension while the outer is compression. Go thru the compression layer and it's all over for the window...the window will shatter.

The metal terminal is soldered to a silver terminal pad (part of your heating grid pattern). The terminals are soldered to the tempered glass as a normal process in the manufacturing of the part , so it is done that way originally (I'm not sure at what temperature and length of time tho).

I'll do some digging to see if a terminal can be re-soldered and what stuff to use.

Ric
01-30-2007, 09:29 AM
fuel pump and abs were issues on that year model but the drivetrain is solid

how did the reservoir get cracked? how did the defog tab break? are they mfg defects or did you break them? I have never been trusting of sunroofs.. They all look like leakers

captain planet
01-30-2007, 09:31 AM
You have to be careful with tempered glass. Due to the temper, the middle of the glass is in tension while the outer is compression. Go thru the compression layer and it's all over for the window...the window will shatter.

The metal terminal is soldered to a silver terminal pad (part of your heating grid pattern). The terminals are soldered to the tempered glass as a normal process in the manufacturing of the part , so it is done that way originally (I'm not sure at what temperature and length of time tho).

I'll do some digging to see if a terminal can be re-soldered and what stuff to use.
P-hat, I'm with you on this. If you look at the window you can see that the terminal was originally soldered. Now, that being said I'm not going to pull out my soldering gun, but I can't believe that a dealership can't do the same thing. The way they fixed it last time was with an epoxy that is conductive, but it didn't last. They can do it again for $35, but it is a hastle to have to take it back to the dealership each time. I'll be interested to see what you can find out.

jimmer2880
01-30-2007, 09:39 AM
You have to be careful with tempered glass. Due to the temper, the middle of the glass is in tension while the outer is compression. Go thru the compression layer and it's all over for the window...the window will shatter.

The metal terminal is soldered to a silver terminal pad (part of your heating grid pattern). The terminals are soldered to the tempered glass as a normal process in the manufacturing of the part , so it is done that way originally (I'm not sure at what temperature and length of time tho).

I'll do some digging to see if a terminal can be re-soldered and what stuff to use.

Cool - thanks. I never knew that.:o

jimmer2880
01-30-2007, 09:41 AM
fuel pump and abs were issues on that year model but the drivetrain is solid

how did the reservoir get cracked? how did the defog tab break? are they mfg defects or did you break them? I have never been trusting of sunroofs.. They all look like leakers

This reminds me to never buy the 1st year of a new model. Unfortunately, I keep doing that with the same experiences. Luckily, my '99 was the last year for that style.

captain planet
01-30-2007, 09:43 AM
fuel pump and abs were issues on that year model but the drivetrain is solid

how did the reservoir get cracked? how did the defog tab break? are they mfg defects or did you break them? I have never been trusting of sunroofs.. They all look like leakers
Well, the defog wire got pulled off last year by a careless guy helping me put our christmas tree in the truck. The windshield res. is a mfg. defect, but Tricky says it might be the pump as opposed to the tank...and then there is the sunroof. The guy at Progressive Chevrolet's service department told me that the sun roofs are, "meant to leak" and that ther is a catch drain that goes around the perimeter of the window and catches the water and channels it down to the bottom of the truck.

Well apparently someone, (not me :rant: ) was in the truck and took the shade that slides over the inside of the sunroof to block the sun and jammed it back breaking this drain off and it got stuck all the way back inside the roof. Apparently you can't buy or fix just this part of the sunroof, so we had to get a whole new one. Our dealer found us a used one, but still was $1,100 plus labor. :mad: :cry:

Take this as a lesson, be CAREFUL with your sunroofs.

captain planet
01-30-2007, 09:47 AM
This reminds me to never buy the 1st year of a new model. Unfortunately, I keep doing that with the same experiences. Luckily, my '99 was the last year for that style.
Yea, I know. I bought it used in 04 and it only had 46K miles on it. It was virturally spotless, the receiver had NEVER had a hitch installed in it so I knew it had never towed anything, and the price was right. I'll keep this in mind in 2011 when we get rid of this one NOT to buy a 2007.

dog paw
01-30-2007, 10:03 AM
Here's a bullitin compleat with part #'s for the epoxy.

Capitans' right the sunroof is in a "pan" so to speak with drain hoses that run down the A+B pillers the hoses do come off time to time . Makes a mess on the headliner

Now go fix that grid in .03 tenths of a hour cause thats all your going to get payed to do it...:D :D

Bob



Document ID# 1871351
2005 GMC Truck Yukon - 4WD


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Subject: Repair Information for Reconnection of Rear Window Defroster Contact or Tab #03-08-48-006A - (11/08/2006)



Models: 2000-2007 GM Light and Medium Duty Trucks

2003-2007 HUMMER H2

2006-2007 HUMMER H3

2005-2007 Saab 9-7X

with Electric Rear Window Defroster (RPO C49)




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This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-48-006 (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).


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Repair Suggestion
Electrically conductive epoxy repair kits have been successful in reattaching the electric defroster tab to the rear glass as an alternative to rear window replacement. Repair kits such as Kent Automotive P/N 57827-C and LOCTITE™ product #21351, or equivalent, are commercially available. By following the manufacturer's recommended repair procedure specified on the kit and properly preparing the bonding surface, an effective repair may be achieved.

In addition to the strength of the bond, it is vital to strive for the best possible appearance. While it is unlikely that customers may refer to the appearance of the rear window defroster and its components as a positive styling feature of the vehicle interior, it is easy to elicit the opposite reaction due to a poor cosmetic application. If the tab (contact) is located in such a location or manner that an effective and attractive bond cannot be produced, window replacement is required and preferred.

Parts Information
Conductaloy Epoxy can be ordered directly from Kent Automotive at 1-800-654-6333 (in Canada, 1-800-563-1717).

For LOCTITE Defroster Tab Repair Kit information on local availability, call Loctite Customer Service at 1-800-434-1836.

Part Number
Description

57827-C
Conductaloy Epoxy Repair Kit

21351
LOCTITE™ Defroster Tab Repair Kit


Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

C0631
Defroster, Rear Grid - Repair
0.3 hr


Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Failed Object
Fault/Reason Code
Location Code
Warranty Type
Repair/Action Code
Labor Time

8435305
Defroster, Rear Grid - Repair
84353
61
0
01
05
0.3 hr




GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION


© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.


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Document ID# 1871351
2005 GMC Truck Yukon - 4WD

P-hat_in_Cincy
01-31-2007, 09:42 AM
IF you want to try to re-solder...at your own risk:
1) Remove any old residue/epoxy from the terminal and terminal pad. Old solder can be removed using the solder gun.
2) Use #500 solder
3) Solder gun should be about 340deg C
4) When applying the solder, the solder will gain a glossy look somewhere around 3secs. Remove heat.

Again, I'm not sure the effects of prolonged heat on the glass so if you want to try at your own risk be ready for the worst outcome.

captain planet
01-31-2007, 09:54 AM
IF you want to try to re-solder...at your own risk:
1) Remove any old residue/epoxy from the terminal and terminal pad. Old solder can be removed using the solder gun.
2) Use #500 solder
3) Solder gun should be about 340deg C
4) When applying the solder, the solder will gain a glossy look somewhere around 3secs. Remove heat.

Again, I'm not sure the effects of prolonged heat on the glass so if you want to try at your own risk be ready for the worst outcome.
P-hat, I appreciate the research. Knowing that a new back window is SEVERAL hundred dollars, I'll probably stick with the epoxy fix for $35, but if it comes off again I may try this. Thanks.

Has anybody ever used those soldering guns that are "cool" and have some sort of light? I wonder if those would work?

FrankSchwab
02-02-2007, 12:20 AM
Not for this application; you'll need to apply a lot of heat, and the lightweight, battery-operated "Cool heat" soldering irons just aren't going to do it. They're barely able to solder two small-gauge wires together.