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shepherd
01-02-2007, 11:08 PM
I have a new Alpine CDE 9852 head unit in my boat. Had it professionally installed with my new amp (which is wired to my 4 speakers). When it plays for a while it just dies on me, cycles back on, dies again, cycles back on, dies, etc...
It only really seems to happen at the higher volumes so I'm thinking there is some power overload going on.

So what do you think? Defective head unit?

Sodar
01-02-2007, 11:12 PM
I have a new Alpine CDE 9852 head unit in my boat. Had it professionally installed with my new amp (which is wired to my 4 speakers). When it plays for a while it just dies on me, cycles back on, dies again, cycles back on, dies, etc...
It only really seems to happen at the higher volumes so I'm thinking there is some power overload going on.

So what do you think? Defective head unit?

Same thing happens in our center console when the batteries get low... sounds like it is not getting enough power.

Monte
01-02-2007, 11:16 PM
Same thing happens in our center console when the batteries get low... sounds like it is not getting enough power.
my thoughts exactly

shepherd
01-02-2007, 11:21 PM
Well I was hoping that was it, but the battery is showing a little over 12 volts on the multimeter (engine not running).

Monte
01-02-2007, 11:25 PM
Does it work with the boat off?? if so.. it could be that your alternator is not pushing enough juice..

beef
01-02-2007, 11:26 PM
Does it have a removable faceplate? If so, check that the connections between the faceplate and hu are clean. You can use a pencil eraser to remove any dirt or corrosion. I had a similar problem that was fixed in this way.

shepherd
01-02-2007, 11:56 PM
Actually, the stereo is so new it's only been used with the boat off, while I've been working on it in the garage. That's why I first suspected low power, but the battery is still strong - I charged it up about a month ago.

There is a removable face plate, but it's a brand new stereo so there shouldn't be any corrosion. Also, I've never removed the face plate except to flip it down to insert a CD. But I'll check it anyway. Thanks for the suggestion beef.

Leroy
01-03-2007, 12:06 AM
I'm with Sodar now, I think the battery is low. It's funny because they can trick you into thinking they are ok with no load. Sounds like a low bat condition. Charge up the bat again.

Actually, the stereo is so new it's only been used with the boat off, while I've been working on it in the garage. That's why I first suspected low power, but the battery is still strong - I charged it up about a month ago.

There is a removable face plate, but it's a brand new stereo so there shouldn't be any corrosion. Also, I've never removed the face plate except to flip it down to insert a CD. But I'll check it anyway. Thanks for the suggestion beef.

victorff
01-03-2007, 12:11 AM
Were you having this problem before the amp was wired in?

shepherd
01-03-2007, 09:47 AM
Were you having this problem before the amp was wired in?

Yes I was. I hoped that the amp would fix the problem, and it seemed like it did for a while. But now it's doing it again. I have the battery on a slow charge now after seeing Leroy's and Sodar's posts. I always assumed the battery was strong if it showed 12+ volts on the multimeter without a load on it - didn't know that's not necessarily true. We'll see tonight when I try it again. Thanks again for the suggestions guys.

wesgardner
01-03-2007, 11:37 AM
Make sure the GROUND side of things is GOOD as well...FWIW - bad or faulty grounds can cause all kinds of electrical anomolies and in many cases LOOK good but are really not....

pilot02
01-03-2007, 11:49 AM
Definitely a power problem. If you used the power wires already installed in the boat, check the inside of the insulation on each end for corrosion and also check the gauge of the wire.

cwright
01-03-2007, 12:03 PM
Might be a long shot, but is it overheating? If you can determine temp of the heat sink I've had decks (that were buried in a glove box) get so hot they shut down and had to be "reset".

Might also be a defective deck??? Check their website for tech help and ask them if others have had the problem, etc.

Good luck

JimN
01-03-2007, 12:08 PM
If you have been running the stereo when the motor wasn't running, you're killing the battery. Your gauge may say 12V but there's no way it'll be fully charged after that long. Also, look on the amp- there will be at least one fuse and if you see that it's a 30A or 40A fuse and you used the original non-amp stereo wires, it's: not going to work well, your amp will have problems eventually and you could have a major problem. 16ga wire isn't enough for an amp. If your boat had an amp before, even that may not be adequate for this one.

If it's a repetitious on/off/on/off thing, it's definitely a power issue. This is called "motorboating" in the stereo business.

Sodar
01-03-2007, 12:21 PM
If it's a repetitious on/off/on/off thing, it's definitely a power issue. This is called "motorboating" in the stereo business.

Hey, what were they like anyway? They looked pretty good, are they real? Are they built for speed or comfort? What'd you do with them? Motorboat? You play the motorboat? [makes sputtering motorboat noise] You motorboatin son of a biatch! You old sailor you!
~Wedding Crashers

Sorry... It just comes to mind everytime I hear the word motorboating!!

JimN
01-03-2007, 12:36 PM
"Hey, what were they like anyway? They looked pretty good, are they real? Are they built for speed or comfort? What'd you do with them?"

Don't know, wasn't there.

mash
01-03-2007, 10:58 PM
I just replaced a battery in my boat. Voltage checked O.K. but the amps weren't there to start the boat. Check your battery on a load meter.

Leroy
01-03-2007, 11:03 PM
This is why the good battery testers (like A, AA, D, C and car batteries) have to apply a load to them in order to accurately measure the voltage. Also, it should be measuring ~13.7V instead of 12 volts.

shepherd
01-03-2007, 11:33 PM
OK, looks like the battery was probably weak. After charging the battery all day, the stereo played normally - about 1/2 hour at fairly high volume. Multimeter showing the battery holding at around 12.4 volts now - it was around 12 or 12.1 last night when I was having the problem.

I normally only play music with the engine shut down. In the past, I've been able to play my stereo for hours without draining the battery too much but the new system is naturally draining the battery at a higher rate because it has more power. Should I look into a stronger battery? Right now I have a Duralast, 500 CCA, about 2 or 3 years old. Any recommendations? I know a few people recommended the Optima batteries but they seem real expensive. Why?

victorff
01-03-2007, 11:41 PM
They are worth the money. I have one in my Rockcrawler, and in the X-9.
http://www.optimabatteries.com/publish/optima/americas0/en/config/product_info/marine.html

sanjuan23
01-03-2007, 11:47 PM
550 CCA Never felt like it had enough to get things moving in my boat went out dropped the cash on the optima hand havent looked back. Next you have the amp installed now which is going to draw alot more power than the HU by itself. Never have to worry about maintaining an optima and never a concern for the battery spilling etc.

SKI*MC
01-03-2007, 11:49 PM
if all else fails, you could go with a capicitor, this well prevent you from draning the battery and frying alternators. (so i have been told)

shepherd
01-03-2007, 11:52 PM
Thanks. I'll go shopping for an Optima. I guess after all the work I've invested in this boat, I shouldn't be cutting corners on the battery...

rem_pss308
01-04-2007, 02:58 AM
You can set up your radio to work off a seperate battery, and use the other one for cranking.
Deisel has a good write up on it.
I did it to mine. I have three amps.
I use two optimas to run the sterio, and it lasts for over two hours at 1/2 to 3/4 volume.

cbryan70
01-04-2007, 07:45 PM
if you get a new battery i would go with a duel purpose perhaps. At least with these batteries they will beable to stay under a load like an amplifier longer then a regular starting battery

shepherd
01-04-2007, 08:07 PM
I'm going to look at the dual purpose Optimas. I'm still thinking about adding another amp and a sub, which I assume will require another battery. How do you wire up multiple batteries? Do you have to do it in series or parallel so that they will all charge from the alternator? Or do you just keep them separate and charge them with a charger periodically?

wesgardner
01-05-2007, 03:39 PM
Wire batteries in parallel or you'll end up with voltage other than 12....

LaneTrain
01-13-2007, 10:08 AM
I have also experienced this problem in my '89 Prostar 190. I had one battery that powered every accessory in the boat (shower, amp, horn, cigar lighter, etc). The 720W amp powered one 10" sub and two 175W RMS 6 1/2" tower speakers. The system would cut out when I got above 3/4 volume and pissed me off more than anything, because there's nothing worse than cranking it up when you're riding hard and your stereo cuts out!!!

I installed a second battery in parallel to my existing battery and relocated all the accessories to the second battery. I didn't do it exactly like Diesel suggested with the electrical battery isolator and just used a manual isolator. Here's the link for Diesel's write-up that offers great advice. http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=3557&highlight=dual+batteries

The second battery will act like a capacitor in your system, but will only output 12V, but have much more capacity in terms of amps (flow), which will allow your system to place more demands and have the instant amps it needs without cutting out. Once I installed the second battery, I installed two more tower speakers (375W 6x9) and the sytem really kicks now. I still have encountered the stereo cutting out when I get above 90% (that high only when someone is riding behind the boat and wants to hear the music), but this is due to my alternator not pushing enough amps. It is the stock alternator which only pushes 51 amps. My next step is to install a higher output marine alternator, but I haven't gotten that ambitious yet.