View Full Version : Speed KILLS ... (me)

12-18-2006, 02:25 PM
Since it is 14 degrees this morning and all I can do is think about buoys, I will seek wisdom from TT. I was able to run 22 off at 34mph fairly consistenly last fall, but anything shorter was impossible unless slowed way down. Also, I made enough 35 off passes at 30 mph that I tried 38 a few times at the same speed and felt like I was starting over. Seemed like starting a loop at slower speeds and working up was a good idea, but I'm unable to deal with appropriate speed now. Any suggestions for getting speed up, and what about that rope-in-the-water slack when trying to get past the blue loop? I want more - and less! :) Thanks.

12-18-2006, 02:50 PM
Go back to 34/22, and run it and run it and run it. Do NOT shorten the rope if you aren't ready. If you have to slow it down to get consistant at a given lenght, fine, but do not shorten the rope at any speed but your tournament speed (34 or 36) making a shorter length at a slower speed, then not making at "your" speed, just messes with your head, as well as messes up your rythem in my opinion.

If you are getting slack, it could be any number of problems, but my problem when I get slack is not starting the pre-turn early enough. Change edges as soon as you cross the second "wake".

12-18-2006, 02:59 PM
i agree with hsofreek, stick with 34/22 and stay at 34 when you shorten it. you may choose to slow it down some maybe a 33 or soft 34to get use to the length. although running those shortlines at 30mph maybe fun, its not a good way to train. limit those passes to once in awhile if you need to do it.

12-18-2006, 03:10 PM
I agree with the above on the speed and shortening the rope. As for slack I find that I start getting slack if I have not finished my previous turn and do not have good angle across the wake. What I call skiing straight to the ball which results in too much speed at the turn and gobs of slack.

12-18-2006, 04:47 PM
Thanks, pretty much what I was thinking, but the short lines were sooo tempting and fun, even going slow. What is most important to running passes at good speeds; strength, repetition, other?? Another topic, I have been using a toe plate since starting to ski but just bought an 05 monza with approch boots. I skiied it once and felt like I was trying to stand on a balance beam the whole time - no way I could have made a pass at any speed. I have been on a system 8 for the last year. Opinions on learning to ski with double boots or sticking with the tried and true toe plate. I realize now how much I must be moving my heel around when skiing with the toe plate.

12-18-2006, 09:26 PM
The trick to skiing 28off is hanging on to the handle until you have to release , be greedy with that handle . Let the ski finnish it's turn (patiance in the turn) & rip.:)

12-18-2006, 11:29 PM
I agree, hold the handle longer, and start the pre-turn earlier. If let go of the handle, ski to the ball, then turn and go the other way, you get slack. Pick a location before the ball to ski to, hold on to the handle with your back hand longer and begin your pre-turn at the second wake, and you'll be at 43off in no time!

12-19-2006, 12:19 AM
It all sounds good, bet the boat will still have me down course for awhile! Thanks, sounds like just deciding to stick with the 34mph speed and pull hard enough to be early is the goal. Any opinion on changing to double boots this late in the game? I have been open water skiing for 15 years, but just learned to course ski August of 05. My one ride in the approach boots felt like starting from scratch.

12-19-2006, 07:47 AM
switching will feel strange, and there will be a little bit of a re-learning curve, but overall, you enjoy double boots more. You'll have much better control over the ski, allowing you to edge better. I also feel that as long as they aren't too tight, it's safer. I believe in the "both in or both out" theory. As long as your feet stay together, you are safer. But, my feeling on the Approaches is that it's very difficult to find that line between too loose and too tight. I personnally don't think my Approaches would ever release.

12-19-2006, 08:42 AM
I would like to add a couple thoughts.. What I see most of the time, almost always, is that when skiers shorten the ski rope, the tend to pull long thru the wake and carry to much speed to the buoy, which creates the slack rope situation. IMHO, the shorter the rope, the less hard the skier should pull, by this I mean that the leverage and whip from the boat off the previous buoy, normally creates plenty off speed. so, the key always seems to be gates and one ball. lots of different ways to approach the gates, but what's gotta happen is that when you go thru the wakes, you immediately get off the gas and edge change, don't just go flat on the ski, make sure to go totally from inside edge, to outside edge. handle low and at the hips is very important during the edge change transition. once you have changed edges, are gliding nicely to the buoy, make sure to keep your head up, shoulders level, don't look down at the buoy, (this is tough for me) try to see it in your periphery vision. At the buoy, lots of different ways to describe this.. really depends on your skiing style.. But, try not to reach for the handle with your outside hand, reaching for the handle creates some not fun stuff, drop the hip and the ski will turn on it's own and the handle will come in naturally to your body. If things are down correctly, then the whole pass seams to feel slow and easy. One bad rushed/late buoy and it's scramble time for the rest of the run.

All this was just one persons opinion, for every 100 skiers, there are 100 different opinions as to how to get around 6 floating orange buoys.. good luck in your (and ours) never ending quest.

IMHO, double boots are the only way to go. Remember, when going through the re-learning curve, one step back, hopefully means 2 steps forwards.

Happy Holidays.

12-19-2006, 08:57 AM
The shorter the lines the more time you need to spend preparing to turn. It's kind of the chicken or the egg but, the things to master with shorter lines are:

Body position behind the boat
Angle off the ball
release from the boat right behind the boat

The body position is important because to do it properly you only get about 20 feet to accelerate. To do this in 20 feet you need to be in a good effecient leverage position and the ski needs to be kept in the right position to advance into preparing to turn stage.

Angle off the ball is probably a result of good body position and good release from the boat. The key factor here is to not start to lean against the boat to soon. Finish the turn and wait until the ski is completely between your hips and the boat. Then it's all body position.

Release from the boat starts right behind the boat at 38-32 off. This is where you are keeping the ski in front of you so that it will continue to go outward and you body has to start making up the difference in length as the boat go downcourse.

12-19-2006, 01:37 PM
Appreciate all the input - I will give the approach boots an honest effort. Sitting here I can think it through and know just what to do - but every time I hit the gates it becomes hang on no matter what happens. Couldn't be my youthful reflexes are a proplem? Summer is coming and that 43 off - at 10mph - might be in reach.