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Leroy
12-17-2006, 10:13 AM
This thread has TMC1 all over it...

Our front door is mahogany, in direct sun for >1/2 the day and looking like....well like my teak platform at the moment....

After reading a little it sounds like the best treatment is linseed oil 1-2 a year (maybe teak oil, any difference in teak and linseed?)

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Exterior_Door_Finish.html

If that is all it takes that is ok with me.

Comments?

TMCNo1
12-17-2006, 10:34 AM
This thread has TMC1 all over it...

Our front door is mahogany, in direct sun for >1/2 the day and looking like....well like my teak platform at the moment....

After reading a little it sounds like the best treatment is linseed oil 1-2 a year (maybe teak oil, any difference in teak and linseed?)

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Exterior_Door_Finish.html

If that is all it takes that is ok with me.

Comments?



You got me on this one! Linseed oil will stay gummy/sticky. I don't know about teak oil, but would be worth a try, what have you got to loose. Where is the oil going to go, but into the wood to nourish it.
I would try googling door manufacturers and question them on recommended finishes for doors in high exposure conditions. In our case, the door is painted the house color and is behind a full glass storm door/enclosure. The heat buildup is enormous between the glass and the front door for 7 mos. of the year when the sun from the south shines on it all day, but the joints do expand and contract some, yet the finish is still excellent. Good luck! Sorry Gene, I just had to respond!

TMCNo1
12-17-2006, 10:44 AM
PS, I have wood paneling on my inside garage walls. About 3/4 of one wall gets direct sunlight all year long every morning till noon, with the door open or thru the door windows and really dries out the wood, so I coat it about once a year with Armor-All. Works like a charm and the wood returns to the color of the other paneling after a good wipedown.

Slinkyredfoot
12-17-2006, 10:58 AM
Hey Leroy, I had a new front door installed over 10 years ago, made of oak. The installer told me to brush on a sealer coat, then two coats of spar varnish which I did. It faces due west, gets a lot of direct sun and still look like new 10 years later.

Leroy
12-17-2006, 11:22 AM
Hey Slinky; maybe I need to change over to oak! I think mahogany is like teak and takes a lot of work.

Slinkyredfoot
12-17-2006, 11:27 AM
My neighbor at the lake restored an old 56 Chris Craft a few years back too. There is a bit of mahogany on that boat and the guy that did it for him also used spar varnish. It still looks like new also and you know what direct sun will due to a boat

Roonie's
12-17-2006, 04:35 PM
I had a fir entry door and we teak oiled it about 4-7 coats of the stuff wiping off after every application and light sanding in between coats. It works great and the best part is all it takes for maintenance is a light sand and reapply every couple of years. If you go with spar varnish it may last longer but it will yellow and crack over time. The only way to re-apply is sand it all off and start new or use a varnish stripper. I found the least hassle is the teak oil finish as I have used both (currently have laquered fir interior doors). Conversion varnish is another option but they will fail in high moisture areas. There is no magic solution out there. I vote for teak oil.

ski_king
12-17-2006, 04:58 PM
I would bet Spar Urethane may work great. It is a lot of work, but the door isn't all that big.

Sikkens Cetol should work also. I use it on my log house but the sides that get a lot of sun exposure need a fresh coat every 2 to 3 years.

BrianM
12-18-2006, 09:28 AM
My ski partner is a very well respected paint contractor in town. I just installed a new fir door and asked him what to do for finish. He said that he has the best results on all hardwood doors with Man-O-War Urethane Spar Varnish. It won't yellow and holds up to the elements. He said that it should last for years with no maintenance. I did my door with 3 coats of this on the exterior. Looks awsome. The only thing is it has to dry 24 hrs between coats. Door has only been up for 6 months but looks like the day it went up. Only time will tell how it holds up.

Ric
12-18-2006, 11:51 AM
good winter thread!
the door on my new-to-me place is solid wood but I don't know what kind of wood
genius P.O. decided painting the door BLACK would be low maintenance.... can I strip off the black with say, some aircraft stripper, and refinish this door or is it a loss?

Slinkyredfoot
12-18-2006, 12:40 PM
Nah, no loss, some real friendly to use stripper is available at the local hardware store. Get the low odor stuff, some of this stuff can make you see peacocks on your back deck if you sniff to much of it.
Apply the stuff with a brush roller whatever and let it set. It will take the paint right off, may take two applications.

Ric
12-18-2006, 12:49 PM
Nah, no loss, some real friendly to use stripper is available at the local hardware store. Get the low odor stuff, some of this stuff can make you see peacocks on your back deck if you sniff to much of it.
Apply the stuff with a brush roller whatever and let it set. It will take the paint right off, may take two applications. ahhahahah skidog has obviously gotten hold of that aircraft stripper we used to use to remove paint when building hotrods

Leroy
12-30-2006, 12:00 PM
I took the easy way out for now, teak oil! I'll see how this holds up and may go to spar varnish next.

André
12-30-2006, 12:02 PM
Nice colours!!!:D

ski_king
12-30-2006, 12:07 PM
Very Nice!
Got any before pictures?

Slinkyredfoot
12-30-2006, 12:36 PM
Nice job Leroy, you are now invited to come to my house and do a couple of doors for me

Leroy
12-30-2006, 01:24 PM
Just let me know when, I can do windows also, did ours yesterday! Building up my honey do points, never know when you may need them!

Nice job Leroy, you are now invited to come to my house and do a couple of doors for me

Slinkyredfoot
12-30-2006, 01:39 PM
yea the honey do's are almost like a bank account, you put nothin' in you can't take anything out