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View Full Version : Another winterizing debate...dry vs wet..and fogging block...


RobertT
11-28-2006, 02:18 PM
First, I know there is a ton of info on this somewhere, but what is the general consensus on storing your boat dry vs antifreeze.

Draining the two plugs on my block and the manifold hose takes all of two minutes. Adding antifreeze to the mix is a pain. Plus, the way I look at it, if it gets cold enough antifreeze can actually cause freezing problems. Even if you buy the good stuff (-40) it has to be slightly diluted and can therefore freeze if you live in Antarctica. But...for the rest of us...why on earth do it other than for corrosion protection?

Based on that theory, it would be MUCH easier to simply spray a shot of fogging oil into the block drain holes therefore theoretically giving protection to most of it. I don't know, just a thought.

I just don't want to have to do the antifreeze thing. Ever. I decided to keep my boat on the lift in the winter, and want to be able to take it out for a cruise at a moments notice. Draining takes two minutes, antifreeze takes ten times that long.

Thoughts?

88 PS190
11-28-2006, 02:31 PM
Antifreeze is preverable, corrosion protection, and to prevent a pocket of water from existing anywhere and destroying your engine.

If you drain thorougly then go for it...

our lake freezes solid and will drag a lift out and break it when it starts moving... surprised you don't freeze up?

RobertT
11-28-2006, 02:43 PM
It does freeze up, nobody takes their lifts out of the water nor their docks. Ever. No problems that I know of.

However, I am planning on buying a bubbler this year...just for peace of mind.

bigmac
11-28-2006, 03:40 PM
The "good stuff" antifreeze is -100, not -40, and has corrosion inhibitors, whereas the "regular stuff" is -50 and is designed for drinking water systems in RVs.

When I used the -50 stuff, I drained the block afterward and was comfortable in knowing that there was antifreeze in all the low spots. This year my dealer filled it with the -100 stuff and I'll leave it undrained. That way all I have to do in the spring is just put it in the lake and start it up.

A lake freezing in Missouri is different than a lake freezing in Minnesota. Here, it will get more than 2 feet thick and no lift or dock will stand up to that once that sheet starts shifting.

east tx skier
11-28-2006, 03:42 PM
Garaged in Texas and don't use antifreeze. Just drain and pull it over a few hills.

RobertT
11-28-2006, 04:18 PM
I feel pretty good about it really. I also have a magnetic heater that keeps the block warm on it just for fun.

My biggest question was if fogging oil or something similar that can be applied in seconds would help with corrosion issues.

Is corrosion over the winter really an issue?

Bruce
11-28-2006, 04:33 PM
What,s a bubbler? Also I a am not familiar with a magnetic heater , Can you fill me in ? I am facing the same dilema as you. It,s in the lift and I don't want to do the whole winterizing deal since we can go from the low 20,s to 70,s in a couple or so days. 99Maristar 230VRS open cooling. I am putting on a flushpro this week so I can at least run it some during the winter. (while I am at it I,m putting on a water strainer as well)

etakk7
11-28-2006, 04:39 PM
BigMac, where do you get your -100 antifreeze and how much more does it cost per gallon? Is it safe to flush into the lake on the first ride of the season?

bigmac
11-28-2006, 04:44 PM
BigMac, where do you get your -100 antifreeze and how much more does it cost per gallon? Is it safe to flush into the lake on the first ride of the season?

Antifreeze at West Marine (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearchView?catalogId=10001&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchallpartial&keyword=antifreeze&Ntt=antifreeze&N=0&storeId=10001&Ntk=All_2&ddkey=SiteSearch)

It's propylene glycol - environmentally safe to run into the lake.

RobertT
11-28-2006, 04:58 PM
Do a search for magnetic block heater. I found one on ebay for a few bucks.

http://www.tigerboatdocks.com/noice.htm

Bruce
11-29-2006, 01:07 PM
Looks like we might drop into mid twenties in a few days. If I put a halogen light in the engine compartment aimed at the engine would that be enough? I would leave the eng. cover up about a ft. Any safety issues? Certainly I understand how long the temp. is down is a factor. (1999 Maristar 230 VRS)

east tx skier
11-29-2006, 01:19 PM
Starting tomorrow night, it's looking like sub freezing nighttime temps for the next five days, but not freezing during the day. If it's me, I'm draining the block. If you lose power, you lose the light.

beef
11-29-2006, 01:29 PM
If you do go with a light, I would recommend NOT using a halogen. Way to hot - a definite fire hazard. I've used a regular 60w bulb and that generates plenty of heat under the engine box for an overnight temperature dip. Also, If you have a heater, you should blow out the lines.

sanjuan23
11-29-2006, 01:35 PM
Quick question about the light under the house though. Should one be concerned about the gas fumes on my carb'd boat and electricity. Just a thought. Then again that might take care of the cracks.....

Bruce
11-29-2006, 01:40 PM
Thanks 60watt it is . Don't have a heater. Hate to drain block when it will not be cold for long.
East tx fortunately we are not going to get hard freeze and as such we should not loose power. However, your point is well taken. I'm sure there will be a time I have to drain it. At this point I don,t even know where the drain plugs are .Guess I will have to learn soon. Only had the boat about three months so no cold weather experience.

jenglin
11-29-2006, 01:46 PM
I ran -40 antifreeze through mine the other night and did not drain it. I figured if the water is mixed with the antifreeze it should not freeze. Please Please let me know if I'm doing more harm then good. I'm a first time MC owner and don't want a 3,000lbs paper weight come spring. Thanks

RobertT
11-29-2006, 02:55 PM
For those that have not winterized their boats yet, unless I missed something it takes less than 120 seconds. Small price to pay for peace of mind.

A crecent wrench to unscrew two bolts, and undo a regular hose connection like you have outside your house.

Seriously, by the time you run a cord to your boat you can have it drained properly and be safe.

I bought a heater still, just because....it was ten bucks on ebay.

It was just like this one...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KATS-Magnetic-heater-KATS-magnum-300-watts-new-block_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50466QQihZ016QQit emZ260057809826QQrdZ1

bcampbe7
11-29-2006, 03:07 PM
For those that have not winterized their boats yet, unless I missed something it takes less than 120 seconds. Small price to pay for peace of mind.

A crecent wrench to unscrew two bolts, and undo a regular hose connection like you have outside your house.

Seriously, by the time you run a cord to your boat you can have it drained properly and be safe.

I bought a heater still, just because....it was ten bucks on ebay.

It was just like this one...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KATS-Magnetic-heater-KATS-magnum-300-watts-new-block_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50466QQihZ016QQit emZ260057809826QQrdZ1


120 seconds is forever! If it took like 2 minutes, or so, I might think about it... :rolleyes:

I drain and fog, but don't add coolant. My garage is heated and insulated.

phecksel
11-30-2006, 12:59 PM
I ran -40 antifreeze through mine the other night and did not drain it. I figured if the water is mixed with the antifreeze it should not freeze. Please Please let me know if I'm doing more harm then good. I'm a first time MC owner and don't want a 3,000lbs paper weight come spring. Thanks
did you drain the water out first? If not, it might be ok, or it might not. It's only a few thousand dollars to replace the engine. I drain and/or blow all the lines out, then run 50/50 antifreeze through the system, then drain that out. Mixed feelings on the second draining, as it now exposes the system for potential rusting. As someone said earlier, it take 120 seconds to drain the block, not like it's 2 minutes of your time, LOL. Heaters and showers add little more time to the process. Takes me approximately 90 minutes to do full winterization, including fogging, general cleanup, oil change, etc. My baby gives me too much pleasure to not treat her properly :)

jenglin
11-30-2006, 01:40 PM
I ran 5 gallons of anti-freeze through it. When I disconnect the hoses and open the drain plugs on the block, all that drains out is anti-freeze, so I thought I should be ok. Should I go ahead and drain it a second time. Please let me know what you think.

Bruce
11-30-2006, 06:53 PM
I trust everyone knows that antifreeze is a generic term. No blue or green stuff in those GM engines or you will do more harm than good.! (that of course does not include old engines)

phecksel
11-30-2006, 07:47 PM
I ran 5 gallons of anti-freeze through it. When I disconnect the hoses and open the drain plugs on the block, all that drains out is anti-freeze, so I thought I should be ok. Should I go ahead and drain it a second time. Please let me know what you think.
Holy crap, I use two gallons of anti-freeze mixed 50/50 for 4 gallons total.

I'd say you're fine!

east tx skier
11-30-2006, 08:43 PM
Sitting here glad that I don't have to think about what kind of antifreeze to use. Drained her and drove her around. 32 outside, and I'm sound as a pound.

bigmac
12-01-2006, 07:44 AM
I trust everyone knows that antifreeze is a generic term. No blue or green stuff in those GM engines or you will do more harm than good.! (that of course does not include old engines)

Why? What do you think would happen?

Bruce
12-01-2006, 12:12 PM
Dex Cool is designed to prevent electrolysis between unlike metals in the engine. I.E. aluminum and cast iron etc. GM is very adamant about this in their automotive engines so I can only assume that is the case with marine engines. If not no harm no foul. If I am right perhaps it will save someone a problem down the road.