View Full Version : pulling pylon ?

11-23-2006, 11:41 AM
I'm trying to pull a pylon out of an 83 SS, loosened u-clamp and set screws at base of pylon and it won't budge. sprayed penetrating oil around base and let sit overnite. Tried turning it with large pipe wrench with a cheater bar and it still won't move. It is rusty at the base. Any tips would be helpful.

11-23-2006, 12:35 PM
I'm not sure if yours is like mine but I had two big u-bolts to undo in order to get it out. You mention removing one u-bolt. Is it possible there is another one?


11-23-2006, 02:09 PM
There are two u-bolts. One is loosened from the engine compartment. You can get to the other one from the bilge access plate.

11-23-2006, 02:49 PM
I suspect that's what's going on. I can't see any way that the bar could be stuck if both u-bolts are undone.


11-23-2006, 03:07 PM
Here is a cutaway of a 83.
Looks like 2 U bolts
If yours is a early 83 it will like the 82's and be a little different. Seems to me my 82 has a few set screws on the bottom.

11-24-2006, 11:15 AM
I have an early 83 no bilge pump access. I only have one set of u-bolts . I think its siezed up going through steel angle iron just below floor. I have all kinds of corrosion on pylon around floor as it passes through steel ( dissimilar metals). angle has a 2" ring welded to it so I guess my corrosion is also that thick. I've chipped away at corrosion to top of angle, still won't budge. May have to drill between steel (through corrosion) and pylon to get some space between them. Any more advice?

11-24-2006, 01:34 PM
Not sure what to recommend other than lots of penetrating oil and tapping with a hammer, every few days.

Or as a last resort lift the floorboard and remove the bracket.

Why are you taking it out?

11-24-2006, 08:12 PM
king thanks for the info!

Bruce Carr
11-27-2006, 12:43 PM
Does your '83 have wood stringers and a plywood floor? The early 83 models were wood and the later ones had the composite construction as shown in the cutaway picture in the previous post.

The reason is that the wood version of the boat has only one U-bolt,at the upper end of the pylon mount. The lower end of the pylon sits in a steel "cup" which is bolted through the hull with bolts common to the forward most tracking fin. The fiberglass boats have two U-bolts.

I refurbished my '83 SS last winter (wood version) and I now am very familiar with the pylon installation as well as replacing the floors, etc.

While I had the floors out, I too, tried to remove the pylon from the steel support structure which is lag bolted into the stringers. It was (is) common for the aluminum pylons to exhibit galvanic corrosion where the pylon comes in contact with the steel support structure. In my case it was impossible to remove the pylon itself so I removed the pylon and angle iron support from the boat altogether (removed the lag bolts from the stringers and pulled the entire assembly out of the boat) and used a cutting torch to cut away enough of the 2" ring you mentioned. I then rebult the angle iron support with a new ring and added additional flanges onto the support in order to add more lag bolts attaching the supports to the stringers.


11-27-2006, 09:43 PM
bruce, thankyou for the reply! I have a wood floor ,not sure about my stringers but I'll take your word for it. You pretty much somed up the problem I'm having. I think I'll put the set screws back in and tighten up the u-bolt and wait for the pylon to snap ( I don't think it will). I only wanted to take it out to check on the corrosion from the disimilar metals. The pylon was is solid and was never loose I was just trying to keep alittle problem from growing.

01-02-2007, 09:59 PM
i had the same problem with my 78 .drilled around the pylon and kept pouring the pen. oil to it.finally took the torch to it and turned it out.