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View Full Version : Gauges - some pegged, some at zero


wesgardner
11-19-2006, 04:45 PM
Hey All,

Yesterday while I was winterizing, I shut the engine down to hook up the antifreeze rig to the Flush Pro, when I went to restart the engine, with the key in the "on" position I noticed the oil pressure and temp gauge pegged (these two gauges are grouped togther on a small sub-panel), the volt meter and fuel gauge read zero and all of the main panel switches (blower, heater fan, stereo head unit) wouldn't work. The engine cranks and runs fine. The "new" circuit with its own dedicated pos and neg works fine. If you turn the key off, the gauges do all go to their normal "nothing" reading, but as soon as the key is switched to "on" the oil pressure and temp gauge peg....

Seems like some kind of weird ground issue...anyone care to take a stab at where I should start looking?


Wes

TMCNo1
11-19-2006, 05:30 PM
Wes, sometime hook up with this guy, I believe y'all have simular boats and he is having rpm problems and I think is running the wrong prop. I gave him a link to you too. Link, http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=269057&postcount=1


I wish I could help on the gauges, sorry. What do the gauges do when the boat is running? Are they operating OK then?

wesgardner
11-20-2006, 10:22 AM
Have responded with my prop size and WOT....

No worries on the gauges, seems I have all winter to sort it out.

The gauges peg whether running or not...in fact that's what first got my attention, while running in the antifreeze I looked over and saw the temp gauge pegged!!

I thought I recalled a similar issue but searched and couldn't find the thread...

Anyone wanna join in?

DrNautica
11-20-2006, 10:32 AM
On the surface, I would suspect a poor ground. Check the main negative from Battery to engine first and continue from there.

cwright
11-20-2006, 11:13 AM
Wes, I had similar behavior from my guages in my 88PS190 this summer and finally tracked it down to a broken ground link on a daisy chain. Pull your dash, create the pegged guages, and then reach in and jiggle wires. I suspect you'll find the culprit and then you'll know where to direct you attention. Good luck and let us know what you find.

wesgardner
11-20-2006, 11:35 AM
I guess I have to bite the bullet...all of my gauge panels have cracked around the mounting screws due to age so while I'm making new panels, I might as well re-wire the dang thing....my inclination is to pull in a new ground wire and create a proper ground buss, sorta like I did for my key switch's positive wire (10 gauge - fixed a whole lot of starting/solenoid eating issues)

I did this for my ballast system and stereo amps on both the pos and neg side and of course, they work great....


Wes

jrcarte78
12-12-2006, 05:58 PM
I guess I have to bite the bullet...all of my gauge panels have cracked around the mounting screws due to age so while I'm making new panels, I might as well re-wire the dang thing....my inclination is to pull in a new ground wire and create a proper ground buss, sorta like I did for my key switch's positive wire (10 gauge - fixed a whole lot of starting/solenoid eating issues)

I did this for my ballast system and stereo amps on both the pos and neg side and of course, they work great....


Wes

Wes, sorry for the threadjack(sort of)... This is one of my two winter projects as well. Not necessarily re-wiring, but replacing the plastic switch panels that are cracked/broker around the screws. I was wondering what you were planning on using to replace these panels?

I've been looking around. I think I'm going to try and use some plexi that I've found at Lowe's. It's about 1/8'' thick--seems pretty sturdy and should be fairly easy to work with. I was planning on priming and painting with gloss black paint. I thought this idea was pretty good,:o but was looking for another opinion or other options.

Was wondering what you had in mind?

J.R.

JKTX21
12-12-2006, 07:25 PM
Bump and a gauge question.

Long story short, I have eventually discovered that my oil pressure gauge, battery gauge and more than likely my water temp gauges are reading low.... average 20 PSI (hard gauge reads 60+ on startup), less than 13 volts (brand new alternator) and about 130 degrees respectively.

I'm assuming there is a lose or bad ground somewhere in the dash. Has anyone had any experience with this?

And oh yeah, my boat is an optimist when it comes to fuel... always half full. Any suggestions on where to start on this faulty gauge? Thanks

Monte
12-12-2006, 08:40 PM
Wes, sorry for the threadjack(sort of)... This is one of my two winter projects as well. Not necessarily re-wiring, but replacing the plastic switch panels that are cracked/broker around the screws. I was wondering what you were planning on using to replace these panels?

I've been looking around. I think I'm going to try and use some plexi that I've found at Lowe's. It's about 1/8'' thick--seems pretty sturdy and should be fairly easy to work with. I was planning on priming and painting with gloss black paint. I thought this idea was pretty good,:o but was looking for another opinion or other options.

Was wondering what you had in mind?

J.R.


Sorry for the threadjack sorta.2
Im replacing my entire guage panel and switch panel, I've found a few on ebay that I like (switch panels that is) have yet to pull the trigger.. as far as the guage panel I just dont like the old graphic so Im going to remove it and take it to a weld/ machine shop and have a piece of either diamnd plate or brushed aluminum made to fit.

JKTX21
12-14-2006, 09:51 PM
Bueller?.... Bueller? My gauges are broke!

jrcarte78
12-15-2006, 02:13 PM
Bump and a gauge question.

Long story short, I have eventually discovered that my oil pressure gauge, battery gauge and more than likely my water temp gauges are reading low.... average 20 PSI (hard gauge reads 60+ on startup), less than 13 volts (brand new alternator) and about 130 degrees respectively.

I'm assuming there is a lose or bad ground somewhere in the dash. Has anyone had any experience with this?

And oh yeah, my boat is an optimist when it comes to fuel... always half full. Any suggestions on where to start on this faulty gauge? Thanks

My fuel gauge has 3 positions. Full, 1/2, and empty. I always assumed it was the sending unit. I have the floor boards out now(to re-carpet) and am planning on replacing the sending unit while they're out. Not for sure if that's the culprit, but I'm gonna give it a shot. Plus, they're fairly cheap.

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=153260

J.R.

JKTX21
12-15-2006, 04:08 PM
http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=12760&highlight=fuel+sender

Here is a post I found relating to my issues as well. Thanks JimN for all the replies.

wesgardner
12-17-2006, 07:49 PM
Hey All,

Yup I'm well into the gauge cluster panel renovation/replacement. I've completed the top two which house the fuel and volt meters, the other one houses the oil pressure and engine temp... the tach came next and I got as far as the panel with 4 breakers, four rocker switches and the speedo. The rocker switches are somewhat old, one fell apart in my hand, another was really corroded - you get the picture - I found what I think are direct replacements - http://www.racersrvstuff.com/racersrv/details.php?ITEM=3640400 (search and you'll find just ON-OFF versions as well)
These have a small round indicator light in the middle that changes color when turned on...
The breakers - E-T-A #1658 can be found but I can't locate the small rubber top that makes them "waterproof" - if anyone has a spare from a panel rebuild project, let me know.

J.R. -
Here's some info on my ballast control panel - I'll be using the same "plastic" for the gauge cluster panels - it's about 1/8" thick and is somewhat plyable so I'm hoping it won't crack (hasn't yet)
http://tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=7031&highlight=ballast+switch
I am pulling in a new 10 gauge negative wire direct from the engine block to replace the existing one - this seems to fix all the reported gauge anomolies. My last search for a method of labelling I think turned up to be a "P-touch" or something similar that prints WHITE lettering on clear tape - I'll have to follow that up...

Lemme know if this stuff helps

Have a great holiday season (snowboard waxing in prpgress as we speak/type)

WTRSK1R
12-17-2006, 08:45 PM
Wes,
I may have one at home, but I am on the road for work right now. I had to replace one of the breakers on my prior boat, and the new breaker came with the boot and since the thread was different I had to use the new boot even though it was ever so slightly larger then the original. I do not remember if I saved the old boot, but since I am a huge pack rat, it is probably in one of the drawers in my toolbox at home. I will check when I am home in a couple of days and PM you if I still have it. Hopefully I do, and you only need one.

Steve

wesgardner
12-18-2006, 10:05 AM
Steve,

Thanks for looking...

I've still not had any luck on the web...the search continues...

jrcarte78
12-19-2006, 06:07 PM
Thanks for the info Wes. I think I'm going to use the plexi found at Lowe's to redo mine. Hopefully it will turn out as well as your ballast switch panel turned out. :)

West Marine also has a variety of rocker switches. They seem to be a bit more $$ than the ones you found though.

I was going to take my current panel to a friend of mine who does vinyl and have him match the font for the labeling. Hopefully he'll be able to do all the labels for real cheap.

J.R.

Chief
12-19-2006, 07:09 PM
Wes, sorry for the threadjack(sort of)... This is one of my two winter projects as well. Not necessarily re-wiring, but replacing the plastic switch panels that are cracked/broker around the screws. I was wondering what you were planning on using to replace these panels?

I've been looking around. I think I'm going to try and use some plexi that I've found at Lowe's. It's about 1/8'' thick--seems pretty sturdy and should be fairly easy to work with. I was planning on priming and painting with gloss black paint. I thought this idea was pretty good,:o but was looking for another opinion or other options.

Was wondering what you had in mind?

J.R.

If you are going to make your own with the plexi the look for the carbon fiber tape to cover the plexi, that will look sweet. The paint will look like crap in a season or two.

Chief
12-19-2006, 07:12 PM
Hey All,

Yesterday while I was winterizing, I shut the engine down to hook up the antifreeze rig to the Flush Pro, when I went to restart the engine, with the key in the "on" position I noticed the oil pressure and temp gauge pegged (these two gauges are grouped togther on a small sub-panel), the volt meter and fuel gauge read zero and all of the main panel switches (blower, heater fan, stereo head unit) wouldn't work. The engine cranks and runs fine. The "new" circuit with its own dedicated pos and neg works fine. If you turn the key off, the gauges do all go to their normal "nothing" reading, but as soon as the key is switched to "on" the oil pressure and temp gauge peg....

Seems like some kind of weird ground issue...anyone care to take a stab at where I should start looking?


Wes

Look at the sensor's, they may and inadvertantly had the wires broken or maybe making poor contact. Those two sensors use the block as the ground or the ground for the gauges may have corroded on the ground termination block under the dash. Hope this helps.

jrcarte78
12-20-2006, 10:19 AM
If you are going to make your own with the plexi the look for the carbon fiber tape to cover the plexi, that will look sweet. The paint will look like crap in a season or two.

Cool. Where can I get some carbon fiber tape?? :D

J.R.