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blackbeauty02
11-14-2006, 12:53 AM
...i was told on here before to use 15W40 pennzoil marine oil available at Wal-mart but all they have is 10W40. I called a local mastercraft dealer and they don't have 15W40 and they told me to run 10W30 and my friend told me he runs 25 weight in his boat (but it's a mercruiser). does anyone know what exactly I should use? I am going to spend the whole day tomorrow winterizing my boat (I know I waited until the last minute). Should I just go with what the mastercraft dealer says? they said that there was really no oil specified for the later models. also about how long should this take? i printed off a checklist of everything needed to be done. i plan on changing the oil, pulling the plugs, stablizing the fuel, and using the fogging oil. is there anything i missed and is it just a matter of pulling the four plugs and driving around to get all the water out and it's done? (I'm not putting antifreeze in, doesn't get very cold in OKlahoma)

blackbeauty02
11-14-2006, 12:57 AM
this is what i have from a website
http://wakeboardnj.com/winterize.htm

I just started thinking. do I need a fake-a-lake in order to do this? it says several times to warm up boat to operating temp.

blackbeauty02
11-14-2006, 01:01 AM
oh and if there are any steps in that site that i should just skip please let me know. i know this list is a bit overkill. i'm pretty much just doing what it says for the engine.

edwinfuqua
11-14-2006, 01:09 AM
What boat do you have ?

east tx skier
11-14-2006, 01:10 AM
Did you look in the marine section at walmart? That's where it should be. If not, several people on here use the Rotella 15W40.

The one thing you didn't mention is to spin the engine over (kill switch pulled) to get the water out of the pump housing.

Good luck.

edwinfuqua
11-14-2006, 01:11 AM
Just a quick suggestion, take it to your dealer and have them do it.

edwinfuqua
11-14-2006, 01:12 AM
That's a good point!!!!

Jesus_Freak
11-14-2006, 05:37 AM
do I need a fake-a-lake in order to do this? it says several times to warm up boat to operating temp.

Yes, you will need to warm your engine, but east tx skier (I think he is the originator) came up with a concept that is far surperior to the "fake-a-lake" design. You will have to find the thread somewhere on here.

dog paw
11-14-2006, 09:21 AM
If not, several people on here use the Rotella 15W40


Ditto that.

etakk7
11-14-2006, 10:16 AM
I used Rotella T 15W40 also. Got it all Wal-Mart. I would suggest going to a Checker or Napa auto parts or equivalent if Wal-Mart doesn't have what you need.

east tx skier
11-14-2006, 11:05 AM
Yes, you will need to warm your engine, but east tx skier (I think he is the originator) came up with a concept that is far surperior to the "fake-a-lake" design. You will have to find the thread somewhere on here.

I appreciate the credit, but I can't take credit for it.

5 gallon bucket
a few feet of clear, flexible pvc hose
ball valve for garden hose.


Or just pull your raw water hose from the hull attachment point and drop it in a bucket of water fed by the hose.

blackbeauty02
11-14-2006, 12:12 PM
What boat do you have ?

i have a 92 prostar 205

rspiecha
11-14-2006, 01:40 PM
Valvoline 15w-40. Ran it for years in my 1994 Prostar205. Changed at end of season. Recent compression check by dealer on boat showed 175 psi across all cyclinders.

Rob

Davo
11-14-2006, 04:54 PM
5 gallon bucket
a few feet of clear, flexible pvc hose
ball valve for garden hose.

Or just pull your raw water hose from the hull attachment point and drop it in a bucket of water fed by the hose.
I rigged one up similair to this, but just straight ran a garden hose with valve attached to flex pvc hose that gets jerry clamped onto the fresh water intake hose. Yeah, it leaked a little. lol

For oil I was using the Rotella 15-40...now I use the Castrol 15-40. I can't really tell a difference in the two, but figured Castrol made a better product than Shell....probably 6 and 1/2 dozen the other.

TRBenj
11-14-2006, 06:04 PM
For oil I was using the Rotella 15-40...now I use the Castrol 15-40. I can't really tell a difference in the two, but figured Castrol made a better product than Shell....probably 6 and 1/2 dozen the other.

I have read that Rotella T and Valvoline Racing oil both contain additives like zinc that are important for older, flat tappet camshaft motors (like my Ford 351w). Both oils have very good reputations- I use the Rotella-T 15w40.

Castrol also makes a very good oil- I use GTX 5w30 in my car. I change it every 5k miles, 245k and going strong.

FWIW, I have not heard great things about Pennzoil or Quaker State.

Davo
11-15-2006, 09:34 AM
I have read that Rotella T and Valvoline Racing oil both contain additives like zinc that are important for older, flat tappet camshaft motors (like my Ford 351w). Both oils have very good reputations- I use the Rotella-T 15w40.

Castrol also makes a very good oil- I use GTX 5w30 in my car. I change it every 5k miles, 245k and going strong.

FWIW, I have not heard great things about Pennzoil or Quaker State.
Thanks for the input, TRBenj.

bigmac
11-15-2006, 09:42 AM
I have read that Rotella T and Valvoline Racing oil both contain additives like zinc that are important for older, flat tappet camshaft motors (like my Ford 351w). Both oils have very good reputations- I use the Rotella-T 15w40.

Castrol also makes a very good oil- I use GTX 5w30 in my car. I change it every 5k miles, 245k and going strong.

FWIW, I have not heard great things about Pennzoil or Quaker State.

If zinc were truly an important additive, then all the oil mfgrs would put it in, or it would be part of the new car warranty requirements and would in turn be reflected in the API specs for that service classification. Instead, zinc, molybdenum and about a half-dozen other such metals have formed part of the basis for today's crop of snake-oil aftermarket oil additives like Slik 50. These silly scams have been with us since the classic huckster Andy Granatelli figured out that the American public was gullible enough to buy STP by the carload.

Marketing. That's the only significant difference between major oil brands. All the oils listed above are good oils, none have any advantage over the others. Rotella T, Pennzoil Marine/Diesel, Valvoline, Mobil Super Delvac 1300, Quaker State (which owns Pennzoil BTW), Castrol....buy whichever is most readily available to you and/or is on sale at the moment.

TRBenj
11-15-2006, 10:59 AM
If zinc were truly an important additive, then all the oil mfgrs would put it in, or it would be part of the new car warranty requirements and would in turn be reflected in the API specs for that service classification.

How many motors today are produced with flat tappet cams?

Bigmac, clearly Im not the oil expert that you are, but there seems to be a lot of independant information out there that claims the reduction in certain oil additives can contribute to premature camshaft failure. Articles like this one (http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech/) in Hot Rod.

Ive read the same argument on numerous discussion boards- not in marketing material. Are you saying this argument has no basis?

bigmac
11-15-2006, 12:29 PM
How many motors today are produced with flat tappet cams?

Bigmac, clearly Im not the oil expert that you are, but there seems to be a lot of independant information out there that claims the reduction in certain oil additives can contribute to premature camshaft failure. Articles like this one (http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech/) in Hot Rod.

Ive read the same argument on numerous discussion boards- not in marketing material. Are you saying this argument has no basis?

I'm not necessarly saying it has no basis, I'm just saying that I'm inclined to strongly suspect it has no merit. Like many such arguments, especially in the oil industry, a theoretical argument gets way over-extended and the marketing guys get ahold if it. I'm saying the argument of reduced extreme-pressure additives like zinc, molybdenum, or phosphorous compounds effect on flat-tappet camshaft lobes likely has no practical basis when applied to consumer-level engines on the road or on the water using current S-rated lubricating oil. This is all pretty slippery data. A magazine like Hot Rod makes statement about "a lot of flat-tappet camshaft failures lately" and all of a sudden we all make that assumption? Where's the data? Anecotes from internet discussion groups? Hmmm...

Regardless, ALL of the current 15W40 Marine oils are C-rated (current API service classification for these oils is CI-4/SL) and that designation is based on the warranty specs from the big diesel mfgrs like Caterpillar, Cummins etc. As a result, those C-rated oils such as are recommended for todays inboard boats and under discussion here DO contain extreme-pressure additives and are entirely suitable for flat-tappet engines like the 351W.

Davo
11-15-2006, 02:47 PM
After reading that Hot Rod article (much of which was beyond my comprehension..lol), I'm leaning toward going back to the Rotella.