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h2oskier
10-26-2006, 11:31 PM
Winterization has been completed, I think. Here are the things that I did and would like to have more experienced people give me some feedback. Please let me know if I missed anything. This is my first time winterizing an inboard.

2003 Prostar 209 MCX engine. Boat stored in garage with a small heater for the dog.

-- Changed the oil and filter. Used Rotella 15-40 and a Wix filter.
-- Fogged engine. Removed air cleaner and sprayed fog in throttle body until smoke seen in exhaust.
-- Sprayed a little more in throttle body without engine running.
-- Drained the block and manifolds by doing the following.
-- Pulled the impeller cover off.
-- Pulled the water hose leading away from the impeller.
-- Pulled the fat water hose on the front driver side of motor.
-- Disconnected the hose connecting the manifolds in the rear of engine.
-- Found only one drain plug for the block. Passenger side of motor. The only thing on the driver side is the knock sensor.
-- I am going to drive around for 15-20 min in attempt to get more water out.

Have I missed anything? :confused:

Thanks in advance!

dmayer84
10-26-2006, 11:34 PM
Winterization has been completed, I think. Here are the things that I did and would like to have more experienced people give me some feedback. Please let me know if I missed anything. This is my first time winterizing an inboard.

2003 Prostar 209 MCX engine. Boat stored in garage with a small heater for the dog.

-- Changed the oil and filter. Used Rotella 15-40 and a Wix filter.
-- Fogged engine. Removed air cleaner and sprayed fog in throttle body until smoke seen in exhaust.
-- Sprayed a little more in throttle body without engine running.
-- Drained the block and manifolds by doing the following.
-- Pulled the impeller cover off.
-- Pulled the water hose leading away from the impeller.
-- Pulled the fat water hose on the front driver side of motor.
-- Disconnected the hose connecting the manifolds in the rear of engine.
-- Found only one drain plug for the block. Passenger side of motor. The only thing on the driver side is the knock sensor.
-- I am going to drive around for 15-20 min in attempt to get more water out.

Have I missed anything? :confused:

Thanks in advance!

The knock sensor is there in place of the drain plug, take it out to drain that half of the block.

JimN
10-26-2006, 11:42 PM
Remove the knock sensor- that is your other plug. Any plugs removed from the motor or the hull should be put in a zip-lock bag and hung from the throttle with a wire-tie. That way, you'll see them when you get into the boat and they won't wander off. Also, attaching them to the steering wheel can leave grooves in the padding. Print your list of any annual service tasks, leave spaces to check off what has been done every year it and keep it in a place where you can refer back to it. Drain the oil cooler, remove the impeller and crank the motor over for a few seconds to clear the circulating pump. If you have a heater, blow low-pressure compressed air through it to clear the water and run anti-freeze through it. Go to the black box for the gauges, remove each speedo line and blow air through them, too. Water in the ballast will crack it and when you go out next year, the water will go right into your bilge. If you have the paddle-wheel speed sensors, don't worry about them.

pflcjl
10-27-2006, 07:17 AM
while the block is draining, use a wire to clear any debris in the engine block. Apply white grease around the threads of the knock sensor and drain plugs before you re-install. Duck tape your exhaust flaps shut to avoid any rodents from climbing inside. Remove battery and charge occasionally throughout the off season.

H20skeefreek
10-27-2006, 07:23 AM
His boat is going to be in the garage with the dog, the dog will take care of any rodents.

Make sure you pull that knock sensor! You could just get an engine compartment heater, then you wouldn't have to winterize at all and could still use it on those freakishly warm days.

I noticed you didn't mention any fogging oil in the cylinders, many people do that.

TMCNo1
10-27-2006, 08:04 AM
Don't forget to put on a good set of snow tires!

bigmac
10-27-2006, 08:25 AM
You already have the RW pump cover off, time to consider what you're going to do with the impeller. Some people pull it and leave it out at the beginning of the winter and put a new one in in the spring, some pull it and replace it now, some don't replace it at all. I'd pull it now and replace it in the spring along with a new gasket and a generous slathering of food grade silicone oil. SkiDim's prices on that 812 impeller are competitive and last time I bought one from them they sent along a little packet of that lube. You might consider buying a few extra of those soft brass cover plate bolts (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=68-5005)at the same time in case you snap one.

Put a battery maintainer (float charger, not trickle charger) on the battery and leave it on all winter. You don't have to remove it, or even disconnect it from the boat.

If you have a heater, don't forget to disconnect one or both lines and blow air through it or pump RV antifreeze through it.

airwear
10-27-2006, 09:57 AM
Anyone know where I find food grade silicone oil? Who makes this stuff?

east tx skier
10-27-2006, 11:08 AM
Anyone know where I find food grade silicone oil? Who makes this stuff?

3M makes some marine grade silicone available at WalMart.

Two things, as JimN mentioned, spin the engine with the kill switch removed. I'd do this before you remove the impeller though so there's something in there to kick the water out.

Check the screen on your transmission cooler for debris. I change my transmission fluid annually as well.

And, very important omission, top of the list, stabilize your fuel. I do this first so when I'm warming the boat up, the stabilized fuel can get everywhere it needs to be.

The winterization checklist I use is available for download here (http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=103139&postcount=6). Our engines are different, but the procedure is essentially the same.

bigmac
10-27-2006, 12:45 PM
Anyone know where I find food grade silicone oil? Who makes this stuff?I bought a 6-oz bottle somewhere online. I'll have to look around to find where.

Johnson makes a pump lube that's the same stuff, specifically for their impellers. SkiDim has it, I think...

east tx skier
10-27-2006, 12:52 PM
Sorry, I misread the silicone oil post. The Johnson lube stuff big mac mentioned is great. It's glycerine, which I believe is the same as KY (Yes, I said Johnson lube and KY in the same sentence. Get over it :)).

JimN
10-27-2006, 12:54 PM
bigmac- look in your nightstand.:D

G-man
10-27-2006, 12:58 PM
Scuba shops have food grade silicone but I doubt there much diving going on this time of year.
Anyone know where I find food grade silicone oil? Who makes this stuff?

bigmac
10-27-2006, 01:07 PM
:D bigmac- look in your nightstand.:DJim, what is Astroglide made of?:D

east tx skier
10-27-2006, 01:15 PM
"Astroglide consists of purified water, glycerin, propylene glycol, polyquaternium 15, methylparaben and propylparaben."

That stuff is like one stop shopping for winterization?

LakePirate
10-27-2006, 01:35 PM
Can I get a 5 gallon bucket of astroglide please..

east tx skier
10-27-2006, 01:37 PM
Can I get a 5 gallon bucket of astroglide please..

and 10,000 marbles.

http://www.joblo.com/newsimages1/floundergeek.jpg

H20skeefreek
10-27-2006, 02:13 PM
3M makes some marine grade silicone available at WalMart.

Two things, as JimN mentioned, spin the engine with the kill switch removed. I'd do this before you remove the impeller though so there's something in there to kick the water out.

Check the screen on your transmission cooler for debris. I change my transmission fluid annually as well.

And, very important omission, top of the list, stabilize your fuel. I do this first so when I'm warming the boat up, the stabilized fuel can get everywhere it needs to be.

The winterization checklist I use is available for download here (http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=103139&postcount=6). Our engines are different, but the procedure is essentially the same.
I think the stuff at Walmart made by 3m that you would be refering to is silicone sealant, this would NOT be what you want!! Just use some KY.

beef
10-27-2006, 02:31 PM
Use the "warming" type to extend your season!

atlps190
10-27-2006, 02:52 PM
Use the "warming" type to extend your season!

That knocked me off my chair!!!:D