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View Full Version : 25th Anniversary (1993) S&S Info


mayo93prostar
10-23-2006, 02:04 PM
I bought a 1993 25th Anniversary Stars and Stripes 351 HO Powerslot, metalflake blue and I have a few questions about this model. 1. Were all of them powerslots? 2. Did all have HO engine? 3. How many were made? I have had a 82 s&s and a 87 ps190, both slots. This 93 is the best though. Love mastercraft! (pic attached, first post, be gentle)

pq2
10-23-2006, 02:30 PM
WOW, thats a very nice boat, congrats.

pq2
10-23-2006, 02:31 PM
post more pics of it

DooSPX
10-23-2006, 02:31 PM
wow!
im jealous...

LakePirate
10-23-2006, 02:35 PM
Sweet ride. Welcome.

BrianM
10-23-2006, 02:58 PM
The S&S was an option in '93. If I remember correctly it was about a $600 option for the color scheme. They could be ordered with any combination of engine, transmission and other options. No idea how many were made but not a whole lot due to the relatively high cost of the option.

east tx skier
10-23-2006, 03:05 PM
Like Brian said, in 93, the S&S was an optional package. It ran in the neighborhood of $700 and was available through July 1993. Main stripe color options were red or blue metalflake. Most had matching red or blue carpet (although some had grey). Most of the ones I've seen are 1:1. I've also seen a few with LT1. I believe that a fair number were produced. A few come up for sale every year (more blue ones than red ones for whatever reason) and will get a bit above NADA. There are the rare few that will get closer to original price paid than NADA, too.

I'll bet the farm that G-Man can give you a very close production estimate.

As others have said, nice boat!

mayo93prostar
10-23-2006, 05:19 PM
Thank you all that have responded so far. The pic is not the best since I had to cut the size down to upload. I bought this boat this past August and I skiied behind it once and it has a very small wake. It only has 325 hours. I have the problem with the motor box hinges pulling out of the floor because of the honecomb floor panel. Any recommendations on how to fix other than replace with plywood will be appreciated.

east tx skier
10-23-2006, 05:26 PM
Here's what I did with mine. With your rear seat remeoved, unscrew the floor panel and slide the motorbox and panel forward slightly so that you can fold your panel up and see where the screws have pulled through (you can take them both out of your boat, but trust me, this is easier). Get a thin piece of wood (or aluminum) (about 2" wide) cut to go all the way across the floor panel. I used wood. Figure out where to drill for the bolts and drill some holes in your wood strip. You may need longer bolts depending on the thickness. Put your bolts through this and reattach the locknuts (with some better washers than stock). I did this last year and have had no further problems.

stevo137
10-23-2006, 06:26 PM
I hear that those are perhaps the best looking boats that MC produced and you need to see them in person to appreciate. ;)
I also heard that the production was 100 of each color.
Congrats on your great find and enjoy!

Farmer Ted
10-23-2006, 08:09 PM
I hear that those are perhaps the best looking boats that MC produced and you need to see them in person to appreciate. ;)
I also heard that the production was 100 of each color.
Congrats on your great find and enjoy!


I hear you'd know!

Ben
10-24-2006, 12:46 PM
Here's what I did with mine. With your rear seat remeoved, unscrew the floor panel and slide the motorbox and panel forward slightly so that you can fold your panel up and see where the screws have pulled through (you can take them both out of your boat, but trust me, this is easier). Get a thin piece of wood (or aluminum) (about 2" wide) cut to go all the way across the floor panel. I used wood. Figure out where to drill for the bolts and drill some holes in your wood strip. You may need longer bolts depending on the thickness. Put your bolts through this and reattach the locknuts (with some better washers than stock). I did this last year and have had no further problems.

Great plan. Depending on how messed up / weakened the honeycomb floor is, you may want to rotate the floor piece 180 & drill new holes. This way, the bad part is under the seat or by the fuel tank (if seat removed). This way, you get a nice new section of floor to start with, definitely using the wood/alum piece & bigger washers....

east tx skier
10-24-2006, 01:05 PM
Great plan. Depending on how messed up / weakened the honeycomb floor is, you may want to rotate the floor piece 180 & drill new holes. This way, the bad part is under the seat or by the fuel tank (if seat removed). This way, you get a nice new section of floor to start with, definitely using the wood/alum piece & bigger washers....

Another good idea. The size of the original washers is definitely the problem. They just don't spread the pressure exerted out sufficiently enough. The only problem I can see with turning it around is that the honeycomb aluminum floorboard might be a little dicey to drill through. Even then, I'd get something to really spread the load out so you don't pull the screws through.