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shepherd
10-23-2006, 11:58 AM
OK, some of you guys talked me into restoring my boat instead of selling it. Now you must suffer through my restoration diary. First step was to replace the upholstery and carpet. Here's a few "Before and After" pics.

Before:

shepherd
10-23-2006, 11:59 AM
After........:

sanjuan23
10-23-2006, 12:00 PM
Looks Great!

shepherd
10-23-2006, 12:00 PM
Side Panel Before...............

shepherd
10-23-2006, 12:01 PM
Side panel after. (I will be replacing that steering wheel)

LakePirate
10-23-2006, 12:04 PM
That looks great.

shepherd
10-23-2006, 12:05 PM
I'm in the process of buffing the gel coat right now, finished the front deck and starboard side hull last night. Going to do some more today. I'll post before and after pics here when its done.

I'm using the properboatcare.com kit pictured here and bought a Vector circular buffer from them as well. It's working great and real easy with the circular buffer. Thanks to Bump for giving me info and inspiration: http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=3167&highlight=orbital

BTW, anybody know of a good cleaner that will easily remove pinstripe tape residue? I tried alcohol and nail cleaner remover and some old car bug and tar remover, but it's not working too easily, the stuff just gums up and still sticks to the hull.

thijs
10-23-2006, 12:06 PM
That is so worth the money. I think you could sell the boat for more now than what you would have asked before, to the point it would have covered the cost of reskinning.

(Although we all know it isn't going up for sale NOW)

Looks great!!!!!!!!!

shepherd
10-23-2006, 12:12 PM
Thanks! Notice that the "After" pics are in the garage? I told the wife that's where she's going to stay for now on! (the boat that is) ;)

DooSPX
10-23-2006, 12:13 PM
looks great! keep up the good work.. and keep up on giving us photos

east tx skier
10-23-2006, 12:40 PM
Looks great, Shep!

BrianM
10-23-2006, 12:45 PM
BTW, anybody know of a good cleaner that will easily remove pinstripe tape residue? I tried alcohol and nail cleaner remover and some old car bug and tar remover, but it's not working too easily, the stuff just gums up and still sticks to the hull.

I've had really good results with Goof Off. Won't harm the gel and gets the residue off. Smells like oranges.

thijs
10-23-2006, 12:51 PM
What is the condition of your engine and drive train? What about your carpet?

Do you have any plans in these areas?

What are all these restorations costing you as you go?

shepherd
10-23-2006, 01:10 PM
Engine and trans are in good shape - the boat runs strong and has the powerslot. I've got a minor smoking problem that probably indicates a carb rebuild is in order (I hope) - mixture screws don't seem to be working.

I'll also be refurbishing or replacing the trailer, which is in really rough shape.

New upholstery and carpet cost $2900, which included taxes and replacing some rotten wood. Seemed high compared to others who posted here, but it was the cheapest of the 3 local estimates I got.

Gel coat kit and circular buffer cost me $237 from properboatcare.com, including tax and shipping.

Hunterb
10-23-2006, 01:43 PM
The restoration looks great!! I completed a full resto on the same year and model a couple of years ago. You should be able to remove the pin stripe glue with Acetone. It won't hurt the gel-coat. Also, if buffing will not bring the colour back like you want it, don't be afraid to wet sand the boat. It's lots of work, but the results are awesome.

Good luck with the project.

Bruce

TMCNo1
10-23-2006, 03:07 PM
Sheperd, man that looks great!

6ballsisall
10-23-2006, 03:10 PM
Looks GREAT Shep!!!!!!!!!!! Can't wait to see more pics!

bcampbe7
10-23-2006, 03:49 PM
Wow! Thanks looks great Shep. :cool:

justinlkgb
10-23-2006, 03:52 PM
Do you do house calls? My o my that turned great. More pics:guitar:

TMCNo1
10-23-2006, 05:47 PM
Now if someone would just help Skidog get his boat into shape for the Southern Reunion! :D

BriEOD
10-23-2006, 07:32 PM
I have that gel restoration kit and it works miracles.

Shep did you do that upholestry and carpet yourself?

shepherd
10-23-2006, 07:43 PM
I had a local shop do the upholstery and carpet for me. Figured it was a little beyond my abilities. The gel coat kit is great, but the key was getting the circular polisher IMO. There's no way my old orbital polisher would bring the shine out like I've gotten with the circular...

BriEOD
10-23-2006, 07:54 PM
I had a local shop do the upholstery and carpet for me. Figured it was a little beyond my abilities. The gel coat kit is great, but the key was getting the circular polisher IMO. There's no way my old orbital polisher would bring the shine out like I've gotten with the circular...
I think I have that same polisher. Just a suggestion, I would use wax and not that liquid sealer in the kit after you use the oxidation remover. That liquid sealer on the circular polisher goes EVERYWHERE!! It makes a mess. If you don't get it off immediately it dries and is difficult to get off. I gets all over the trailer, the floor of the garage, etc. Use something else...trust me.

Do you mind me asking what you paid for the carpet/upholestry and labor?

shepherd
10-23-2006, 09:52 PM
Thanks for the tip Brian. I'll get a good paste wax instead. Any recommendations? How about Meguiars?

I got 3 quotes for the interior. The winning quote was $2500 -- after tax and replacing a few pieces of rotted wood in the side panels, the total came out to $2900. I've seen a few people on TT get it done for less, but I'm really limited on who I can go to in this area.

Linkster
10-24-2006, 02:59 AM
Fantastic job!

Are there any secrets to using that gel coat kit besides using a wax paste? With buffing out the gel coat - is this a weekend job? How many hours should I plan on devoting? Do you have to be pretty careful around the decals? I may just get that same kit!

shepherd
10-24-2006, 11:07 AM
Fantastic job!

Are there any secrets to using that gel coat kit besides using a wax paste? With buffing out the gel coat - is this a weekend job? How many hours should I plan on devoting? Do you have to be pretty careful around the decals? I may just get that same kit!

It's not really a secret, but make sure you get a circular buffer that is capable of at least 2500 rpm. The Vector machine I got from properboatcare was cheap at $70 and works great. The other ones I looked at were around $200.

I've been doing mine a few hours a day so it's taking a little while. Expect to spend 8 - 10 hours total(?). You just need to use lighter pressure around the decals, no problem at all.

shepherd
10-24-2006, 11:07 AM
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

87MC owner
10-25-2006, 10:56 PM
Have you found that the kit you purchased is better than buying the components seperately? I have used everything i can think of on my hull and it is taking a very long time to get the red back to red and not purple.

shepherd
10-25-2006, 11:59 PM
I haven't bought the components separately before, so I can't say. The kit is great because it comes with all you need. I just finished buffing the hull and deck tonight, I just need to hand buff a few areas that the machine wouldn't reach, then seal/wax it all.

Here's a pic from when I was midway through the starboard side, showing the difference. It took very little effort to bring back the color with the circular polisher.

I'm going to try to find some touch up paint to hide that big scratch - it's pretty deep. I decided I'm going to replace that pinstriping also.

thijs
10-26-2006, 12:41 PM
That is inspiring!

pilot02
10-26-2006, 01:19 PM
I'm in the process of buffing the gel coat right now, finished the front deck and starboard side hull last night. Going to do some more today. I'll post before and after pics here when its done.

I'm using the properboatcare.com kit pictured here and bought a Vector circular buffer from them as well. It's working great and real easy with the circular buffer. Thanks to Bump for giving me info and inspiration: http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=3167&highlight=orbital

BTW, anybody know of a good cleaner that will easily remove pinstripe tape residue? I tried alcohol and nail cleaner remover and some old car bug and tar remover, but it's not working too easily, the stuff just gums up and still sticks to the hull.

Try the "Ultra Citrus" Orange air freshener in the pump can from walmart. We used it for removing shelf tape all of the time.

shepherd
10-28-2006, 08:59 PM
Finally finished buffing and waxing the gel coat today. Here are a few more pics.

Before.....

shepherd
10-28-2006, 09:00 PM
After... :)

I'll be talking to a graphics guy next week about new "Prostar 190" decals

shepherd
10-28-2006, 09:01 PM
Before......

shepherd
10-28-2006, 09:02 PM
After.........

shepherd
10-28-2006, 09:03 PM
Front deck before....

shepherd
10-28-2006, 09:05 PM
Front deck after....

As you can see, I still need to replace the pinstriping. I need to paint my air vents still and put them back on. And I'm going to replace the rubrail insert.

TRBenj
10-29-2006, 01:37 PM
Wow, it looks great- nice job!

Id love to hear how hard it is to redo the pinstriping when you get to it. Im afraid if I were to redo mine it would be hard to keep straight and end up looking wavy.

bigmac
10-29-2006, 03:06 PM
Thanks for the tip Brian. I'll get a good paste wax instead. Any recommendations? How about Meguiars?



Meguiars is good wax, but I'm not sure I'd give up on sealants.

Sealants vs wax (http://properboatcare.com/cawavsgelcos.html)

The stuff BriEOD is talking about sounds like a hassle indeed, but consider RejeX (http://www.corrosionx.com/rejex.html) - I've been pretty impressed with it on my boat, applying it after scrubbing the old wax off with Slimy Grimy. It definitely simplifies getting water spots off the gelcoat.

T Scott
10-29-2006, 03:51 PM
Sheperd,
The boat looks great!! Nothing quite like sweat equity. When are you going to get to those fenders??

DooSPX
10-29-2006, 05:16 PM
wow! nice job Sheperd....

shepherd
10-29-2006, 06:10 PM
Wow, it looks great- nice job!

Id love to hear how hard it is to redo the pinstriping when you get to it. Im afraid if I were to redo mine it would be hard to keep straight and end up looking wavy.

Thanks. I'm hoping the pinstriping won't be too difficult. They actually follow the border between the red and white portions of the hull so I can just use that as a guide to keep me straight.

As for wax vs. sealants, I went ahead and used the liquid sealant that came with the kit, but I applied it by hand. It wasn't too hard and I didn't have to worry about splatter from the machine. I too was concerned that a regular wax wouldn't "seal" the gel coat. I'll probably follow up with a good carnauba wax after everything is done.

The fenders are coming Tom! I want to completely refurbish the trailer after I'm done with the boat -- sandblast, paint, LED lights, new wheels. We'll see... but at the very least I'll be buffing out the fenders and replacing the lights.

BriEOD
10-29-2006, 07:09 PM
Thanks. I'm hoping the pinstriping won't be too difficult. They actually follow the border between the red and white portions of the hull so I can just use that as a guide to keep me straight.


It is not difficult. It re-did mine 2 years ago. Take your time and be patient.

T Scott
10-29-2006, 07:27 PM
Thanks. I'm hoping the pinstriping won't be too difficult. They actually follow the border between the red and white portions of the hull so I can just use that as a guide to keep me straight.

Pinstriping is relatively easy. The trick is to do about 1-2 feet at a time. Have fun with it! Worst case scenario, it is a little wavy and you have to peel it off and start again. Heck, the stuff is only $5 bucks a roll. Experiment a bit until you get it right.

Good Luck!

TMCNo1
10-29-2006, 08:13 PM
Pinstriping is relatively easy. The trick is to do about 1-2 feet at a time. Have fun with it! Worst case scenario, it is a little wavy and you have to peel it off and start again. Heck, the stuff is only $5 bucks a roll. Experiment a bit until you get it right.

Good Luck!


Please don't try to apply tape stripes a couple feet at a time as you WILL get waves in it, always pull it in long lengths slightly stretching it like a chalk line to keep out waves, then go back with a damp towel to tack it down followed up by a squeegie to set it. Once you lightly lay it down for the first time, don't look at it from the side @ a 90 deg angle, look at it from bow to stern and stern to bow to see if it is staight. I've been applying decal, tape stripes and hand painted pinstripes for 35 years.

shepherd
10-29-2006, 08:33 PM
Thanks for the advice TMCNo1! I'll do exactly what you said. I assume that regular automotive pinstripe tape (like they sell at Pep Boys) will work. If for some reason I'm mistaken, please let me know.

Just finished buffing and sealing the dash tonight. No pics yet (too dark).

TMCNo1
10-29-2006, 09:17 PM
Thanks for the advice TMCNo1! I'll do exactly what you said. I assume that regular automotive pinstripe tape (like they sell at Pep Boys) will work. If for some reason I'm mistaken, please let me know.

Just finished buffing and sealing the dash tonight. No pics yet (too dark) but here's a "before shot."


Use Pledge Furniture Polish on the black fiberglass and apply heavy every couple weeks or Liquid automotive spray wax on a rag to apply, then buff with a micro fiber towel.

The original vinyl tape stripes were manufactured by Sharpline Automotive Appearance Products, deck stripe 1/4" [1 color] 150' roll and hull stripe 1/4"+1" combo [2 color] 60' roll. It has a clear film over the stripe that has to be removed after application, then cleaned with solvent to remove residue. Check around town at sign shops and body shops to see where the buy their stripes wholesale locally and they can probably hook you up with Sharpline or you can try to Google. It is not the cheap striping tape you can buy locally at auto parts or Wal-Mart, it is 2 mil cast vinyl and good stuff with premium adhesive for obvious reasons. I got with our boat in '89, a roll of each kind for replacement purposes over the years, but there is no address on the boxes, sorry. If I find any info I'll pass it along to you.
EDIT, go to www.sharpline.com and it is the company, Sharpline Converting Inc. I have e- mailed them for some info, I'll keep you posted. In the mean time, you contact then thru their site contact link for a retailer near you.

Another tip, before you start laying down some $$ colored tape, go to the local hardware and buy a couple rolls of cheap $1, 3/4" masking and experiment with laying down the long stretched stripes first. You won't regret it and you will see what I mean about not having any waves, just take your time!
Any place you are going to apply your permanent tape stripes, wipe it down good with denatured alcohol prior to application to remove any wax, silicones, oils, etc and run a tac rag over the area to remove any lint or debris that will show up under the tape. Any other questions, just pm me, I'll be glad to help.

JohnnyB
10-30-2006, 07:54 PM
I haven't bought the components separately before, so I can't say. The kit is great because it comes with all you need. I just finished buffing the hull and deck tonight, I just need to hand buff a few areas that the machine wouldn't reach, then seal/wax it all.

Here's a pic from when I was midway through the starboard side, showing the difference. It took very little effort to bring back the color with the circular polisher.

I'm going to try to find some touch up paint to hide that big scratch - it's pretty deep. I decided I'm going to replace that pinstriping also.

You might be able to carefully wetsand the "insides" of that scratch and get it to match. It will still be indented but should be able to be sanded to a gloss...

Hoosier Bob
10-30-2006, 08:29 PM
Nice job Shep! Looks Awesome. So far you have a new interior, the out side looks great and you have retaken Man's land! Park that crap out side! The garage is for bikes and boats! Now trade that Harley in on a Valk and all will be right in the universe!:D
Great pics and nice thread!
HB

shepherd
10-30-2006, 09:35 PM
Not sure about that Harley/Valk trade HB... but I did consider trading in my Harley, my old Formula boat, and this PS 190 for a newer model PS190/197. Maybe in a year or two... :rolleyes:

Meanwhile, I'm still working on this one. I only managed to paint the airvent grills tonight. Used this satin black "rust preventive" paint after I quickly sanded them and washed them in warm soapy water. Hopefully it will hold up.

shepherd
10-30-2006, 09:36 PM
I may use the same paint to touch up the many scratches I have in my windshield frame. I'll probably buff the frame out before I touch it up. The color restorer seems to work easily on that...

(***before and after pics on page 10)

Hoosier Bob
10-30-2006, 09:40 PM
I remember years ago when my brother and myself were restoring old T/A,s that the window trim was treated much the same. The paint you have chosen should be fine but we used and do not quote me, Zinc Chromate? I believe we had it in cans and from the local Dupont, Amerflint and Imron suppliers. This was in the early eighties! I'll keep working on the Harley trade!

shepherd
10-31-2006, 01:13 PM
I used Meguiar's Color Restorer to hand buff the dash area. Then followed up with the properboatcare.com sealant. Again, I'll follow up with wax when I'm done with all the gel coat polishing, decals, and pinstripes. The dash still has several scratches that wouldn't buff out easily with the color restorer. Maybe wetsanding would help?

Here's the after pic of the dash. Also added a new mirror from Rambo Marine.

shepherd
10-31-2006, 01:15 PM
Once again, here's the dash before. STill looking for a new steering wheel. Any suggestions on where I can get one? I already checked with BAWS, Liquid Sports, and Rambo... (actually, BAWS is still checking for me I hope).

shepherd
10-31-2006, 01:17 PM
Here's a shot of the "Prostar 190" decals I need to replace. Anybody have a graphics file of this? I got one from Hunterb (thanks!), but it's different.

Edit: looks like I need to do a little more buffing back there too :cool:

Monte
10-31-2006, 01:33 PM
Once again, here's the dash before. STill looking for a new steering wheel. Any suggestions on where I can get one? I already checked with BAWS, Liquid Sports, and Rambo... (actually, BAWS is still checking for me I hope).

I could be wrong, but I think the steering wheel is interchangable with a car? Three bolts... You should be able to grab one (Grant comes to mind) at the nearest autozone, advance auto, western auto, etc.... If it doesn't work you can always return it....

loeweb
10-31-2006, 03:18 PM
looks great shep. does your circular buffer look like a heavy duty angle grinder? just wandering, I have a buddy w/ one i think and wouldn't want to buy one if i could borrow for beer if you know what i mean.

shepherd
10-31-2006, 03:46 PM
It looks like an angle grinder, but not sure it's the same thing. You can see a picture of mine on the first page of this thread, post #7. It's the Vector buffer pictured here http://www.properboatcare.com/prcihsppopaa.html for $69.95, which is very cheap compared to other brands. Whatever you use, I recommend it has a speed control. I used mine at 2000 rpms for general buffing, 2500 rpms for tough spots, and you're supposed to use 1000 or 1500 rpms for general polishing/waxing.

M-Funf
10-31-2006, 04:17 PM
You'll want to be very careful when using a high-speed buffer on any surface. Practice on something you don't care about first...

I haven't tried a high-speed buffer on my boat, but on my cars, I only use the Porter-Cable orbital. Anything else requires a very delicate touch and lots of experience so you don't damage the surface.

You should be able to rent either of these at your local rental place if you only do this once a year...either that or borrow one from a buddy for a six pack :cool:

bigpack20
10-31-2006, 04:26 PM
WOW! the boat is looking great. I cant wait to see more pics.

SD190EVO
10-31-2006, 04:31 PM
Very very nice! The vinyl looks great.

viabill
10-31-2006, 05:24 PM
Hey Shep,
I think Grant makes the identical steering wheel. I was looking in a Jeg's catalog (hi-perf car parts) and saw a wheel that looks just like to one in my boat ('89 Tristar), and should be same as yours. The wheel was around $40, if I recall correctly.
If you don't have a Jeg's catalog, try jegs,com.

viabill
10-31-2006, 05:29 PM
Yeah, I just went to Jegs.com and looked. It's a Grant Challenger, part no. 470-414.

shepherd
10-31-2006, 05:54 PM
You'll want to be very careful when using a high-speed buffer on any surface. Practice on something you don't care about first...

I haven't tried a high-speed buffer on my boat, but on my cars, I only use the Porter-Cable orbital. Anything else requires a very delicate touch and lots of experience so you don't damage the surface.

You should be able to rent either of these at your local rental place if you only do this once a year...either that or borrow one from a buddy for a six pack :cool:

I thought the same thing M-F. But then I read this from the properboatcare.com web site:
"We recommend using a professional circular polisher to restore and maintain gel coat (Fiberglas) finishes. Unlike delicate automotive clear coats, the gel coat finish on your boat is exceptionally tough and very resistant to damage. Even the first time user can safely use a circular polisher to remove oxidation (chalky dullness) and restore a glass-like shine."

I found this statement to be true. As a "first time user" I was impressed how easy the job was with the buffer. I kept the speed to 2500 rpm maximum and only had to apply light pressure to the surface to get the color to come out.

[Disclaimer :cool: : I'm not associated with properboatcare.com in any way, but was just led to them by others who have posted on this forum. While I am completely satisfied with their products, I'm sure there are other similar products out there that will do just as good.]

M-Funf
10-31-2006, 06:02 PM
I thought the same thing M-F. But then I read this from the properboatcare.com web site:
"We recommend using a professional circular polisher to restore and maintain gel coat (Fiberglas) finishes. Unlike delicate automotive clear coats, the gel coat finish on your boat is exceptionally tough and very resistant to damage. Even the first time user can safely use a circular polisher to remove oxidation (chalky dullness) and restore a glass-like shine."

I found this statement to be true. As a "first time user" I was impressed how easy the job was with the buffer. I kept the speed to 2500 rpm maximum and only had to apply light pressure to the surface to get the color to come out.

[Disclaimer :cool: : I'm not associated with properboatcare.com in any way, but was just led to them by others who have posted on this forum. While I am completely satisfied with their products, I'm sure there are other similar products out there that will do just as good.]

That's good to know...I'm thinking about going over my boat to bring back the color this winter or next spring...I guess I need a new power tool for Christmas :cool:

TMCNo1
10-31-2006, 07:14 PM
Hey Shep,
I think Grant makes the identical steering wheel. I was looking in a Jeg's catalog (hi-perf car parts) and saw a wheel that looks just like to one in my boat ('89 Tristar), and should be same as yours. The wheel was around $40, if I recall correctly.
If you don't have a Jeg's catalog, try jegs,com.


I got a exact replacement Grant steering wheel at Advance Auto Parts for $38 + tax when mine started peeling paint when boat was 1 year old. Grant said it was because I had used ArmorAll on the rubber and the spokes and it caused the paint to release from aluminum spokes.

shepherd
10-31-2006, 08:50 PM
Yeah, I just went to Jegs.com and looked. It's a Grant Challenger, part no. 470-414.

I got a exact replacement Grant steering wheel at Advance Auto Parts for $38 + tax when mine started peeling paint when boat was 1 year old. Grant said it was because I had used ArmorAll on the rubber and the spokes and it caused the paint to release from aluminum spokes.

Well, whattayaknow??? After reading viabill's post, I stopped by Pep Boys this evening and they had the same steering wheel :)

Exact match no?

Thanks guys! That's one reason why I started this thread. I knew there was a lot of knowledge out there that I could tap into. I probably never would have started this project without the info and support I get from TeamTalk.

shepherd
10-31-2006, 08:53 PM
A few turns of the wrench, replace the "GT" decal with the "MC" (of course :) ) and VOILA... Took me 10 minutes.

Note to self: no Armor All on the steering wheel
Hmmm, looks like I need to try to find some new rocker switches for my instrument panel...

BrianM
10-31-2006, 08:59 PM
Hmmm, looks like I need to try to find some new rocker switches for my instrument panel...

You are not going to be able to find exact match switches. Just wipe some 303 on those switches and they will look 200% better. The switches on my '88 looked like that and with the 303 looked almost new.

Nice job on the new wheel by the way.

#47of100TeamMC
11-01-2006, 08:28 AM
Front deck after....

As you can see, I still need to replace the pinstriping. I need to paint my air vents still and put them back on. And I'm going to replace the rubrail insert.

Have you replaced the rubrail yet? I've got a proposal for ya... I know a guy who makes an LED lighted rubrail. He just so happens to be one of the partners at the Patent Law Firm I'm employed at... He has the patent on the LED lighted rubrail and is marketing it to Jen-Mar. I'm trying to get him to put one on my bote and I could be a walking bilboard for him. Only problem is that I don't need a new rubrail. anyway, if your interested, I could look into it for ya. maybe we could get a 2-for 1 deal.

shepherd
11-01-2006, 08:47 AM
Thanks #47, but I'm going to pass. Sounds like a cool idea for someone who wants to do some customizing. But I'm going to try to keep the boat as original as possible. The only customizing I'm going to do is the sound system. Plus, I rarely take my boat out at night.

I'd sure like to see pictures of the system once it's installed on a boat. I'd like to look at the patent too. You got a patent # for it?

TMCNo1
11-01-2006, 10:45 AM
A few turns of the wrench, replace the "GT" decal with the "MC" (of course :) ) and VOILA... Took me 10 minutes.

Note to self: no Armor All on the steering wheel
Hmmm, looks like I need to try to find some new rocker switches for my instrument panel...


Sweet! Looks great!

thijs
11-04-2006, 10:30 AM
Happy Birthday Shepherd,

Did you get anything for your boat???

shepherd
11-04-2006, 11:12 AM
Happy Birthday Shepherd,

Did you get anything for your boat???

Thanks! As a matter of fact, momma bought me an Alpine CDE-9852 head unit, with the iPod connector :headbang:

Now I wonder how she knew I wanted one of those??? :rolleyes:
Also got a portable DVD player - I guess I can use that on the boat, right???

thijs
11-07-2006, 12:14 PM
I would love one of those. I am a big Alpine fan. I think they offer some of the best power/pre-out options. Plus all the ones I have had are still running. One is about 10 years old. Anything else dies or starts skipping after a year.

Cudos to Alpine for teaming up with iPod. I have an iPod video that I would love to control directly from the deck without having to use FM radio stations which decrease overall sound quality and volume.

shepherd
11-09-2006, 11:06 AM
I'd like to get your opinions on this. The decal shop sent me proofs of my new decals. Here are the big "Mastercraft" decals that will go on the sides. I like the one on top better, with the black shadow, but the original decal that was on the boat had the red shadow as shown on the bottom.

Should I go with the black shadow or the original red shadow design? I want to keep the boat close to original, but the two-tone red design doesn't look nearly as good IMO.

What do you all think?

Tryin-again
11-09-2006, 11:16 AM
I'd like to get your opinions on this. The decal shop sent me proofs of my new decals. Here are the big "Mastercraft" decals that will go on the sides. I like the one on top better, with the black shadow, but the original decal that was on the boat had the red shadow as shown on the bottom.

Should I go with the black shadow or the original red shadow design? I want to keep the boat close to original, but the two-tone red design doesn't look nearly as good IMO.

What do you all think?

Personally I like the Black Shadow.....:cool:

bcampbe7
11-09-2006, 11:27 AM
Personally I like the Black Shadow.....:cool:

x2..................

TRBenj
11-09-2006, 11:51 AM
The black shadow looks better- the reds blend together too much. Id make the shadow color match the pinstripe you plan to put on.

loeweb
11-09-2006, 12:17 PM
I also like the black shadow. Can't hardly see the red on red. IMHO

shepherd
11-09-2006, 12:54 PM
The black shadow looks better- the reds blend together too much. Id make the shadow color match the pinstripe you plan to put on.

Actually, the original pinstripes were a dark blue for some reason as you can see on page 4 of this thread (maybe not original?). I'm thinking about maybe going with black pinstripe. Then the black shadow decal would match good.

M-Funf
11-09-2006, 01:01 PM
My question is: How original are you trying to keep the boat?

I like the black shadow myself, but if you're really spending the time and money, and EVERYTHING else is exactly original, you should go with the red...

TMCNo1
11-09-2006, 01:09 PM
If you go with the black stripe [not original], I would go with the lettering with a small black outline around the letters and a thicker offset black shadow. IMO.
The original decals on your boat had a screen printed blue ink offset shading and it apparently wore off over the years, it was not originally red/red, see post #29, you can see the color difference in the decals, where it was printed, otherwise the color red would be solid all across the decal. I have a 1990 brochure with a PS190 on the cover with your color combo and the decals are red with the blue offset and blue upper and blue/silver lower stripes. The transom decals were solid white with no additional color. Since you have no blue in the interior you can change to black without messing up the color combo and it would really look nice and detailed that way. I never understood why they used the blue to start with.

shepherd
11-09-2006, 09:07 PM
Harold,

I'll take your word for it, but I see absolutely no blue in the decals. It looks like red-on-red to me. But I was wondering why they had blue pinstripe. And my decal guy was wondering why they would put red on red like that :confused:

Would you happen to have a color scanner so I can see what you're talking about in the brochure? Does the blue in the decal offset match the blue in the pinstripe?

shepherd
11-09-2006, 09:10 PM
My question is: How original are you trying to keep the boat?

I like the black shadow myself, but if you're really spending the time and money, and EVERYTHING else is exactly original, you should go with the red...

Well, so far everything is exactly original except for the stereo head unit cut into the dash and the four speakers cut into the side panels. If they weren't there, I'd be even more adamant about keeping everything absolutely original.

TMCNo1
11-10-2006, 08:45 AM
Harold,

I'll take your word for it, but I see absolutely no blue in the decals. It looks like red-on-red to me. But I was wondering why they had blue pinstripe. And my decal guy was wondering why they would put red on red like that :confused:

Would you happen to have a color scanner so I can see what you're talking about in the brochure? Does the blue in the decal offset match the blue in the pinstripe?


I do have a scanner, but I don't yet know how to do it, sorry. The blue was the same in the MC decal as in the stripe or near it. Was the blue stripe metallic or just a solid blue. I remember them being a dark solid navy blue, not metallic.

jrcarte78
11-10-2006, 12:03 PM
shepherd, Looks great! If you ever turn around and sell it(gasp! :D ), I think you'll definitely get your moneys worth back out of it.

IMO the black shadowing looks awesome. I would definitely go for that look if I were in your position.

J.R.

loeweb
11-10-2006, 01:48 PM
shepherd, Looks great! If you ever turn around and sell it(gasp! :D ), I think you'll definitely get your moneys worth back out of it.

IMO the black shadowing looks awesome. I would definitely go for that look if I were in your position.

J.R.

I'll second that one!

TMCNo1
11-14-2006, 06:54 PM
Shepherd, here are your rear side decals, http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=267182&postcount=40

TMCNo1
11-17-2006, 11:55 AM
Shepherd, here is a site ETS posted that sells Sharpline and has a color/size chart for $3, http://www.stripeman.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Pin-Stripe+Rolls

TMCNo1
11-18-2006, 11:50 AM
Shepherd, I got my catalogue, color chart, and misc. from Sharpline today in the mail. They have about anything you could want and you will have a bunch of options!

shepherd
11-18-2006, 01:01 PM
Shepherd, I got my catalogue, color chart, and misc. from Sharpline today in the mail. They have about anything you could want and you will have a bunch of options!

Got mine last week. There are so many choices, but all I need are plain black and silver stripes. I'll be ordering from them next week. Thanks for your help on that!

Here's another question for you all. I was thinking about touching up my windshield frame (see page 6 of this thread) with the same paint I used on my air vents (see page 5). But the scratches are pretty extensive.

You think it would be worthwhile to mask the whole windshield, cover the boat and just spray paint the whole windshield frame? If so, any suggestions on prepping it?

TMCNo1
11-18-2006, 02:07 PM
Got mine last week. There are so many choices, but all I need are plain black and silver stripes. I'll be ordering from them next week. Thanks for your help on that!

Here's another question for you all. I was thinking about touching up my windshield frame (see page 6 of this thread) with the same paint I used on my air vents (see page 5). But the scratches are pretty extensive.

You think it would be worthwhile to mask the whole windshield, cover the boat and just spray paint the whole windshield frame? If so, any suggestions on prepping it?

I would find a paint that matches the closest and just do one panel first to see how it matches. You can fine sand the scratched areas, but do use a primer first on the exposed raw metal areas. However much you do paint, be sure to clean good with a prep solvent and use a tac rag on the areas to remove dust, etc. prior to priming and painting.

shepherd
11-25-2006, 12:03 PM
Finished painting the windshield frame. What a chore masking that sucker off! Here's a "before" shot.

shepherd
11-25-2006, 12:03 PM
Here it is masked off before the first primer coat.

shepherd
11-25-2006, 12:05 PM
I put three coats of black primer on it, followed by three coats of gloss black paint. Before the first coat of primer, I lightly sanded the frame with 400 grit sandpaper, then wiped it all off with alcohol.

Here's the finished product.

I only did the outside and top of the frame. The inside doesn't have many scratches and I'm going to just touch those up.

Footin
11-25-2006, 12:07 PM
Looks great!

Footin
11-25-2006, 12:11 PM
What brand of paint did you use?

bigpack20
11-25-2006, 12:14 PM
The boat looks great!

6ballsisall
11-25-2006, 01:27 PM
Very nice Shep!!!!!!!!:cool:

BriEOD
11-25-2006, 05:23 PM
Any easy way to touch up the inside Shep is to use a black paint marker.

shepherd
11-25-2006, 05:38 PM
I used Krylon gloss black. Actually, the finish isn't quite as good as I wanted it to be. If you look at it closely or at the right angle, you can tell it has been spray painted. It doesn't look as smooth and glossy as the original finish. But it's still a lot better than before.

mash
11-26-2006, 06:01 PM
The boat is looking good! I also like the black drop shadow.

Couple of questions -

How much of a hassle is it to remove the windshield to paint it? My frame need help too.

I noticed that MC sells decal sets and replacement skins for older models. Are they competitive on pricing?

shepherd
11-26-2006, 07:16 PM
I never thought about removing the windshield frame before painting it. I spent a lot of time masking it off -- probably 3 hours total prep time -- before I painted it. Even if I removed the windshield from the boat, I'd still have to mask off a lot of it unless I was going to remove the window panes from the frame. Just didn't want to mess with that.

You may have trouble finding the old decals and skins for the older boats. I had no luck and called a lot of dealers. You may get lucky with your boat though. I'm having the decals made from scratch at a local shop. It's not expensive and it looks like (from the proofs they gave me) they're doing a good job. I'll be picking them up this week.

Got the new pinstripes on today. I'll post some pics after I get the new decals on later this week.

shepherd
12-05-2006, 10:34 PM
In case you guys are interested, I got some pics of my new decal installation. First, I removed the old decals and buffed out the area as best as I could with the circular buffer. There was a little shadowing from the old stickers but you can only see it if you look close at the right angle. Here is the boat with side Mastercraft decals removed. Looks kind of naked doesn't she?

shepherd
12-05-2006, 10:36 PM
OK, installing the new decal using the method recommended by the decal shop. I taped up the new decal, trying to overlay it as closely as possible on the old decal's shadow. Then I separated each individual letter with a razor blade. Then I was able to squeegee down each individual letter while the blue tape kept them all lined up.

shepherd
12-05-2006, 10:38 PM
At this point, half the letters are squeegeed down. I did one letter at a time, removing the backing and carefully pressing it down on the boat with a small hard plastic "squeegee."

shepherd
12-05-2006, 10:40 PM
After getting all the letters down, remove the tape and top layer and here's the finished product. I took you guys' advice and decided on the red/black lettering. Looks good don't it?

shepherd
12-05-2006, 10:41 PM
Here's a "before" shot.

shepherd
12-05-2006, 10:42 PM
I did the same thing with the new "Prostar 190" decals. You can also see the new pinstriping in these shots.

Edit -- That's weird. The stripes in the "Prostar" word are actually horizontal - parallel to the "190" stripes. I wonder why the camera made them look diagonal. :confused:

shepherd
12-05-2006, 10:43 PM
Another "before" shot for comparison.

shepherd
12-05-2006, 10:45 PM
Total cost for the two "Mastercraft" decals and the two "Prostar 190" decals was around $70 with tax. I had to hire a local sign and car graphics shop to create them for me. If anybody would like a set, let me know. The shop said they are keeping the graphics files.

Farmer Ted
12-05-2006, 10:49 PM
Looks like you've got all your winter projects completed....


are you glad you didn't get rid of her?

shepherd
12-05-2006, 10:54 PM
Looks like you've got all your winter projects completed....


are you glad you didn't get rid of her?

Well, it's been a fun project, but she still ain't a new 190/197 ;) . And I'm not done yet. I've got a new rubrail on order and I'm going to refinish the swim platform, though it's in pretty good shape already.

Plus, as you can see, the trailer really needs help. That's my next project.

DooSPX
12-06-2006, 07:15 PM
it looks top notch shep! you are doing such a good job!!!

TMCNo1
12-06-2006, 08:05 PM
Shepherd, you've done a nice job. The decals look super and so does the striping, btw, how did the striping go. Just a little patience, right?

mash
12-06-2006, 09:17 PM
Good looking boat, Shepherd. Well Done! Really like those Decals.

shepherd
12-06-2006, 11:25 PM
Shepherd, you've done a nice job. The decals look super and so does the striping, btw, how did the striping go. Just a little patience, right?

Yeah, the striping took some patience. But it helped that I knew what to expect before I started so it kept the frustration level down a lot. Thanks for your guidance and advice with that Harold. The sharpline stripes are good quality product.

shepherd
12-06-2006, 11:26 PM
Any easy way to touch up the inside Shep is to use a black paint marker.

I still need to do this. I've never seen one of those markers. Who sells them?

Jesus_Freak
12-07-2006, 02:10 AM
Another "before" shot for comparison.

Dude, you did some seriously amazing work!

shepherd
12-07-2006, 08:55 AM
Thanks! I'm not done yet, but I'm really pleased with the way she's coming out. She won't win any "best of show" or "best of class" awards, but she's 200% better than she was when I started.

HdGPS190
12-07-2006, 10:41 AM
Great job. I've learned a great deal on Team Talk, but this post has been invaluable. You've inspired me to tackle my well worn 88 PS 190. Where are you getting your rub rail from?

TMCNo1
12-07-2006, 11:10 AM
I still need to do this. I've never seen one of those markers. Who sells them?
Black permanent markers, Sharpie (Various sizes), Marks-A-Lot, etc. work well for quick emergency use, for small knicks, screwheads, frame ends and the like, but large patches and deep scratches will require proper preperation and refinishing with a mix of paint between flat and semi-gloss or satin.

TMCNo1
12-07-2006, 11:21 AM
Thanks! I'm not done yet, but I'm really pleased with the way she's coming out. She won't win any "best of show" or "best of class" awards, but she's 200% better than she was when I started.


You never know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Some before pictures displayed at a Reunion will show people where it's been and it will not go unnoticed. I competed against a 1986 in 1996 that had never won an award, that was a total disaster for 2 years and in one year it won "1st in Class" and "Best of Show".

shepherd
12-07-2006, 12:42 PM
Great job. I've learned a great deal on Team Talk, but this post has been invaluable. You've inspired me to tackle my well worn 88 PS 190. Where are you getting your rub rail from?

I had a local boat parts store order one from this supplier: http://www.tacomarine.com/cat--Rub-Rail--rubrail.html

HdGPS190
12-07-2006, 12:51 PM
I had a local boat parts store order one from this supplier: http://www.tacomarine.com/cat--Rub-Rail--rubrail.html
Thank you.

thijs
12-07-2006, 12:57 PM
Great job. I've learned a great deal on Team Talk, but this post has been invaluable. You've inspired me to tackle my well worn 88 PS 190. Where are you getting your rub rail from?
You know it is a TT requirement that you document your restorations in a thread, right??? You just have to let us watch.

shepherd
12-07-2006, 01:26 PM
You know it is a TT requirement that you document your restorations in a thread, right??? You just have to let us watch.

That's what I thought ;)

Seriously, I've learned so much on this site, and especially from people's help on this thread, that I thought I should return the favor. Thanks to everyone. (plus I just like to show off! :D sorry Gene!)

Kevin 89MC
12-20-2006, 11:18 AM
Shepard . . . wow, wow, wow! :worthy: Your boat looks incredible! I can't wait until I can set the time (and money) aside to tackle mine. It's in about the same shape as yours was. Very nice work! Thanks for documenting your process, that will really help me down the road.
Kevin

shepherd
12-20-2006, 12:23 PM
You never know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Some before pictures displayed at a Reunion will show people where it's been and it will not go unnoticed. I competed against a 1986 in 1996 that had never won an award, that was a total disaster for 2 years and in one year it won "1st in Class" and "Best of Show".

Harold, I've seen pics of your boat and trailer. :cool:
My rig wouldn't stand a chance at any reunion that you attend. But I'd still like to participate in one some time in the near future. If I do, hopefully I'll see you there.

wesgardner
12-20-2006, 12:50 PM
BTW - I did find the exact match for the rocker switches, little red light and all - somewhere around $8.00 per...I'm making new gauge cluster panels as well....

Here's the link for the cheapest ones I've found, delivery was lightning quick...
http://www.racersrvstuff.com/racersrv/details.php?ITEM=3640370

As I'm going with ALL new switches, I'm not sure if the light color is an EXACT match but probably close - it IS the same rocker switch - if I recall, my lights glowed a bit yellow until switched "ON" and then they went to red...so if you're replacing just one switch, the light color might be a bit off??? The switches are sold/packaged by Sierra but are made by carlingswitch ...FWIW...

Now if I can find some of those push button breaker boots for the E-T-A #1658 breakers, I'll be set

TOO-TALL
12-21-2006, 12:40 AM
It's not really a secret, but make sure you get a circular buffer that is capable of at least 2500 rpm. The Vector machine I got from properboatcare was cheap at $70 and works great. The other ones I looked at were around $200.

I've been doing mine a few hours a day so it's taking a little while. Expect to spend 8 - 10 hours total(?). You just need to use lighter pressure around the decals, no problem at all.

WOW....I just found this post and have to say great job man.

My boat dosen't have the oxidation problem on it but, I would like to get a circular buffer to remove the wax after I put it on the hull.And thanks to this post I know which buffer to get...Thanks

Stritt
12-21-2006, 04:34 PM
Shepard. Thanks for the pictures. You have inspired me to do this to our Cobalt. Sitting down here in the Florida sun it is starting to show some oxidation. I just ordered the kit from Properboatcare.com and will be here tomorrow. I have used a circular polisher in the past and have had great results. Quick Question: Did you wet sand anywhere? I may have some scratches to wet sand out and if I remember correctly start with 1000 then 1500 then 2000, compound then polish.

Thanks again! Your boat looks GREAT!

BriEOD
12-21-2006, 10:52 PM
Shepard. Thanks for the pictures. You have inspired me to do this to our Cobalt. Sitting down here in the Florida sun it is starting to show some oxidation. I just ordered the kit from Properboatcare.com and will be here tomorrow. I have used a circular polisher in the past and have had great results. Quick Question: Did you wet sand anywhere? I may have some scratches to wet sand out and if I remember correctly start with 1000 then 1500 then 2000, compound then polish.

Thanks again! Your boat looks GREAT!
Just a suggestion based off a bad experience: The kit comes with sealer to use once you use the restoration paste. Do not, I repeat do not use it. Once you put it on the circular polisher it is going to fling all over your garage, trailer, boat, etc. If you do not get it off immediately and it drys, it is extremely difficult to get off. It comes in a liquid form. I recommend just a regular wax. :twocents:

Other than that, the kit is awesome. Just an aside, the company is right here in Tampa a few miles from Busch Gardens.

Stritt
12-22-2006, 09:20 AM
Thanks Brian. I didn't order and of the wax or sealers. I like 3m Finesse following by a good coat of Mequiars. Have a great holiday season.

BriEOD
12-22-2006, 09:23 AM
No worries. You do that same.

Slinkyredfoot
12-22-2006, 12:37 PM
You are not going to be able to find exact match switches. Just wipe some 303 on those switches and they will look 200% better. The switches on my '88 looked like that and with the 303 looked almost new.

Nice job on the new wheel by the way.
What is 303?

BriEOD
12-22-2006, 12:39 PM
For your edification: http://www.303products.com/main.php

Slinkyredfoot
12-22-2006, 12:44 PM
Thanks now I know

shepherd
12-24-2006, 07:47 PM
Shepard. Thanks for the pictures. You have inspired me to do this to our Cobalt. Sitting down here in the Florida sun it is starting to show some oxidation. I just ordered the kit from Properboatcare.com and will be here tomorrow. I have used a circular polisher in the past and have had great results. Quick Question: Did you wet sand anywhere? I may have some scratches to wet sand out and if I remember correctly start with 1000 then 1500 then 2000, compound then polish.

Thanks again! Your boat looks GREAT!

No I didn't do any wet sanding. I've got some scratches as well, but I'm just a little nervous about taking sandpaper to the gel coat. I know it can be done, but I don't have the knowledge or skill. If anybody has experience with wetsanding gel coat, please chime in here and give us a quick tutorial!

DooSPX
12-25-2006, 12:14 AM
No I didn't do any wet sanding. I've got some scratches as well, but I'm just a little nervous about taking sandpaper to the gel coat. I know it can be done, but I don't have the knowledge or skill. If anybody has experience with wetsanding gel coat, please chime in here and give us a quick tutorial!

I would like to hear this too?

TMCNo1
12-25-2006, 01:30 AM
Depending on how much or how fast I want to cut, 1200, 1500 or 2000 3M Imperial Micro Fine WetorDry sandpaper with a block sander. Use something like a 44 oz drink cup or a pump sprayer of water with about a tablespoon of Dawn dishwashing detergent mixed in. Make suds and dip paper in cup or spray onto gelcoat on the area of the scratches and sand lightly, as it's better to sand less than too much. Checking occasionally to see how much you have sanded by removing suds and debris with a wet towel. Once I have sanded to my satisfaction and have used 2000 as last sanding, I polish gelcoat out with Blue Magic Metal Polish till the sanding marks are gone and the gloss has returned, then I wax with Meguiars #16 Paste Wax or equal. Some scratches/small gouges are too deep into or beyond the gelcoat into the resin/glass to remove, so colored Magic Markers or paint will restore the color to the milky/white looking scratches and help hide them. Just experiment! Allowing most waxes to dry to a white haze will also make scratches and gouges stand out, so remove the wax in those areas before it dries to a white haze. I use a 18v cordless electric drill with 7" buffing pads I get from Ace hardware.

TRBenj
12-26-2006, 03:01 PM
Depending on what grade of compound you use, grits finer than 1000 (1200-2000) may not be necessary. 3M Super Duty compound, for instance, removes scratches left by 1000 grit.

Gel coat is much thicker and harder than paint, so its very durable. If you want to remove light scratches, or restore oxidized or severely faded gel, then wet sanding is the way to go. TMC's method with a block sander and spray bottle works very well.

Start with 1000 grit and work your way coarser until you start getting the results you need. When I restored my deck (above the rub rail) I had to go all the way down to 320 before I was satisfied with the color. I then worked it back up to 1000 (320,400,600,1000 2x). I would have used 800 too, but couldnt find any locally. Each successively finer grit removes the scratches left by the previous round of sanding. I then used the Super Duty compound (2x), then 3M Imperial microfinishing compound, and 3M Finesse-It II Finishing Material (polish) (2x). I then finished off with a good wax- Collinite 925.

All sanding was done with a rigid sanding block on the coarser grits, then by hand with the finer grits (600+). All buffing was done using a rotary polisher (Dewalt 849) with Lake Country buffing pads. Speed was set according to the recommendation on each product. I used a wool pad for the compounds, and a wool blend polishing pad for the Finesse-It II. Wax was applied by hand using microfiber towels.

I was able to bring the color of my deck back to life using this process. The white had faded (yellowed) and was dull- and I was able to nearly perfectly match the gel coat that was revealed when I removed an original warning sticker. I had never undertaken a process like this before, and gathered all my info from various boat and detailing forums.

The results speak for themselves:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/TRBenj/tim014_small.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/TRBenj/tim008_small.jpg

Shephard, sorry if I am hijacking your thread- your results are amazing!

shepherd
12-26-2006, 07:12 PM
No problem TR. Thanks for the info! You too Harold! Your deck looks great. You guys got me thinking about taking my project a step further and doing some wetsanding.

tuffenuff
12-28-2006, 01:46 AM
Shep, I sent you an e-mail about decals, hope you got it.... Scott

shepherd
12-28-2006, 09:19 AM
Shep, I sent you an e-mail about decals, hope you got it.... Scott

PM back at you Scott. For anybody else interested in my decal deal, here's what I told Scott:

For the decals, the best thing for you to do is contact a local sign/auto graphics shop. If you want to use my guys, they are:

CF Sign & Stamp Co
Panama City, FL
(850) 785-7953
cfsignandstamp@knology.net

Tell them Jim Shepherd, the guy with the Mastercraft boat, referred you. The guy who runs the place is James Finlayson, and it would be best to talk to him directly.

tuffenuff
12-28-2006, 12:43 PM
Thank you much my friend.....

Chaser_rct
01-15-2007, 08:43 PM
Hey Shep just wondering what you are planning to do about your fenders, i had a tire blow and totally destroyed the plastic on the left side of the trailer, any ideas?

shepherd
01-15-2007, 11:12 PM
Best I can think of is try to find a used fender and paint it to match your trailer. Maybe Jim@BAWS, Liquid Marine, or Rambo can help you find one. Otherwise, if it's not too messed up you may have to repair the damage and repaint.

Maybe someone else on here has a better idea? Got any pics of the damage? You may want to start a new thread asking for ideas/opinions of the members. Post pics of the damage on it. There's a lot of good knowledge here...

Good luck.

bbeach
01-18-2007, 01:56 PM
Here are some pics of my trailer resto that might give you some ideas...
Before pics of my trailer and then my new swing away tongue...

17425

17426

17427

17428

17429

bbeach
01-18-2007, 01:57 PM
more pics ...

17431

17432

17433

17434

17435

bbeach
01-18-2007, 01:58 PM
Finished product... with new decals and pinstriping.

17436

17437

17438

17439

17440

shepherd
01-18-2007, 02:08 PM
Looks great beach! Thanks of the pics. My boat is getting its carb rebuilt right now but the trailer (and teak platform) are next on my list.

What did you do for the steel? Did you sandblast before you painted or did you just grind down the rusted areas? What type of paint/primer did you use? How many coats?

bbeach
01-18-2007, 02:16 PM
I had the entire trailer sandblasted (minus the fenders of course) and then powdercoated gloss black... RMI in Olathe, KS sandblasted AND powder coated it for me and the total cost was $400 + tax... I couldn't justify painting it for that cost! And the PC is going to hold up longer and be mroe durable...

The fenders I refiberglassed by hand (i had broken a taillight hole out) and then used a body smoothing filler (2 coats sanding in between)...
Then 2 coats of black primer - sanding in between
3 coats of high gloss black paint (mixed with a hardener to make it more durable)... I bought the paint at Duncan Auto paints (total cost was around $100 for paint, primer and hardener)...

Trust me go with a sandblast and a powder coat! You'll be happy you did!

TMCNo1
01-18-2007, 03:32 PM
Looks great!

CRAIGTHEMAN
01-18-2007, 06:10 PM
was that fulton swing hitch welded on????i have one on my boat trailer and i want to do the same but i wasn't sure cuz it is made of cast iron

bbeach
01-18-2007, 10:25 PM
Yep I bolted it up and then welded it on... It was Mig welded BTW...

CRAIGTHEMAN
01-20-2007, 01:44 AM
thanx for the info....i don't fell comfortable with 4 bolts holding my tong together with a 30,000 dollar boat

CRAIGTHEMAN
01-20-2007, 01:45 AM
also im pretty new to this website what does "BTW" mean

CRAIGTHEMAN
01-20-2007, 01:47 AM
also i just saw the pic of the prop guard wheels...im impressed... looks good

Jesus_Freak
01-20-2007, 07:25 AM
also im pretty new to this website what does "BTW" mean

By the way...

When I first got here, I had to learn a few myself. There are still some I dont know. Anyone have them in their FAQs?

BriEOD
01-20-2007, 07:32 AM
also im pretty new to this website what does "BTW" mean
By the way...

bbeach
01-20-2007, 11:09 AM
yeah I didn't feel comfortable pulling my boat around with 4 bolts holding the tongue on either! Which is why I bolted it on and then had it welded... I'm much more happy with it now! Overall the entire trailer turned out exactly how I wanted it and it really makes the entire boat package look much nicer!

How long have you had your 190? I'm going on 6 years and I just love this boat!

CRAIGTHEMAN
01-20-2007, 11:26 AM
yea you trailer turned out amazing....it looks like you put alot of time and effert to get that baby restored...it shows by how nice it looks...

i actuly have a pro 205v (X star) boat but i have had it for 2 years now but the guy that had it before me had it for 3 years. i was with him on it every summer so i have been living on it for about 5 years now...i would never buy anything but a mastercraft...i get a kick out of people that give me **** for spending so much money on a boat but than they get a chance to drive it and it shuts them right up..lol

shepherd
01-25-2007, 10:16 PM
OK, the first task in refurbishing my trailer started tonight: Getting the trailer out from under the boat. I remember another thread where some discussion was had as to how to do this. First, I removed the back prop/rudder guard from the trailer. Only 4 bolts. Thanks Mastercraft for making them stainless!

shepherd
01-25-2007, 10:17 PM
I then lowered the trailer jack all the way down to raise the stern so I can put some blocks underneath the transom. Picture of the blocks will follow.

shepherd
01-25-2007, 10:22 PM
After I got the blocks under the transom, I jacked up the front of the trailer/boat with a large floor jack. This made the transom set down on the blocks and raised the front of the boat off the trailer. I then block up the front of the boat and removed the jack. Rolled the trailer as far as it would go until the first cross piece hit the front blocks. Put the jack behing the cross piece, jacked up the front of the boat to move the front blocks out of the way, rolled the trailer forward until the next cross piece hit the jack, block it up again behind the next cross, etc... repeat as necessary.

Here we are halfway through the process.

shepherd
01-25-2007, 10:25 PM
Here's a closeup (sort of) of the jack behind, and the blocks in front of, one of the cross pieces. Here, I'll lower the jack so the boat rests on the blocks. Remove the jack. Roll the trailer forward. Put the jack in behind the next cross piece... or something like that. You get my drift... :cool:

east tx skier
01-25-2007, 10:27 PM
I know you're not done yet. But giant brass ones on you, my friend.

shepherd
01-25-2007, 10:27 PM
The trailer is out. I put some more blocks under the boat for insurance, but she's resting pretty secure now. The whole process took me less than an hour, working by myself.

Pics of the trailer restoration will (hopefully) follow.

dmayer84
01-25-2007, 10:29 PM
Are you gonna give it a good waxing while its off the trailer?

east tx skier
01-25-2007, 10:29 PM
Oh my! Of course, you know you've got to polish the spot where the v-bunk on the trailer is. :)

Huge ones!

ski_king
01-25-2007, 10:35 PM
Thanks for the step by step photos! It almost looks too easy.
Maybe I will be brave enough to try the same thing this spring.

Doug said it best, you have big brass ones to try it.

shepherd
01-25-2007, 10:39 PM
I know you're not done yet. But giant brass ones on you, my friend.

HA! :D

I've actually done this before, with my boat mechanic buddy's help, on my old 28 footer, on soft ground in his back yard. But that boat had I/O's trimmed up... no danger of shaft/struts getting creamed if she fell off. :(

shepherd
01-25-2007, 10:41 PM
Are you gonna give it a good waxing while its off the trailer?

Yes, but very gently. ;)

The garage is directly beneath our bedroom, so if I hear a big CRASH in the middle of the night I think I'll just stay in bed all day tomorrow...

bbeach
01-26-2007, 07:43 AM
Shepherd nice work... I was lucky enough that my good friends here at the lake have the exact same boat as us! And theirs sits on a lift all year long, so I just borrowed thier trailer for the 2 months I spent refurbing mine... OTherwise I was going the same route you have just done... Boat should look nice when you get done!

Suggestion... I drilled holes in the center v sections on my trailer before I had it powder coated, I always found water sat there and discolored the paint... Drill a hole in the center of each and wualla it will keep water from sitting there and doing damage in the future...

Also I wouldn't recommend keeping ANY of your previous wiring... Its too cheap and too easy to just buy all new... I also went ahead and siliconed all my wiring connections to waterproof them and keep them nice and tight... Cuts down on problems with shorts in the future.

Let me know if you have any other questions... I just went though this whole process...

mrG
01-26-2007, 08:01 AM
bbeach, I like the cover on your boat. I need to replace the cover for my 92 PS 190 pretty soon. Where can I get that cover and what do they cost (if you don't mind me asking)?

TMCNo1
01-26-2007, 08:57 AM
The trailer is out. I put some more blocks under the boat for insurance, but she's resting pretty secure now. The whole process took me less than an hour, working by myself.

Pics of the trailer restoration will (hopefully) follow.


Shepherd, what is that blue sticker on the chine just below the boweye on the port side?

shepherd
01-26-2007, 09:35 AM
Shepherd, what is that blue sticker on the chine just below the boweye on the port side?

I forgot exactly what's on it, but it looks like some kind of inspection sticker. I'll take another look when I get home tonight, maybe post a pic for you.

TMCNo1
01-26-2007, 10:25 AM
I forgot exactly what's on it, but it looks like some kind of inspection sticker. I'll take another look when I get home tonight, maybe post a pic for you.


Maybe like this,

TMCNo1
01-26-2007, 10:26 AM
And this closer,

sizzler
01-26-2007, 10:27 AM
they have been on there since 88 righty?????

TMCNo1
01-26-2007, 10:31 AM
they have been on there since 88 righty?????


Yes Sir, nothing that adds detail is thrown away!

bbeach
01-26-2007, 12:10 PM
My cover is the stock cover that came with the boat... Its just been kept clean and washed often... Plus spending most of its life in a garage helps keep the cover looking new.
I think they are about $699 new from MC...

shepherd
01-26-2007, 02:53 PM
Shepherd, what is that blue sticker on the chine just below the boweye on the port side?

It's a "Quality Assurance" sticker.
It has lines for "By" and "Date", but they are blank. The ink probably wore off.

SDAhockey21
01-26-2007, 03:28 PM
i have the same blue sticker on our 91 maristar 210 w/ an oragne one next to it
but same.. no writing. never even gave it thought to why it was there

TMCNo1
01-26-2007, 03:58 PM
i have the same blue sticker on our 91 maristar 210 w/ an oragne one next to it
but same.. no writing. never even gave it thought to why it was there


The stickers were applied after the boat was water tested and winterized and after Quality Control did their inspection authorizing it for shipment. Washing, waxing, the water and the sun will wear away the Sharpie writing on the stickers. Clear vinyl decal material over the sticker will protect it and has protected mine for 18 years. It was normal for the dealer to remove them from the boat prior to delivery when the boat was prepped and include them with your paperwork when the boat was sold. I asked my dealer not to remove them for obvious reasons.

JohnE
01-27-2007, 02:48 PM
Shep,

I just read through this thread for the first time. Great job on your boat. (But you already know that.)

And thanks for sharing the whole process with us.

shepherd
01-31-2007, 11:30 PM
Got the trailer stripped down last weekend. Ready to roll down to the shop (as soon as I find one) for sandblasting and painting.

shepherd
01-31-2007, 11:32 PM
Another shot. Remember earlier when I thanked Mastercraft for using stainless bolts? I'm taking it back :mad: :rolleyes: . Actually, most of bolts were stainless, just not all of them.
I called one shop in Pensacola (about 100 miles away), and the guy estimated it would cost me about $1,000 for them to finish the disassembly, sandblast to clean metal, powdercoat (base coat and top coat) and then reassemble the trailer and repack the bearings also while he's at it. Sound reasonable to you?

Monte
01-31-2007, 11:35 PM
Have fun, and I'll be watching this pretty closely.........

shepherd
01-31-2007, 11:40 PM
As usual, I'm going to turn to you guys for advice. Here's the damage to my bow caused by running it up onto the old beat up trailer too many times (yeah, I know, I really abused that boat). Any suggestions on gelcoat/fiberglass repair products and methods??? I'm not too worried about the surrounding scratches, but I'd like to fix where the fiberglass is exposed.

Thanks.

Ric
02-01-2007, 08:15 AM
Got the trailer stripped down last weekend. Ready to roll down to the shop (as soon as I find one) for sandblasting and painting. prepare yourself........ I did this same project to a supra trailer about 6 years ago and got the dreaded call from the blast shop "uh, you better come see this"

the rust was worse than I thought... blast media had taken away all paint and rust and there were literally complete sections of tubing severed..... I seriously think the bunks had been keeping this trailer together:eek:

we had to run to a weld shop and have him section in some beefy plates really quick and then head back to the blast shop for the zinc based primer and paint.... unexpected delays and costs while the boat was resting in salt water

wesgardner
02-01-2007, 09:45 AM
If the cloth/roving/matt whatever is exposed you really NEED to fix it or it'll soak up water and the damage will get bigger (sorta like rot)... a quick and easy fix is just to "paint" on some epoxy to seal the surface (assumes it's been dried out properly) you can then go on and overcoat with your favorite blend of perfectly color-matched gelcoat.

C36
02-01-2007, 08:22 PM
As usual, I'm going to turn to you guys for advice. Here's the damage to my bow caused by running it up onto the old beat up trailer too many times (yeah, I know, I really abused that boat). Any suggestions on gelcoat/fiberglass repair products and methods??? I'm not too worried about the surrounding scratches, but I'd like to fix where the fiberglass is exposed.

Thanks.

Sheppard:

Your boat looks awesome from all of your hard work so far.

Here (http://www.boardlady.com/fiberglass101.htm) is a link to some basic information called "fibreglass 101" from a site put out by someone considered an expert in boat repair - the example she is working on is a windsurfing hull.

CAUTION: test a small portion of the resin you intend to use on the hull to make sure it is compatible prior to wetting a large area. You sure do not want to cause more damage with the "repair".

There is also an article on using epoxy resin to repair fibreglass boats here (http://www.westsystem.com/) (then click "projects", "boat repair and restoration", then "epoxy for fibreglass repair". This is what I used epoxy resin to repair the hull rib on canoe hull that had a similar looking injury.

Hope this helps.

shepherd
02-08-2007, 10:38 PM
Thanks for the fiberglass info and links guys. I haven't tried to tackle it yet but the info will be helpful.

Continuing with the trailer project, I got it sandblasted today. Here's a pic:

shepherd
02-08-2007, 10:40 PM
Another pic. It's at the powdercoat shop tonight, waiting to get covered with a nice shiny red tomorrow.

shepherd
02-08-2007, 10:41 PM
I keep forgetting about this. Can anybody tell me what the plastic bubble hanging from the frame above the leaf spring is? What is its purpose? :confused:

Leroy
02-08-2007, 10:54 PM
Shepherd; You are doing some fun stuff! Thanks for sharing with us! I want to go to Shep's house to play! :D

Sounding like Mr Obvious, that is to limit the amount of travel of the leaf springs. I'm not sure exactly why could be multiple reasons.

TMCNo1
02-09-2007, 12:39 AM
I keep forgetting about this. Can anybody tell me what the plastic bubble hanging from the frame above the leaf spring is? What is its purpose? :confused:

As Leroy said, it's a bubber bumper that limits the travel of the spring and prevents the tire from reaching the inside of the fender and burning a hole thru it if the trailer should it bounce up and down at speed or when hitting a low spot in the highway. They once welded a verticle plate on the plate on top of the springs that would hit the trailer frame during spring compression that did the same thing but it created a violent hit rather than a spongy effect. Mine had neither so I made my own stops using coupling nuts, nuts and bolts on the outboard spring bolts with crutch tips on the head of the bolt.

bbeach
02-09-2007, 11:46 AM
yeah you need to keep those rubber bumpers... Wait till you see your trailer pwdercoated! You'll love it! How much was it? Was it close to the $415 that my guy charged me?

bbeach
02-09-2007, 11:47 AM
what did you decide with the wheels Shepherd? Mine I hit with some steel wool and they shined RIGHT Up!

shepherd
02-09-2007, 01:06 PM
I'm going to shop for some new wheels. Either chrome or aluminum. The sandblast shop blasted my old wheels though I told him I didn't need it done. :confused: They were originally chromed but almost all the chrome was peeled off them. The only option is to paint them or re-chrome them(?). I think I'll just replace them.

I'll give you cost when I pick up the trailer. I had one shop do the sandblasting and had to take it to another shop for the powder coat.

TMCNo1
02-11-2007, 06:27 PM
Shepherd, this is what I was talking about on the guide bars, O-ring from Ace hardware for the bottom to clean the pipe entrance to the fender hole.

TMCNo1
02-11-2007, 06:36 PM
Also, I had a local sheet metal shop cut/bend Diamond Tread pieces from my patterns to cover the front of the fenders to protect the already sandblasted forward facing areas. I secured them to the fenders with 3M, 1/2" wide Black Acrylic DOT Approved Attachment Tape, Part # 051131/66382

If you notice, I do not have the rubber step pads on our trailer, in front, on top, or behind the fenders. Early on I found some 10" wide 3M aggrigate (sand/mineral) non-skid, not the plastic kind and filled out the step areas and painted them the color of the trailer. I only have to touch up every 3 or 4 years by taping them out and respraying them or touching them up with a brush, but most are places I only could see.

TMCNo1
02-11-2007, 06:48 PM
Another better view, I installed sunken grommeted 2" Red LED marker lights by drilling a 2 1/8" hole thru the diamond tread and fiberglass fender at the original surface mount rectangular marker light location.

TMCNo1
02-11-2007, 07:14 PM
Another and better view of the painted non-skid. I wrapped it down on the fender edge because that is the most vulnerable areas for scratches and wear that MC did not take into consideration when they designed the rubber pads to just go on the 3 horizontal flat areas, plus it extends back and covers the areas around the guide bar holes in the fenders. It looks like it is part of the gelcoat like some boat manufacturers do on the boat decks, fenders, platforms, etc. in vulnerable areas that will show scratches. They place the non-skid on the original plug the molds are made from and when the pieces are gelcoated and layed up with glass and are pulled out of the mold, the pieces have a built in snon-skid on the piece.

shepherd
02-11-2007, 08:46 PM
Thanks for the pics Harold. You did some great work there.

I should be getting my trailer back from the powdercoat shop tomorrow. Then the real fun will begin :)

shepherd
02-12-2007, 07:12 PM
I picked up the trailer from the powder coat shop today. I tried to polish the fenders yesterday. What do you think? I have decided whether or not to get the fenders painted yet. Buffing didn't really get rid of all the oxidation and there are a lot of surface scratches. I may try some more buffing, maybe some wet sanding.
RED, huh? :cool:

shepherd
02-12-2007, 07:18 PM
sandblasting: $240
powdercoating: $250

I got an estimate from an auto body shop to paint the fenders for $480. Sounds high to me. What do you think? I'm going to get a couple more estimates, one from a boat repair shop and another auto shop.

Or should I just rent a paint sprayer and do it myself??? :confused: Any paint guys out there with advice?

shepherd
02-12-2007, 07:21 PM
Anybody know where I can get one of these? I also need the longer one that is further back.

edwinfuqua
02-12-2007, 07:35 PM
Anybody know where I can get one of these? I also need the longer one that is further back.
You know, I thought that was nice -the fact that you even had such a 'ka-bobble' my skids are carpet covered wood!!!

I want some too! Where 'ya get 'em???

Edwin .... more to follow.

edwinfuqua
02-12-2007, 07:43 PM
Oh, BTW - That is looking really good. I like it and I wish I could have had the OP last season to redo my rig. I diden't and I'm glad I got to look at your photo session 'cause I got some new ideas.

Thanks,
Edwin - ??

TMCNo1
02-12-2007, 07:46 PM
Anybody know where I can get one of these? I also need the longer one that is further back.
MasterCraft no longer has either one in stock. They ran out back in the early '90's. I keep mine covered with carpet and replace it when it gets worn. Use contact cement or 3M High Tac #76 spray adhesive on plastic and carpet and put together. In the "V" build up a couple smaller carpet pieces before you put on the bigger final piece.

edwinfuqua
02-12-2007, 07:48 PM
I just wanted to check my signature. Ha.

east tx skier
02-12-2007, 08:58 PM
Looks great, Shep. How hard could it be to paint em??? Give Maaco a shout. :)

SKI*MC
02-12-2007, 10:27 PM
We had our fenders on our boat gel goated by a local marina. They did a really nice job on the fenders, but a horrible job on the small spots on the hull that needed attention.

SKI*MC
02-12-2007, 10:31 PM
by the way, its looking AMAZING!!! Awesome job!

H20skeefreek
02-13-2007, 07:46 AM
Anybody know where I can get one of these? I also need the longer one that is further back.
This might help http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&keyword=5320916&jspStoreDir=wm51&productId=136069&resultCt=1&catalogId=10001&ddkey=SiteSearch

shepherd
02-13-2007, 08:31 AM
This might help http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&keyword=5320916&jspStoreDir=wm51&productId=136069&resultCt=1&catalogId=10001&ddkey=SiteSearch

Wow, I never even thought of West Marine. Thanks freek. I'll check my local store.

BrianM
02-13-2007, 09:07 AM
Before you paint those fenders I would try a good wet sanding. Start with some 600 grit and keep it really wet with some slightly soapy water. Once you get the oxidation off switch over to some 800 and do the sae until the first scratches are gone. Then move to some 1500 again eliminating previous scratches. Follow with some 3m heavy rubbing compound to bring up some final gloss and then a high quality cleaner wax. I bet they look almost as good as new.

Sodar
02-13-2007, 09:12 AM
Before you paint those fenders I would try a good wet sanding. Start with some 600 grit and keep it really wet with some slightly soapy water. Once you get the oxidation off switch over to some 800 and do the sae until the first scratches are gone. Then move to some 1500 again eliminating previous scratches. Follow with some 3m heavy rubbing compound to bring up some final gloss and then a high quality cleaner wax. I bet they look almost as good as new.

I will second that. Gelcoat is sooooo much more durable than paint. I painted my fenders last year and they have held up very well, but I am also ridiculously anal about them and no one enters the boat by stepping on them... I make everyone get on from the swimstep while the boat is on the trailer.

Prostar Rich
02-13-2007, 11:32 AM
MasterCraft no longer has either one in stock. They ran out back in the early '90's. I keep mine covered with carpet and replace it when it gets worn. Use contact cement or 3M High Tac #76 spray adhesive on plastic and carpet and put together. In the "V" build up a couple smaller carpet pieces before you put on the bigger final piece.

I can second covering the rubber with carpet. I did this right away because that pad was causing damage to the boat.

Good luck.
Prostar Rich

bbeach
02-13-2007, 11:42 AM
If you paint the fenders and mix the paint with a hardner component the paint will be much more durable... Once painted put 3M fender steps or something else to allow people places to step and the paint will be fine.

east tx skier
02-13-2007, 11:47 AM
The nonskid is a great thing for protecting the gel/paint on the fenders. But it is a pretty common symptom from what I've seen for these fenders to develop little spider cracks where they meet the wheel well from people climbing in and out of the boat by stepping on either side of the fender.

Not that this stops uf from climbing in that way, but on a brand new fender, it's at least something to think about.

shepherd
02-13-2007, 01:26 PM
Thanks for all the advice guys. The more I look at the fenders, the more I think I can salvage the gel coat. I'm going to try buffing some more, maybe wetsanding this weekend. I know it won't be perfect, but then I won't have to be so anal about people stepping on them. Like the boat, the trailer will look 200% better, but it won't win any awards. I'll let you know how it turns out.

roddydog
02-13-2007, 01:42 PM
Awesome resto Shep!!! I have a '90 also and you have done a great job documenting your work.
I had the exact same nasty scrape on the keel of mine, don't have a space to work on it so I sent it to the local autobody (and boatbody) shop and he did an amazing job fixing and matching the gelcoat.
Good on ya if you tackle that job yourself.

roddydog
02-13-2007, 01:42 PM
Gotta bookmark this thread:toast:

shepherd
02-17-2007, 05:56 PM
Thanks for all the advice guys. The more I look at the fenders, the more I think I can salvage the gel coat. I'm going to try buffing some more, maybe wetsanding this weekend. I know it won't be perfect, but then I won't have to be so anal about people stepping on them. Like the boat, the trailer will look 200% better, but it won't win any awards. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Well, the wetsanding didn't work :mad: . The oxidation in the gel coat is just too severe I guess.

I have another question. I decided to replace the bunk boards on my trailer with new pressure treated 2x4's. It wasn't until I took the carpet off the old boards that I noticed that they were trimmed at an angle like shown in the pic below (now I see what you mean bbeach!). I assume that it's to more closely conform to the boat's bottom when it's on the trailer. Do you think it would be an issue to just use regular untrimmed 2x4's? I used a router to smooth the edges on the new boards, but I'm not sure if that's enough.

Anybody replace their bunk boards???

TMCNo1
02-17-2007, 06:41 PM
Well, the wetsanding didn't work :mad: . The oxidation in the gel coat is just too severe I guess.

I have another question. I decided to replace the bunk boards on my trailer with new pressure treated 2x4's. It wasn't until I took the carpet off the old boards that I noticed that they were trimmed at an angle like shown in the pic below (now I see what you mean bbeach!). I assume that it's to more closely conform to the boat's bottom when it's on the trailer. Do you think it would be an issue to just use regular untrimmed 2x4's? I used a router to smooth the edges on the new boards, but I'm not sure if that's enough.

Anybody replace their bunk boards???


Check your pm reply and by the looks of those boards, I would replace them and round both top corners good, with a router. It prevents the varying angles of the hull when launching and loading, from cutting the catpet by the sharp corners.

shepherd
02-19-2007, 09:31 PM
I was a little uneasy about using the straight boards. Didn't want any hard points causing undue stresses on the hull. So, I had a local woodworking shop trim the new boards to match the olds ones as shown below. The new board is on the bottom. Only cost me $10.

shepherd
03-09-2007, 08:00 PM
It's taking me longer than expected to finish this trailer.:mad: Here's how she looks so far. New coat of paint on the fenders after repairing a few deep scratches, got the new carpet (2 layers) on the bunks and the bunks installed. I used Marine Goop and stainless steel staples to fix the carpet to the bunks. The bunks were cut from treated 2x4x16s -- the originals were 12 feet long but I decided to go a couple inches longer to cover where the frame was damaged by corrosion.

Waiting on my new aluminum wheels.

shepherd
03-12-2007, 10:43 PM
Here's a nifty little project I did today. Thought I'd share with you. I wanted to replace the original "MC" nonskid treads on my trailer. Luckily, the old treads left a raised area on the fenders so I was able to trace out the image with a pencil on a sheet of paper.

shepherd
03-12-2007, 10:46 PM
I took some drafting tools and drew out the lines (th x's are to remind me which parts are to throw away :rolleyes: ). I then taped this sheet on top of a piece of 6" wide 3M nonskid tape. I then trimmed out along the lines using a utility knife. I replaced the razor blades a lot to keep them sharp.

shepherd
03-12-2007, 10:47 PM
Here's the finished product. One on each side of the trailer.

SDAhockey21
03-12-2007, 10:48 PM
Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!

shepherd
03-12-2007, 10:50 PM
Here's a "before" shot.

SDAhockey21
03-12-2007, 10:50 PM
6" wide 3M nonskid tape.......... where did you get this? any other bigger sizes besides 6"

Footin
03-12-2007, 10:52 PM
Nice handywork, it looks great.

shepherd
03-12-2007, 10:56 PM
I was lucky enough to find it at my local marine supply store. I checked all the major chains -- Lowe's, Home Depot, West Marine, Boater's World -- without luck. I think I saw some at Bass Pro Shops/Outdoor World a while back. 6" is the widest I was able to find, which is perfect -- the MC treads on my trailer are 5 5/8" wide, and the ones on top of the wheel wells are 6" wide.

TMCNo1
03-13-2007, 11:09 AM
6" wide 3M nonskid tape.......... where did you get this? any other bigger sizes besides 6"
Just check around, anyone who sells 3M products has a catalogue that has everything in it that 3M makes. Most of your local stores sell up to 4", but the 6" wide 60' rolls can be ordered and even larger in sheets, IIRC. Most of 3M's is the aggregate (mineral, like emory cloth) kind rather than the embossed plastic and the adhesive is far superior.

shepherd
03-14-2007, 11:23 PM
Got my new wheels on today :)

JKTX21
03-14-2007, 11:39 PM
Nice work Shepherd. When are you going to re-do my boat and trailer!? BTW, that's a nice Honda motor you have on that fishing boat next to your trailer!

Sodar
03-15-2007, 02:01 PM
Wheels look great there Shep! What a difference looking back on what you started with!!

TMCNo1
03-15-2007, 02:32 PM
Everything is really gonna look sweet when you finish!

I promise you on one of your first trips to the lake, someone will ask you, "How do you like your NEW BOAT" or "Has that thing ever been in the water"! I want you share on here with your MC brothers and sisters how it made you feel, please!

JR34
03-16-2007, 12:22 PM
I was a little uneasy about using the straight boards. Didn't want any hard points causing undue stresses on the hull. So, I had a local woodworking shop trim the new boards to match the olds ones as shown below. The new board is on the bottom. Only cost me $10.


Just curious what most of us do when replacing bunks. I replaced my bunks with 2 x 4 s last year and just wrapped with 2 layers of marine grade carpet. Anyone know of a problem doing it this way? Hindsight I wish I had thought of rounding edges a bit but I will prob have to redo this year or next anyway but just wondering if using "stock" 2 x 4 s is a concern for any reason.

BTW Shepherd that boat and trailer look GREAT!! Nice work.

shepherd
03-16-2007, 04:47 PM
Take a look at your hull where it rests on the bunks and see if you notice any deformation. I expect not, that fiberglass is some pretty strong stuff -- I wouldn't worry about it unless I saw some visible indication of deformation (note that I was only a little uneasy).

That said, if you replace them again, it is easy enough and cheap enough to get a local wood shop to trim them for you. Actually, you could probably do it easy enough with a table saw with the blade set at an angle, and a helper to hold the end of the board for you. In my case it was only a straight angle cut down the length of the boards ($10 total for both). I rounded the corners myself with a router when I got them home.

shepherd
03-28-2007, 06:48 PM
It's time to put the boat back on the trailer. Here comes a few before and after pics.

BEFORE:

shepherd
03-28-2007, 06:50 PM
I replaced all the lights with LEDs, except the guide pole lights, which are some cheap $3 lights I got at the auto parts store.

AFTER:

shepherd
03-28-2007, 06:52 PM
Before..........: