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herringtech
10-18-2006, 04:12 PM
So I went to get my 98 PS 205 X-Star winterized. I bought it last year in August and drained the water and put in my heated garage so I didn't have it winterized.

The previous owner of this boat beat her up. I have been working on restoring it for the past 14 months. I have dropped $3000 on all kinds of stuff. Its lookning great now.

Well, I get the call from the shop that there is water in the oil, and my stomach starts to turn. Turns out not only did the guy I bought this from treat the boat poorly, he probably never winterized it and the heads are cracked as is the exhaust manifold elbows.

I hadn't noticed it as the motor "ran" fine, and there was no visible leaks. We had lots of fun on the boat this summer.

Needless to say, I was taken by this kid and I am just sick about it. I thought I got a good deal on this boat, but it appears I am going to have to invest more into the boat to get it right than its worth.

On the good side after all that work and $$ it will be like a new boat.

Just wanted to vent and get some encouragement/scorn from the community.

Anyone know a good place to pick up a rebuilt engine?

LakePirate
10-18-2006, 04:19 PM
Don't fret about the cracked exhaust risers, you can replace both of those for about $240 bucks. Pretty easy, I have replaced the manifolds and know a cute little trick to getting the bolts out. When you get into cracked heads that is a bit out of my league, but if you want to give it a try I will gladly lend an extra set of hands. Where in Atlanta are you located?

exhaust riser at Skidim (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=53-2027)

east tx skier
10-18-2006, 04:22 PM
Sorry to hear about it. Hope it's as simple as replacing the risers.

So LakePirate, what's your trick to getting the bolts out?

LakePirate
10-18-2006, 04:26 PM
Cut a section off of the appropriate sized allen wrench that will fit into the elbow, insert it into a ratchet type box wrench and have at it. The elbow is at such an angle that you cannot get the short end of the allen wrench into the bolt head on the back 2 bolts on either side. Took me about 2 nights and several coors lights to come up with that. Probably not that great an idea but I was pretty proud of myself.

east tx skier
10-18-2006, 04:37 PM
I really want to replace those bolts with the set from skidim to make replacing those gaskets easier next time. I finally gave up and took it to the mechanic at the shell station. Got a nice low estimate, then let him mess with those bad boys for a while. And it took him a while, but it was worth my $30.

LakePirate
10-18-2006, 04:51 PM
It really wasn't bad once I figured that little thing out. If you need to, you can slide a piece of pipe over the box wrench and gain some additional leverage. I will have to go and check out the replacement bolts.

I'm adding to the forum
I'm adding to the forum

:banana:

herringtech
10-18-2006, 04:56 PM
LakePirate, I am located in Canton off of 575. I am having my shop give me a quote on the repair, they dont expect to have that to me for another week as they are finishing up winterizing. They say worse case they will have to replace the motor. Ouch

jwchapman
10-18-2006, 05:01 PM
Did I read this correctly?

You have had the boat over a year and it ran fine all summer? Or has it been sitting all summer while you worked on it? The shop now says there is water in the oil and you have cracked heads and exhaust risers?

It would be a little hard for me to blame a previous owner of a boat I used for a year - I might look for other explanations before I started replacing the heads and exhaust risers of a boat that runs. Do you trust the shop?

Sounds interesting - please keep us informed how this turns out.

BrianM
10-18-2006, 05:03 PM
They say worse case they will have to replace the motor. Ouch
If they tell you that the only fix is to replace the motor and the boat runs good like you say I would just use it until it didn't run anymore. Not going to cost you anything more and who knows how long the boat might run you obviously got at least one season out of it so you very well may get another one or two or more.

kah68
10-18-2006, 05:21 PM
Not sure what motor you have but ski D.I.M. has brand new crate motors on the site, the 310 h.p. H.O. Ford is $ 3,550.00, the 295 H.P. Chevs are $ 3,254.00 and $ 4,016.00. I know it's not much comfort but I have been there before and you really have no choice but to fix it. My attitude in the past with big $ repairs is fix it, use it for a season or two and then you have at least recouped some of your investment and a boat with a good running or 'new' low hour motor is pretty attractive.

Kirk

kah68
10-18-2006, 05:30 PM
If indeed the block is cracked and depending on how often you use the boat, if it is running good, get an oil extractor and buy the cheapest bulk oil you can find. Only takes 10 mins to do an oil change. I know the readers here would love to see how long you could get out of that block before it goes down and like ' Brian M ' says you really have nothing to lose if it's allready cracked.

Kirk

LakePirate
10-18-2006, 05:46 PM
Guys if only the risers are cracked then that is a simple fix. Busted heads seems to be the real issue.

herringtech
10-18-2006, 06:22 PM
The boat runs like a champ, no apparent power loss or anything. So I dont know how bad it is. I trust the shop, but not with my life. They are good but busy. They were bought out last year by the marina, so they have no reason to gouge me on a new motor or expensive repair. The previous owner is now the head mechanic, and I don't think he is getting a bonus for engine replacements.

They assure me the heads are cracked in addition to the risers If it were just the risers I think i would attempt to fix it myself, but the heads as LakePirate says is a different story.

My inclination is to replace and be done with it and not risk the motor quitting on me in the middle of the lake next season, but you guys do make a good point. My last boat I kept for 10 years. If I get this boat in pristine condition, i will run it for years.

I am thiniking about driving down there tomorrow and chat them up. Face to face goes a long way down here in the deep South.

I will keep you updated.

Footin
10-18-2006, 06:40 PM
Make sure to tell them you need more cow bell.

milkmania
10-18-2006, 06:46 PM
So I went to get my 98 PS 205 X-Star winterized. I bought it last year in August and drained the water and put in my heated garage so I didn't have it winterized.

The previous owner of this boat beat her up. I have been working on restoring it for the past 14 months. I have dropped $3000 on all kinds of stuff. Its lookning great now.

Well, I get the call from the shop that there is water in the oil, and my stomach starts to turn. Turns out not only did the guy I bought this from treat the boat poorly, he probably never winterized it and the heads are cracked as is the exhaust manifold elbows.

I hadn't noticed it as the motor "ran" fine, and there was no visible leaks. We had lots of fun on the boat this summer.

Needless to say, I was taken by this kid and I am just sick about it. I thought I got a good deal on this boat, but it appears I am going to have to invest more into the boat to get it right than its worth.

On the good side after all that work and $$ it will be like a new boat.

Just wanted to vent and get some encouragement/scorn from the community.

Anyone know a good place to pick up a rebuilt engine?

let us bow our heads and say a prayer for this man and his boat

we know she'll be taken better care of now

herringtech
10-18-2006, 07:48 PM
Thank Milk, i can always count on you to cheer me up.

Milk rocks!!!

milkmania
10-18-2006, 08:05 PM
Thank Milk, i can always count on you to cheer me up.

Milk rocks!!!


yeah, I'm real good at helping other people with their problems....
I think they labeled that as co-dependant8p

DooSPX
10-18-2006, 08:07 PM
Herringtech, "IF" if the heads are bad, get a set of used heads off the net, or something, and have a machine shop check the heads and install brass freeze plugs

herringtech
10-18-2006, 10:16 PM
Good suggestion DooSPX I will start the search for them.

erkoehler
10-18-2006, 10:27 PM
Let me know if there is anything that I can help you out with.....sorry to hear about this :(

Doug G
10-18-2006, 11:17 PM
What did they do beyond water in the oil to determine the heads are cracked? There are other possible causes. In my experience the only way to tell heads are cracked is after they are off and sometimes only at a machine shop. A second opinion and some pressure / compression testing may be in order. ( I haven't worked on engines in quite a few years but I don't think the basics have changed)

milkmania
10-18-2006, 11:45 PM
What did they do beyond water in the oil to determine the heads are cracked? There are other possible causes. In my experience the only way to tell heads are cracked is after they are off and sometimes only at a machine shop. A second opinion and some pressure / compression testing may be in order. ( I haven't worked on engines in quite a few years but I don't think the basics have changed)


I was under that impression also...
I don't think compression check can truly pinpoint cracked heads, can it?

redmike
10-18-2006, 11:53 PM
sometimes it can milk depending on where the crack is, but I agree with doug, a cracked head does not warrant a new engine IMHO. I would bge a little hesitant to drop a new motor in my boat because of a cracked head. Now if the block is cracked, that is a new motor but they are just giving you worste case senario I feel. Good luck!

jeverett
10-19-2006, 12:03 AM
Worst case senario or not it is very difficult to tell if the heads are cracked or not without pulling them and doing a magnaflux on them. There are so many other things that could cause water in the oil. I would run from anyone that would tell you that you need a new engine! I just replaced my heads this summer and did it in one day. It is really easy especially if you have some beer and a friend cause they are heavy. The other thing that I would look at is running temp. You could be getting a little hot. You could get some real marine heads here.http://www.firstmatemarine.net/

Doug G
10-19-2006, 12:06 AM
I was under that impression also...
I don't think compression check can truly pinpoint cracked heads, can it?
Not always , depends on where and how bad the crack is. Can you pressure test the cooling system on these? That is a great way to get a good idea on an engine with a closed cooling system...

I agree on the prayer this boat has got to be happier now with a good home. But it sounds like Herringtech's rainy day account isn't so happy right now :D

jeverett
10-19-2006, 12:11 AM
Replace the engine because of a cracked head that just don't make no sense, it's like wipen' before ya poop it just don't make no sense!!!

H20skeefreek
10-19-2006, 07:51 AM
I'd get the boat back and drain out all of the oil, fill it up, drain it again, refill it and check for water. If you don't see any, take it out and run it, and check it again. I really don't think your boat would run like a "champ" if it had a cracked head or block. But if you do, I'll haul off that old motor for you:D . If it's that pesky MCX, I'd get rid of it, just tell me where to pick it up.

Doug G
10-27-2006, 07:30 PM
Bump ... How's this going Herringtech?

herringtech
11-06-2006, 09:39 AM
I have been traveling on business and the shop is still to busy with winterizations. They haven't taken a closer look at it yet. I am expecting an update from the shop in the next week or so.

Thanks for asking Doug, I will update as soon as I know. I'm sure I will need the moral support

herringtech
03-19-2007, 12:32 PM
So I let the boat sit all winter, just pulled it down to take it to a different guy to check on what is actually cracked. I checked the oil on the dip stick and it was milky in color not clear as new oil should be. It didn't look good.

I talked with Rich at Ski Dim and he thinks it won't be that difficult if it’s just the heads and exhaust risers that have cracks in them. Less than $1K in parts vs. new engine at $7K

The mechanic will be looking at it this week and I have my fingers crossed.

KnoxX2
03-19-2007, 12:35 PM
Good luck and I hope things work out for you.........

dapicatti
03-19-2007, 10:50 PM
Keep us posted. I hope it all works out for you.

Tennesseeski
03-20-2007, 09:18 AM
So I let the boat sit all winter, just pulled it down to take it to a different guy to check on what is actually cracked. I checked the oil on the dip stick and it was milky in color not clear as new oil should be. It didn't look good.

I talked with Rich at Ski Dim and he thinks it won't be that difficult if it’s just the heads and exhaust risers that have cracks in them. Less than $1K in parts vs. new engine at $7K

The mechanic will be looking at it this week and I have my fingers crossed.


The tri-star I had a few years back had the milky looking oil problem. I thought I had a problem too since no oil should look like that. Like yours, my boat ran good other than that, so I was puzzled as well.:confused: After I changed the oil for the third time, my problem went away. The guy I bought it from took o.k. care of it, but not like most of us would. He hadn't changed the oil as needed is what I think caused it because each time I changed oil, the color got a little better. Each time after I got it back to "normal color" it always looked like it should from then on. If the guy you bought the boat from didn't take care of it very well, I bet he never changed the oil like he should have. I would change it along with the filter and run it a day or two. Then repeat a couple more times and see if the oil color gets any better/worse. A few quarts of oil is cheaper than your other options! Just my 2cents!! Good Luck!

herringtech
03-20-2007, 09:28 AM
Good word Tennesseeski, I will mention it to the guy its at now.

The guy I took it too, is a Army buddy of a very good friend. His father and him rebuild cars they buy from insurance companies that have been in wrecks. He is doing us a favor looking at it and will charge very little if it needs any rebuilding.

But hopefully its just some bad oil. I will keep you all posted.

herringtech
03-21-2007, 06:33 PM
So the news is not good. Block is cracked, Heads (both) are cracked and there is some issue with the intake manifold.

Guy who is working on it though said he can replace the motor for $2800 installed, which is good news. I imagine it may cost a bit more with some replacement indmar parts, but its better than $5K for a new motor from Skidim.

At least this boat will be cared for from here on out, and the Gel retoration and teak look fantastic

erkoehler
03-21-2007, 06:41 PM
What kind of engine is that for $2,800?

herringtech
03-21-2007, 06:49 PM
I'm not sure yet, I am going to meet with him tomorrow to discuss. I may opt for the new motor anyway. This guy is a whiz at rebuilds so it may be a new block and heads and everything else is stripped off my engine.

He is a good old boy from North Georgia, but he does know his stuff.

Well see...

JohnE
03-21-2007, 08:18 PM
Coming into this thread on the tail end, but there's a lot to be said for a good mechanic wrenching on the side and getting a good deal. If you're talking fulltime shop, dealer or not, they need to get a certain rate to pay for all the overhead. If you have someone who truly knows his stuff doing it as a favor (even though you are paying) cost can go down dramatically.

Anyway, good luck.

atlfootr
03-21-2007, 09:47 PM
Years back when I lived in Forsyth County on Lake Lanier, if I ever expericenced any major problems w/ my boat I'd always go to Rambo Marine in Halze Green , AL. even though JOA was a few miles away from the house

Not only were Skeeter Rambo, Lex (partsman) and other the guys fantasatic over there at Rambo within their Sales Dept.but the Service Dept was beyond outstanding.
Driving the 250 Miles on a 4.5 hour road trip was worth every mile.:wavey:

Maristar210
03-21-2007, 10:06 PM
Did anyone do a leakdown or compression test?

This whole thread sounds like someone decided:

"Yeah its the motor, you need a new one, the heads are cracked"

I throw the BS flag until further review. Leakdown test and compression test will reveal these cracks in the heads. Cracked heads and exhaust do not mean the entire motor needs to be replaced. I smell BS !!!

Don't get sucked into these tactics

herringtech
03-21-2007, 10:12 PM
I am going to speak the guy tomorrow and I will ask if he did a leakdown and compression test. But he is the second guy who has looked at it and told me the motor had major issues. Cracked head at the least and cracked block at the worst.

If I am not satisfied with his answers I may drive it over to Rambo as atlfootr suggested, I have ordered parts from them and they are awesome.

Maristar210
03-21-2007, 10:22 PM
Herr-

If it truly had these problems it would not run well, at least not for long. The oil should have foamed up and cooked the motor by now unless the crack(s) are minor in which case I'd keep using it until the temp gauge pegged....

BOL - Steve

Doug G
03-21-2007, 10:52 PM
Herr-

If it truly had these problems it would not run well, at least not for long. The oil should have foamed up and cooked the motor by now unless the crack(s) are minor in which case I'd keep using it until the temp gauge pegged....

BOL - Steve

I pick up the BS flag raise it even higher and wave it wildly !! I used to wrench in a private garage, ran a team in the shop at a Lincoln dealer and had a cracked block of my own in a Chevy 305. I have seen many head gasket, cracked heads and blocks and lot of in between. I have seen a lot of mis-diagnosed and over repaired work as well. Although never on a marine engine so there may be a difference that I am not familiar with.

I also scream BS unless the proper diagnostics have been done. Like has been said, if it has not been tested using modern techniques no mechanic in the world can accurately tell you for fact you have cracked heads / block / intake. I have yet to meet the true mechanic that can diagnose a cracked head with it on the motor without a borescope, unless the crack is visible from the outside and then you would see it too. A blown head gasket acts just the same as a cracked head. For example, SOP for a head gasket job is to send the heads out to be checked by a machine shop for cracks that you can't see and to check for warping and probably machine them.

When my block cracked on my 305 I was exactly the same symptoms and test results as a head gasket problem until I tore it down and found the big a$$ crack in the intake valley.

None of these ever ran right. Temp should be fluctuating among other things. You might have a good mechanic but be sure to ask just how he determined you need his new engine. I don't know the prices where you are but around here $2800 installed doesn't buy a quality, waranteed engine unless it is a friend doing it way cheap and no margin. So I would check what I am getting , warranty etc...

Just my :twocents:

Leroy
03-21-2007, 11:01 PM
Just looking at the timeline sounds like you drove it all summer with a cracked block and heads and the boat ran fine? Seems like the cracks had to occur during last winter with the previous owner. THis doesn't make sense to me either.

I know we had a car that cracked a head and it went downhill quickly was very obvious.

herringtech
03-22-2007, 08:48 AM
Doug, Leroy,
Thanks for the BS aleart, I will go talk to him today with an nose out for it. I am printing out this thread so I know what to ask.

I bought the boat and it ran fine on a test drive, I only partially winterized it (drained the water from the block, hoses, pump, and impeller) that winter (05') and kept it in a heated garage. When I pulled the plugs it was like they had never been removed before. I had to literally clean out the holes to get the water to flow out. They were clogged up with dirt, setiment and rust. I dont think it was ever winterized before and was stored outside in South Carolina.

I ran it all last summer and it was fine, my only problem with it last summer was when it was warmed up, it would need a little pump of gas to start sometimes. No white smoke, no hot temp gauge, plenty of power to pull skiers.

The only experience I had before this MC is my 1981 Nautique that was lighter and smaller. I am no expert, but I felt like the Nautique had more "umph" out of the hole, and top end. Which I contributed to the size and weight differences. The MC handled much smoother and the wake was much better than the 81. Should it have felt different? Should the MC have felt more like what I had in the Nautique?

I wouldn't be surprised if the engine needed major work, everything else on this girl did. I have put lots of time restoring her outside and in, but I haven't touched the engine yet. She will be pristine when I am done with her, no MC should be treated this way :o

Thanks everyone you all are very encouraging and helpful, I will keep you all informed.

Doug G
03-22-2007, 05:48 PM
good luck....

H20skeefreek
03-22-2007, 09:50 PM
I dont think it was ever winterized before and was stored outside in South Carolina.



It's not really necessary in SC. I pull the hoses anyway, but that's all that I do. I wouldn't assume that b/c it was stored outside here it has a cracked anything.

herringtech
03-23-2007, 09:17 AM
Went and talked to him, there appears to be a small visable crack on the maifold. He agree's that to really determine if there is a crack you need to do a leakdown and or compression test.

He is pulling the motor today to get a closer look at everything.

The $2800 motor is the super friend deal, it would be a new block, heads, and manifold, but scavanged parts from my existing motor and put back together.

He will install a motor if I decide to get it from Skidim, for $500 and that would include all his time diagnosing the current engine.

So looking for advice here. This guy is going to do his due dilligence to determine if and where there are cracks, but it looks like there is. No one (including him) undersand how it would perform as well as it did last summer with such cracks. But if it is basically ruined what should I do, proceed with his $2800 option which seems legit or order a motor from Skidim?

Skidim said the best option is a new Excalibur 330HP @$7,545 (ouch), and that is all complete. Or I can just get a base engine and new manifold and swap out the other parts for $3,254.

What would TMC owners do? That would make a cool braclet huh? "WWTMCOD"

Jesus_Freak
03-23-2007, 09:32 AM
Went and talked to him, there appears to be a small visable crack on the maifold. He agree's that to really determine if there is a crack you need to do a leakdown and or compression test.

He is pulling the motor today to get a closer look at everything.

The $2800 motor is the super friend deal, it would be a new block, heads, and manifold, but scavanged parts from my existing motor and put back together.

He will install a motor if I decide to get it from Skidim, for $500 and that would include all his time diagnosing the current engine.

So looking for advice here. This guy is going to do his due dilligence to determine if and where there are cracks, but it looks like there is. No one (including him) undersand how it would perform as well as it did last summer with such cracks. But if it is basically ruined what should I do, proceed with his $2800 option which seems legit or order a motor from Skidim?

Skidim said the best option is a new Excalibur 330HP @$7,545 (ouch), and that is all complete. Or I can just get a base engine and new manifold and swap out the other parts for $3,254.

What would TMC owners do? That would make a cool braclet huh? "WWTMCOD"

Dont let anyone work on your "engine" if they call it a "motor". :D :D

Just kidding....my vote would be not to buy new.

Maristar210
03-23-2007, 09:37 AM
Ooooh man thats a tough one.

If I could swing it I would go new, but if its going to break your bank then the less expensive option would suffice.

Has anyone mentioned we need pictures?

Rich_G
03-23-2007, 10:09 AM
Herr, this is the first time I have seen this thread. I bought a 99 205V at the end of last summer. Similar situation, a guy and his son owned the boat; the dad paid the bills and the son did his part by neglecting the boat. Left it outside not winterized and it ended up with a cracked block, but I knew about when I bought it.

I got it and put in a new engine as part of the original deal. I had the MC dealer in DFW put in a Jasper "re-manufactured" engine.

http://www.jasperengines.com/mari-products.htm

There actually is a difference in what they do compared to a typical rebuild. The service manager at MC said this is exactly what they would do on a brand new $75K boat under warranty. The Jasper block has an 18 month warranty. The total installed price on mine was $4500.

herringtech
03-23-2007, 10:46 PM
Thanks Rich that is an awsome recommendation. I may go that route.

Maristar, I will take some pics next time I am out there. The motor...opps the engine will be pulled by then.

herringtech
03-26-2007, 05:16 PM
OK I saw the engine (and forgot to take pictures), and there is no question the block and heads had visible hairline cracks with rust marks on the outside of the engine as well as inside. The intake manifold is fine, the exhaust manifold on one side is cracked. We can't figure out how the engine ran so well with all the cracks it had.

I think (remembering a convo with the previous owner) that it probably cracked one cold spell in South Carolina while it was sitting outside without a cover. Then it wasn't run for some time after and the cracks partially sealed themselves with rust and sediment. Allowing for operation without seizing or overheating. Is that a crazy theory? Well anyway that is what I'm sticking with...

This guy will get a new engine with a 6 month warranty and swap all my good parts (which is basically the valve covers, intake FI System, and dip stick) to the new engine.

I ordered new exhaust manifolds, manifold hardware and marine gaskets for him.

He is going to replace the engine and install it with the new parts for $2800 complete; the extra parts I ordered were just over $500.

Jasper wanted $700 more for the same new engine not installed with a 1 year warranty, and I would still need the additional parts.

I decided to go with this guy after I saw some of the work he was doing at his shop/house. He was putting a 396 big block into a 1969 Camaro, it was sweet. He knows his stuff and he has worked on several MC and Nautiques in the past.

My best friend trusts him implicitly and I believe he is a honest person. I am sure it is going to run better than it ever has, and I know it will be taken care of from now on.

Thanks everyone for your support, I will send pics of the new engine when its complete.

Doug G
03-26-2007, 05:30 PM
Glad to hear you have solid information to work from. Sounds like you are in good hands dealing with a mechanic rather than a parts swapper. How long will this take?

Don't forget to break it in right... drive it like you stole it :D


:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

jimmer2880
03-26-2007, 06:11 PM
Sorry it's such a bad ending. But - at least it should be ready for summer & you won't be wondering "what if".

herringtech
03-26-2007, 06:16 PM
He should have parts in hand by Wednesday, and the Skidim parts should be to him by the end of the week. So earliest would be some time next week, but probably more like just after Easter, which isnt too bad.

I've never broken in a marine engine before, any tips?

87MCProstar
03-27-2007, 08:12 PM
I have a similar story. picked the boat up off the lake i grew up on, it was a trade in on a newer model. figured local boat serviced at local dealer what problems can i have? wrong idea. had the boat two weeks, transmission crapped out. boat out 2 1/2 months (out of a 4 month season), boat docked dealer didn't take the boat out of the water, not tied to the dock very well and banged up against it the entire time it was there. dealer said the marks were already there. finally get the boat back, take two footin runs, smell tranny fluid open motor box transmission fluid EVERYWHERE. and that was the end of my first season with the boat.

87MCProstar
03-27-2007, 09:10 PM
I have a similar story. picked the boat up off the lake i grew up on, it was a trade in on a newer model. figured local boat serviced at local dealer what problems can i have? wrong idea. had the boat two weeks, transmission crapped out. boat out 2 1/2 months (out of a 4 month season), boat docked dealer didn't take the boat out of the water, not tied to the dock very well and banged up against it the entire time it was there. dealer said the marks were already there. finally get the boat back, take two footin runs, smell tranny fluid open motor box transmission fluid EVERYWHERE. and that was the end of my first season with the boat.

Prostarski190
05-23-2012, 09:28 AM
He should have parts in hand by Wednesday, and the Skidim parts should be to him by the end of the week. So earliest would be some time next week, but probably more like just after Easter, which isnt too bad.

I've never broken in a marine engine before, any tips?

I'd love to know how this story ended. It seems I find myself in a similar situation and am weighing my options.

sp00ky
05-23-2012, 10:08 AM
I'd love to know how this story ended. It seems I find myself in a similar situation and am weighing my options.

Me too as I am on Lake Lanier and it would be good to know if this is the mechanic to go to in the event I have issues.

Philscbx
05-26-2012, 10:27 AM
Did I read this correctly?

The shop now says there is water in the oil and you have cracked heads and exhaust risers?

I might look for other explanations before I started replacing the heads and exhaust risers of a boat that runs. I'm on that same page as you, and for one, the actual leak source has to be pointed out.

One would think leaking manifolds would be noticed.
Regardless, it's weldable, all of it.

I really doubt the heads are a problem.
Water at worst would blow the freeze plugs at the ends of them.
Might want to look good and deep to see if new ones were installed, they will be shiny vs painted.

I'll bet the lifter wall is cracked at water jacket below the heads under the intake manifold..
An inch long crack is about all it takes, but you can't be running it this way with water in the oil.

Somewhat surprised oil wasn't checked for milky film/foam high moisture, or changed while running it.

Call them to see if intake manifold is off.
Then go and inspect.
Take pictures, make sure they are focused close. Hold it rock steady.
Then post report.

herringtech
05-29-2012, 03:33 PM
I'd love to know how this story ended. It seems I find myself in a similar situation and am weighing my options.

The heads were indeed cracked and needed to be replaced. I saw it all for myself after he broke down the engine. The shiny new engine ran like a dream till I sold the boat last year.

Good luck everyone and the lesson of the story is buyer beware. Have the boat checked out by a good mechanic even if you buy out of town.

Redstorm
06-07-2012, 01:31 AM
Wow!! What a story and 5 years later! Herringtech...are you out of boating or have another boat. Just boaght a 2001 205v with a 620hrs from a friend who was on a team that raced boats. He took care of it but worried bout the hours. Stories like this scare the crap out me.

Samething happened to me with a performance boat in the late 80s due to a deep freeze. 5k back then for a performance engine.

herringtech
06-07-2012, 11:23 AM
Wow!! What a story and 5 years later! Herringtech...are you out of boating or have another boat. Just boaght a 2001 205v with a 620hrs from a friend who was on a team that raced boats. He took care of it but worried bout the hours. Stories like this scare the crap out me.

Samething happened to me with a performance boat in the late 80s due to a deep freeze. 5k back then for a performance engine.

Haven't bought a new boat yet. We moved this year and cash flow is tight. The kids are getting antsy to get on the water again, so probably next spring or maybe find a deal this fall. I don't regret buying the boat. The engine was a expensive lesson of "Caveat emptor", but the guts of the boat were stellar, and hence why the price was so attractive. Good luck with your purchase.