View Full Version : Remote oil filter kit
12-11-2004, 05:19 PM
Is there an inexpensive way to make a remote oil filter upgrade to the X series? A friend of mine is buying a new boat, and some of the other manufacturers have added this as a standard option. Basically, it moves the oil filter from under the block, to the front of the motor box making it trivial for anyone to change the filter. The super nice thing about it is that if you mount the oil filter upside down, then you don't have to worry about spilling oil everywhere when changing the fluids.
The retail version I found was $300 -- and I'm not quite that rich to be that lazy. :) Under $100, and I'll spring for it, but until it reaches a non-marine price, I'll either have to engineer something, or live with the oil filter in its original location.
12-11-2004, 06:32 PM
I would be interested in one as well. Changing the filter on my X30 LTR without getting oil in the bilge is next to impossible. I've tried garbage bags, someone suggested a milk jug but that wouldn't fit either. I think next time I am going to poke a hole in the filter to drain it before removing.
Also, the oil pan drain hose that routes through the drain plug is painfully slow. It takes over an hour to drain all the oil. I would like to know other peoples experiences with this set up.
Tom, with respect to slow oil drain from the oil drain extension hose, I use a vaccum pump I got from West Marine to drain the oil. The vaccum extractor comes with a hose and bought a female barbed connector at Home Base to connect directly to the oil drain extension hose (I think its 5/8", but take the existing cap with you to determine). Once connected you pump the vaccum extractor which creates and vaccum and sucks the oil right out. Takes less than 5 minutes to drain the oil with the vaccum extractor. Here are some pics for your reference. Oh, warming the engine up to NOT helps as well.
12-11-2004, 07:14 PM
I'm pretty sure the threads on that drain hose are 1/4 inch NPT...
Tom023- remember, if you have the remote filter, you still need to punch a hole in it so it drains into the block and isn't full when you remove it. Did you try cutting the milk jug so it's about 4"-5" tall?
12-12-2004, 10:37 AM
With respect to slow draining, I'm assuming that you run the engine and drain the oil while it is still warm. Otherwise, an hour seems like a quick drain for cold oil. :)
I think my X2 takes on the order of 30 minutes or so for it to completely quit draining. I typically start draining the oil first, then get my rags/newspaper and other stuff laid out inside to protect from the inevitable spill when changing the filter. By the time I do that, and finish the beer, the stream has slowed enough that I'm happy most of it is gone. Of course, I only have 5-6 quarts, perhaps your LTR is more.
12-12-2004, 10:52 AM
Thanks for the suggestions. I have a pump to remove the transmission oil but never thought about hooking it up to the drain hose as Kell does, I think I go that route. I do warm the oil up so that is not an issue. I thought maybe I had some sort of blockage, so I cleaned to hose out to be sure. I'll see what happens next time.
Jim, maybe the jug was still too tall, I'll cut it down further next time. But trying to hold it, get the filter off without spilling the oil that is running down the outside of the filter, while hanging upside down, just seems there has to be a better way. Thanks for the suggestion.
If I don't want oil on my hands, I usually loosen the filter a bit, let the oil above drain out, wipe it off, then unscrew it and set it straight down into the plastic jug bottom. I place paper towels under to keep the bilge clean when I start. Then, I tip the filter over to let it drain into the container and let the oil drip into it before removing it. If there's room, I immediately fill the new filter and install it. Then I remove the old stuff and wipe the bilge in case some oil spilled. Usually, there's someplace next to the motor where the container bottom can be lifted out without dumping all over.