PDA

View Full Version : Unwanted water!


Idahowater
10-02-2006, 11:48 AM
I need a little help. I recently purchased a '96 PS205. The first time we had it on the lake I noticed that everytime I turned hard to the right to pick up a fallen skier, water would show up on the floor where my feet are, I mean a lot of water. I checked to make sure the bilge pump was working and just can't figure out where the water is coming from. Yesterday when we had the boat out again the same thing was happening. Anyone have the same experience or any ideas?

bcampbe7
10-02-2006, 11:52 AM
Does your boat have a heater?
Could be a cracked heater core leaking on the floor...

G-man
10-02-2006, 11:53 AM
Water is more than likely coming in under the rubrail between the upper and lower hulls/deck. Some silicone glue under the rub rail may fix it. Your not the first one to have this happen.

Idahowater
10-02-2006, 11:56 AM
We don't have a heater, only a hot shower.

Idahowater
10-02-2006, 11:59 AM
Water is more than likely coming in under the rubrail between the upper and lower hulls/deck. Some silicone glue under the rub rail may fix it. Your not the first one to have this happen.
Thanks, I'll have to take a look at the rub rail. For as much water is coming in it should be fairly easy to see and hopefully fix.

Leroy
10-02-2006, 12:06 PM
Is your bilge area pretty dry before you make the turn and notice this? Could just be shaft leaking and filling up the bilge. Turning to the right sounds like you are getting water in the rub rail.

Hoosier Bob
10-02-2006, 12:21 PM
Rub rail! Remove the plate on the stern and pull the center rubber piece out all the way to the Bow. I replace all of my rivets with SS flathead screws and SS washers with SS nylon bolts. Not that big if a job and if you want you can just repair where it is loose. Walk around the boat and try to move the rub rail. mark the area with masking tape where the rail is loose, pull the rub and start drilling out the rivets. Do one side at a time and as you replace the rub it is easiest to bend back the rub as you are reinstalling it into the rail. The SS upgrade is amazingly tight and has worked perfectly for 3 years. Also you can re-rivet but I like this setup best.
Have fun!:D
PS. The leak is created as you would suspect by the loosening of the rivets from hitting the guideposts on the trailer. Not hard hits just numerous hits over time.

bigmac
10-02-2006, 12:25 PM
I need a little help. I recently purchased a '96 PS205. The first time we had it on the lake I noticed that everytime I turned hard to the right to pick up a fallen skier, water would show up on the floor where my feet are, I mean a lot of water. I checked to make sure the bilge pump was working and just can't figure out where the water is coming from. Yesterday when we had the boat out again the same thing was happening. Anyone have the same experience or any ideas?

This has been mentioned here before - these are the exact symptoms of a leaking rub rail. One check would be to caulk the top and bottom edges of the rubrail (run a bead) with some cheap clear silicone and see if it stops leaking. If it does, the optimal solution would be to pull out the rub rail insert, then unscrew the rub rail itself and re-caulk the "shoe box" joint of deck and hull with some marine-grade silicone, then re-install the rub rail and then the insert. These latter two steps are not a fun job.:(

bigmac
10-02-2006, 12:28 PM
Rub rail! Do one side at a time and as you replace the rub it is easiest to bend back the rub as you are reinstalling it into the rail.

I discovered this technique by trial and error. It works well and is likely the only way to get that sucker back in there. It made my right hand sore for 2 days.

Idahowater
10-02-2006, 12:42 PM
Yes, the bilge is dry. I had the boat completely serviced before we put it on the water so everything is tight. It's starting to sound like a leaking rub rail. I've never had the pleasure of a leaking rub rail before so I was really confused on where the water was coming from.

Hoosier Bob
10-02-2006, 12:57 PM
Water would hit my leg in some waves or turns. End of season fix anyway. The SS setup has not loosened, no caulk was used and is tight as a drum. Like Mac says your fingers will be a little sore but the rail will be solid with no leaks.
Take care

Idahowater
10-02-2006, 01:01 PM
Thanks for all the great info! Sounds like I'll have another project this winter besides putting on the new wake tower.

Workin' 4 Toys
10-02-2006, 01:10 PM
SS washers with SS nylon bolts. .
You mean you have Stainless Steel washers and Stainless steel nylon bolts? Where would I find such hardware??? Sounds neat..:rolleyes:

bigmac
10-02-2006, 01:21 PM
You mean you have Stainless Steel washers and Stainless steel nylon bolts? Where would I find such hardware??? Sounds neat..:rolleyes:My hardware store sells 'em. I think they're pretty easy to come by...

Workin' 4 Toys
10-02-2006, 01:26 PM
My hardware store sells 'em. I think they're pretty easy to come by...
hmmmm..... steel nylon....I'll have to look that up...8p

bigmac
10-02-2006, 02:16 PM
hmmmm..... steel nylon....I'll have to look that up...8p

:confused:

Hoosier Bob
10-02-2006, 03:24 PM
He is being an Arse Mac! Nylon nuts is what I meant! Nuts I say SS NUTS!

TMCNo1
10-02-2006, 03:34 PM
S/S Nyloc nuts! Look in the Yellow pages under "Nut, Bolts, Fasteners," most every town has a fastener outlet for the residential/commercial/industrial community, plus you have Lowe's, Home Depot, Fastenal, Ace, True Value Hardware stores. We have a company in our region called "Automotive Fasterners" that carries everything you would ever have a need for!

Hoosier Bob
10-02-2006, 03:36 PM
Not you too?:mad:

TMCNo1
10-02-2006, 03:42 PM
Not you too?:mad:
Yep, spearanced it!:eek:

bigmac
10-02-2006, 04:01 PM
He is beaing an Arse Mac! Nylon nuts is what I meant! Nuts I say SS NUTS!

;)

It worries me that I knew exactly what you were talking about, and that I appear to be the only one...:D

Idahowater
10-02-2006, 04:10 PM
;)

It worries me that I knew exactly what you were talking about, and that I appear to be the only one...:D
I knew what you were talking about also. I'm not worried, I just figure is was because I was raised on a farm.

Hoosier Bob
10-02-2006, 05:09 PM
I was BEAING an illiterate! WHAT was that? Sorry for my not being able to spell being!:o ;)

It worries me that I knew exactly what you were talking about, and that I appear to be the only one...:D

Workin' 4 Toys
10-02-2006, 06:01 PM
Let me clarify where the issue at hand went sour...... There was no misspelling or illiteracy of any sort here...........
SS flathead screws and SS washers with SS nylon bolts
Now to threadjack this even further, I think there is a reason they use RIVETS. Something to do with the "give" they allow. I could be mistaken.....

Workin' 4 Toys
10-02-2006, 06:01 PM
Whoops..........Forgot the 8p 8p 8p HB!!!

bigmac
10-02-2006, 06:41 PM
Let me clarify where the issue at hand went sour...... There was no misspelling or illiteracy of any sort here...........

Now to threadjack this even further, I think there is a reason they use RIVETS. Something to do with the "give" they allow. I could be mistaken.....

Ah. Nuts, not bolts. Apparently HB's brain and mine are on the same wavelength.

My boat uses screws to hold all that rub rail and deck/hull together, but I think they're stainless steel, not nylon.


;)

Hoosier Bob
10-02-2006, 07:12 PM
You are correct sir! I believe the rivets not only break free upon impact but also are a much quicker install. They loosen after time and become a big problem. I chose to go all or none with some flathead SS bolts, SS washers and SS Nyloc NUTZ! Much better and much tighter. Not much if any give but I doubt the rivets would have saved any damage. I also suspect the rivet use is more of an excuse (GIVE) to save time and money over the alternative.
Thanks for clearing that one up WFT, PS I was sober when I wrote that and I have since had time to recover!8p 8p 8p

TMCNo1
10-02-2006, 07:41 PM
You are correct sir! I believe the rivets not only break free upon impact but also are a much quicker install. They loosen after time and become a big problem. I chose to go all or none with some flathead SS bolts, SS washers and SS Nyloc NUTZ! Much better and much tighter. Not much if any give but I doubt the rivets would have saved any damage. I also suspect the rivet use is more of an excuse (GIVE) to save time and money over the alternative.
Thanks for clearing that one up WFT, PS I was sober when I wrote that and I have since had time to recover!
:uglyhamme :uglyhamme :uglyhamme

TMCNo1
10-02-2006, 07:56 PM
It's all good Bob! It's just like an alarm clock under construction!

Hoosier Bob
10-02-2006, 08:19 PM
I thought of you as well! Notice I said NYLOC!8p
Wow! I had forgotten how much fun it is to totally derail a thread!
Sorry guys! Fix your freakin' rubrail already!:D

TMCNo1
10-02-2006, 08:48 PM
I thought of you as well! Notice I said NYLOC!
Wow! I had forgotten how much fun it is to totally derail a thread!
Sorry guys! Fix your freakin' rubrail already!


You did good Bob, you stayed in a Holiday Inn Express last night!
Mastercraft Boats and everything that relates to them, DERAIL, RUBRAIL, GRABRAIL it all goes together like sardines and whipped cream!:eek: :uglyhamme :popcorn:

Workin' 4 Toys
10-03-2006, 08:56 AM
I think there is a better reason to use rivets on boats than just saving time. I have never built a boat from scratch yet, but I'd have to think there is more to the theory than just saving time.
And so far I might agree on two things in this thread, one its the rubrail leaking, two the use of stainless steel hardware is a good idea. As far as the rest goes, I am out of touch.
I am not sure where the sardines, whipcream, and alarm clocks fit into the equation.:confused: But you guys have your fun.8p