View Full Version : Transmission Leak '89 PS190
12-02-2004, 05:47 PM
I have discovered the apparent location of a leak on my Velvet drive. It seems to leak from the rear (nearest shaft) seal area. During 4-6 hours of driving, it generally has leaked down to the point that I notice the gear box slipping. Is this rear seal a common location for a leak or could I be looking at the down hill slope of another leak somewhere. How difficult is it to change this bearing/seal if in fact that is the source of the leak.
12-02-2004, 06:51 PM
I did the front and rear seals in my transmission a couple of years ago. It wasn't leaking as bad as yours, but I could color a bilge diaper red in one afternoon.
It's not too bad to replace. I pulled the entire engine out since I needed to do the oil pan gasket. Pulling the entire engine is pretty easy if you have access to a lift. Unbolt the prop shaft coupler to the tranny, remove the electrical connection, remove the shift and throttle linkages and remove the fuel line. Unbolt the mounts from the stringers and pull straight up...
I've been told that to just remove the tranny you can unbolt the rear two mounts (that the tranny sits on), unbolt the propshaft at the coupler, then tip the engine forward enough to get a couple of wood block under it to sit on. Then you can unbold the tranny and slide it off. I'm sure others can help out here.
As for the seals. About $5. Just get a seal puller tool (looks like a dental pick) pull out the old seals and put on the new ones. Takes about 10 minutes once you can see the input and output shafts. If you think you just have the rear seal, you can probably do all this without removing the tranny at all.
You might want to get a manual. SkiDIM has them. There are also pretty good marine tranny shops around. There is one near Boston that had my parts and manuals. I can look the contact info up if need be.
12-06-2004, 09:42 AM
Thanks for the help and insight, Scott. I beleive I will attempt to remove just the transmission first with the wooden block support idea. Regarding the replacement of the seals on the tranny, would I merely pull the shaft out of the transmission (once uncoupled from the prop shaft)? Do you know if there are any special tools required to pull the shaft and then again, any special tools or procedures to follow to put the shaft back in the tranny. I will certainly buy a manual once I find the correct one. Someone told me that Clymer had good manuals - I'll see if they have one on this model Velvet Drive. Thanks again!
12-06-2004, 11:58 AM
I pulled my tranny last season. It wasn't hard at all & 2 of us easily got it out of the boat by hand.
I didn't do any work to it though, so I can't help you out there. We did it as a pre-curser to removing the motor. It shouldn't take you more than 30 mintues to pull the tranny with 2 people. No special tools to pull the tranny. Not sure about the rest.
12-06-2004, 08:19 PM
I don't recall removing the shaft to get the seal off. I think the coupler was keyed to the shaft somehow and was easily removed. Then it was a simple matter of pulling the old seal off and slipping the new one on.
I got a manual from Atlantis Marine Gear Supply 978-887-0001 here in Massachusetts. They can send you a manual and any parts and can probably describe what you need to do if you ask.
12-06-2004, 09:50 PM
If you are looking for a good manual, Indmar has one that is for the 351 Ford and it includes the Velvet Drive transmission. You can order it through Indmar for $30.
01-09-2005, 02:27 PM
Thanks for the advise on getting a manual from Indmar. Got the manual, studied what I needed to do in order to remove the tranmission. Once I reviewed all of the components, I determined that the leak that I had was most likely the rear seal on the reduction unit. I attempted to remove the coupler flange without lifting the engine, however, it turns out I needed to raise the engine about 3 inches so that the coupler on the reduction unit would clear the mating coupler on the prop shaft. Anyway, I got the couple off and begain to remove the oil seal. It does not appear to remove easily and seems to be stuck to the outter edge of the reduction unit housing. Is this normal and should I have to rei and tear the old oil seal out of place?? Or is there a correct way to remove the old seal. The manual indicates that there is an earlier production unit, however, the best I can figure is that I have the "normal" production unit so the part number for the oil seal should be 10-00-044-017. Anyway, any suggestions on removing the old oil seal on the reduction unit? And then once I have the old one off and am putting the new one on, will that just press in place or will I need a special tool to insert the new seal. Thanks again for all the help so far.
01-11-2005, 01:45 PM
Not sure if anyone is really interested in this but perhaps there will be someone in the future that is trying to do the same thing as I and this will act as an information thread. I was able to remove the existing oil seal, this unit ( a 1989 model) is the "current" production according to the repair manual. To remove the old oil seal, I used channel-lock pliers the grab the lip of the rubber coated outer ring of the oil seal and gradually pulled the ring (oil seal) out. The diameter is about 3-1/4 inches. The inside diameter of the oil seal seats against the coupler which is where the actual "seal" takes place. Turns out that once I began to examine my coupler (on the tranny side) I noticed that the surface where the oil seal makes contact was very rough. I suppose an older seal over time had cause abbrasions on the surface of the coupler. I'm sure that this is what has caused the tranny fluid leak and I suspect that once I smooth the surface of the coupler and install the new seal, there will be no more leak. I have not reassembled yet (waiting on replacement seal). Hopefully I can report back when the project is completed and let you know if that in fact cured the leaky transmission.
01-11-2005, 07:17 PM
Chuck, try not to remove very much material as you will reduce the outside diameter of the shaft and it might not contact the seal correctly..