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DooSPX
09-22-2006, 05:47 PM
here are some pics of my teak platform. I can not get it to come out the way I want it.
in the pics you can see how the wood has streaks and how alot of the wood is REALLY dark, and others are rich golden color.
why????
Please help.... I think the streaks in the wood bother me the most.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b80/DooSPX/DSC00168.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b80/DooSPX/DSC00165.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b80/DooSPX/DSC00159.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b80/DooSPX/DSC00167.jpg

MarkP
09-22-2006, 05:52 PM
Did you run out of sandpaper??
Hate to say this but start over. Do you have access to a planer??

DooSPX
09-22-2006, 05:57 PM
i sanded in between coats...
I have to check to see if I have a planer, I may be able to barrow one though.
what do you think is causing it mark? the streaks and the really dark wood??

east tx skier
09-22-2006, 06:01 PM
What kind of teak oil are you using?

MarkP
09-22-2006, 06:02 PM
i sanded in between coats...
I have to check to see if I have a planer, I may be able to barrow one though.
what do you think is causing it mark? the streaks and the really dark wood??You dont want to hear it..:(

Archimedes
09-22-2006, 06:03 PM
What kind of teak oil are you using?

That was going to be my question. That platform looks really odd. I've never had my platforms come out looking like that. It looks lacquered.

DooSPX
09-22-2006, 06:08 PM
Watco teak oil


Mark, I do... please tell me

MarkP
09-22-2006, 06:10 PM
Watco teak oil


Mark, I do... please tell me
You need to put that thing on some sawhorses and scrub that oil off with mineral spirits and a brush. Then with a bucket of soapy water and a brush. After it dries,
SAND THE HEII out of it! Be aggressive! You can start with 60 then 80.
It looks like it wasnít ready for oil when you started.. (not sanded well enough in some spots)..

DooSPX
09-22-2006, 06:14 PM
darn... okay, guess i will have to do that then...

robisjo
09-22-2006, 06:18 PM
I believe that dark spots are generally caused by applying teak oil to wet teak. Is this correct?

east tx skier
09-22-2006, 06:19 PM
Watco teak oil

That's what I thought. Get plain old Starbrite. Amazon works well, too. Sand it down and reapply. I've used that Watco stuff from Home Depot once, too, and it looked similar to what you're seeing.

Here's what Amazon looks like.

MarkP
09-22-2006, 06:20 PM
Watco teak oil


Mark, I do... please tell meYou still have my #

MarkP
09-22-2006, 06:21 PM
You know, your Inspiring me to re do my old one. It got abused a little because I knew I was going to make a new one, (no re do over the winter and no/little oil this season)..
If you want to, we can do them at the same time.. We see your before shots, (don’t forget to get the shots of the cleaning). I’m embarrassed to show my old one but let me know when We are ready to sand and I will..
Don’t put any oil on that thing till you clear through this thread.http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/images/icons/icon12.gif.

east tx skier
09-22-2006, 06:28 PM
Another thing you can do to prep the wood is get that starbrite three step. After you sand, there's a cleaner and a conditioner before you hit it with the oil. I use it whenever I have occasion to sand it all the way down.

MarkP
09-22-2006, 06:35 PM
Another thing you can do to prep the wood is get that starbrite three step. After you sand, there's a cleaner and a conditioner before you hit it with the oil. I use it whenever I have occasion to sand it all the way down.
Iím not a big fan of the three step stuff. Actually what makes/made yours look so good was the work you put in sanding before oiling..

DooSPX
09-22-2006, 06:46 PM
Yes, mark i have your # still.
sounds good, I will let you know when I get a chance to clean, and sand, and oil. and take pics too.

east tx skier
09-22-2006, 06:51 PM
Iím not a big fan of the three step stuff. Actually what makes/made yours look so good was the work you put in sanding before oiling..


Not absolutely nuts with the sanding.

One hit with a power sander. One hit with some coarse steel wool. One hit with medium steel wool. Coat of oil. Wipe off the excess. Let it dry in the sun. Light hit with the fine grade steel wool. Coat of oil, etc.

After about four coats, I lightly hit it with the finishing (zero) steel wool and called it a day. I could go the TMCNo.1 2000 grade sandpaper and have it look like beautiful antique furniture, but I'm just going to jump off it with my ski on anyway.

As the 3 step goes, I had more success with it this time. I think the brightener does well with bringing out the grain pattern. The cleaner I could easily replace with a trip to the car wash and a good hit with the spray wand.

TMCNo1
09-22-2006, 07:03 PM
Teak is a naturally oily wood, therefore the dark strips in the wood and the darker pieces of wood have a heavier natural oil content, which makes it darker. It is just the nature of the beast, kind of like knots in pine wood and that part of the wood is heavier, is dark and is used for kindeling to start fires, because of the high resin [oil] in the wood.

trickskier
09-22-2006, 07:21 PM
Another thing you can do to prep the wood is get that starbrite three step. After you sand, there's a cleaner and a conditioner before you hit it with the oil. I use it whenever I have occasion to sand it all the way down.

Very nice Platform Easty....I'll send you pics of mine when I'm finished.

JDK
09-22-2006, 07:49 PM
I had absolutely excellent success with the Star-Brite 3 step kit. My platform came out looking almost like new. I didn't follow their directions though.....I added one step.
1) Cleaner - leave it on for ~20 mins.
2) Stiff Wire Brush - brush very very hard and aggresively, with the grain, with a garden hose running running ontop of the brush at all times (this took close to 2 hrs. and was A LOT of work). It was odd, but the brush wouldn't do much without the water running.
3) Brightener - leave on for 20 mins.
4) Let dry and add 2 or 3 coats of oil.

I was pretty leery about brushing so hard....thinking I may be damaging the wood, but as long as you stay WITH the grain and kept the water flowing, you can't see ANY marks.
I don't have a pic. but I was amazed how this turned out.

TMCNo1
09-22-2006, 08:15 PM
Starbrite Teak Oil,

stevo137
09-22-2006, 09:27 PM
Watco teak oil


Mark, I do... please tell me
I used Watco and it always was easy to use and looked great...

DooSPX
09-22-2006, 10:40 PM
I think the dark color is because of I need to cut the first layer of teak off. I think after a cleaning, and sanding the Heck out of it. It will look good.

Sodar
09-22-2006, 10:52 PM
When you buy a new MC with a teak step, does it have oil on it or is it just natural? The reason I ask is because I do not want to have my teak shiny, I want it to look natural, yet still be dark. Is this even possible?

TMCNo1
09-23-2006, 08:21 AM
When you buy a new MC with a teak step, does it have oil on it or is it just natural? The reason I ask is because I do not want to have my teak shiny, I want it to look natural, yet still be dark. Is this even possible?


After a platform is made a coat of some type teak oil is applied to all of them to condition the wood after cutting, sanding, routing. cleaning, etc., mainly to keep it looking good till it finds a new home. Then it is the responsibility of the new owner to maintain at their desired level.

SkiDog
09-23-2006, 10:01 AM
After a platform is made a coat of some type teak oil is applied to all of them to condition the wood after cutting, sanding, routing. cleaning, etc., mainly to keep it looking good till it finds a new home. Then it is the responsibility of the new owner to maintain at their desired level.

Ya'll better listen to MASTER OF ALL TEAK! What he say's is the gospel! And then some! However, I would like to give my 2 cents. Take it to a professional furniture stripper/refinisher and let THEM doing the stripping. It will save a WHOLE lot of time and not cost hardly anything. Then take these guys advice on what teak products to use! If anybody in this forum knows, its TMC#1!

6ballsisall
09-23-2006, 10:05 AM
I use Watco oil and mine looks good IMO. Others have seen it.....

I'd say as others have. Sand the living S*** out of it starting with large grit, like 80 grit and work your way up to 300 grit or smaller. Multiple coats of each paper may be necessary. After thats complete use some cheese cloth and make SURE you get ALL the dust off. Then a few LIGHT coats of oil and she'll be good as new!! :cool:

DooSPX
09-23-2006, 11:47 AM
jrandol, can you post a pic of your platform please?

6ballsisall
09-23-2006, 12:29 PM
jrandol, can you post a pic of your platform please?

Sure....I'll try and remember to take a pic of one this evening.

DooSPX
09-23-2006, 02:09 PM
thanks Jr !!!

205V
09-24-2006, 12:35 AM
And how often does one have to teal their platform? At the end of each season?

88 PS190
09-24-2006, 12:38 AM
I do my teak weekly if its on the lift.

You don't have to do all the labor to keep up with it, but if you let it go long you have to do the full course.

One thing to note, most teak oils don't have any "teak" oil in them. They are mainly boiled linseed oil with perhaps a bit of teak oil, real Teak oil is way expensive and if its in the product it will tell you its in there.

(not in star brite)

additionally environmental differences effect how weathering and the finish will look, so if you want good teak, find someone local who has good teak and ask them.

I saw a boat at the local marina, turns out he uses Maguires golden teak oil, works great for me.
Varies depending where you're at.

MarkP
09-24-2006, 12:43 AM
After a platform is made a coat of some type teak oil is applied to all of them to condition the wood after cutting, sanding, routing. cleaning, etc., mainly to keep it looking good till it finds a new home. Then it is the responsibility of the new owner to maintain at their desired level.
They put Linseed Oil on the new platforms.;) .

6ballsisall
09-25-2006, 03:04 PM
Doo, here is a pic of my 95 (sniffle, sniffle, I miss her :( ) I used the same process on this one as I did on my X7. I'll keep diggin, I know I have pics of the X7 platform on here.

DooSPX
09-25-2006, 07:53 PM
JR, what process do you use... that looks nice

6ballsisall
09-25-2006, 07:57 PM
JR, what process do you use... that looks nice

Started w/ 50 grit. Did that twice
Went to 80 grit twice
100 grit twice
200 grit twice

Then used the 3 stage starbright cleaner kit. (teak cleaner, teak brightener, teak oil)

Thats after 25 hours of use. All I do to maintain it like you see there is Watco teak oil. Apply it with a rag and let it sit overnight. Good to go!

6ballsisall
09-25-2006, 08:00 PM
Forgot to add ^^^^ don't forget a six pack :D

DooSPX
09-25-2006, 08:01 PM
when you first applied the the oil, did you wipe it off before it dries? I think that is what gave mine the varnish look finish....

88 PS190
09-25-2006, 08:16 PM
varnish look is likely due to using one w/ a sealer in it.

If you use plain oil it shouldn't varnish up.

ragging off should be even more of a matte finish

1boarder
09-25-2006, 08:35 PM
I clean the platform with Borax and a stiff bristle brush. Let it dry and then just use starbright teak. Its quick and easy and does a good job.

6ballsisall
09-25-2006, 10:20 PM
when you first applied the the oil, did you wipe it off before it dries? I think that is what gave mine the varnish look finish....


No. I apply with a shop rag just enough to give it a wet look, not thick. Let it dry and if necessary apply another coat. The more I think about it, I remember after doing all the sanding etc... I put 3 or 4 coats on before it wouldnt absorb any more. Letting it bake in the hot sun after applying works great!

Some complain about my X7 platform being to slick but I like it that way. It's not slick IMO to the point of being unsafe but it feels smooth on your feet which I like

helilogistics
09-25-2006, 10:41 PM
I got a little carried away with mine as it was a mess. I disassembled it entirely (making sure I numbered all the pieces on the underside first). I put all the bits and pieces through a thickness planer on the topside only...just take off enough to expose new wood! Then I reassembled everthing and used a belt sander to fair it out...plus a bit of hand sanding down to about 400 grit. Three or four coats of Watco Teak oil and it is like new. The whole process should take 6-8 hours or a weekend project. Throughout the summer I wipe on light coat every week or so to maintain it and it stays purty...don't let it dry out. Teak is high maintainance stuff.

east tx skier
09-26-2006, 12:27 AM
when you first applied the the oil, did you wipe it off before it dries? I think that is what gave mine the varnish look finish....

I wipe off the excess. With a stain, that could lead to a darker color. Not sure about teak. After the last coat, I hit it with a very fine (zero) steel wool to take the slick out of it. It still shines, but whatever slick finish is left seems to just wash away in a few minutes after it gets wet. I tend not to mess with it until the next year after that.

Leroy
09-26-2006, 12:50 AM
I put my teak oil in a spray bottle and find that much easier to apply. I was always pouring on the wood and watching it flow through or soaking rags with expensive oil.

THat is after you have prep'd the teak by sanding, etc. I normally use a sander like below.

Leroy
09-26-2006, 12:58 AM
Gets pretty rough, has been referred to as a fish skinning board....

Leroy
09-26-2006, 12:59 AM
Always cleans up pretty easily. I need to do couple of times a year for some reason.

99xstar
09-26-2006, 11:17 AM
For a really dirty (neglected) deck, would pressure washing be a good first step?

east tx skier
09-26-2006, 11:36 AM
In the past, TMCNo.1 has mentioned taking it to the carwash and hitting it with the wand to get rid of mildew.

TMCNo1
09-26-2006, 12:56 PM
In the past, TMCNo.1 has mentioned taking it to the carwash and hitting it with the wand to get rid of mildew.


Bleach it first, then hit it with the wand to get the ground in junk out of the cracks between the slats and the bleach off.