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View Full Version : Running water through engine without muff, any idea ?


boatless
09-20-2006, 01:13 PM
Instead of getting one of these muff that we put under the boat where the water intake to run the boat out of the lake. Is there any other way to do it ? Can I just detach the hose where the intake at and put it in a bucket of water ? That way the engine can just suck up the water by itself.

More info would be great.

Thanks,

boatless.

bigmac
09-20-2006, 01:28 PM
Instead of getting one of these muff that we put under the boat where the water intake to run the boat out of the lake. Is there any other way to do it ? Can I just detach the hose where the intake at and put it in a bucket of water ? That way the engine can just suck up the water by itself.

More info would be great.

Thanks,

boatless.

Yup, although that intake will suck up water out of the bucket at a very substantial rate - emptying the bucket in about 10 seconds - so if you do it that way, run your hose in the bucket so it's being filled at the same rate it's being emptied by your raw water pump. Also, you may find that your intake hose isn't long enough to reach into a bucket.

I made a fitting for about $8 from parts at the hardware store and put it into the 1 1/4 intake hose after I detach it from the intake fitting.

http://mccollister.info/fitting.jpg

I then can connect the intake directly up to a garden hose and start 'er up. After the engine is warm, I put the intake hose into a 5-gal bucket of -50 RV antifreeze with some 3/4 inch non-collapsing spa tubing with garden hose fittings installed, and while it's sucking that out, I spray fogging oil liberally into the intake, killing the engine at about the same time the bucket runs out of antifreeze. Then I drain the block, exhaust, water hoses, and heater lines, then I pump antifreeze through the heater core.

boatless
09-20-2006, 01:34 PM
bigmac,
Thanks for the info and the picture, I'll do exactly just that.

boatless.

jimmer2880
09-21-2006, 07:02 AM
or - some here will run the hose into the bucket, then run their garden hose into the same bucket. That way they can monitor how much water is going through the motor.

I've always done the direct hookup method though.

DooSPX
09-21-2006, 03:07 PM
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b80/DooSPX/DSC00157.jpg

here is mine, inline before the trans cooler

jimmer2880
09-22-2006, 07:51 AM
here is mine, inline before the trans cooler

how do you keep the water from running back out your intake? I've been thinking about the same thing, but couldn't figure out how to keep it from going the wrong way. Of course, I could add a ball-valve, but then, that would be too many fittings for my piece of mind.

DooSPX
09-22-2006, 09:53 AM
you see the gray piece, there is a handle that attaches on the little knob thing. I just dont have it hooked up because I dont want to loose the handle. I just close the valve right there and it pushes water through the raw waterpump, instead of allowing it to go back out the water intake.

boatless
09-27-2006, 01:39 PM
DooSPX,

Just try not to forget to unclose it when using the boat.

boatless.

DooSPX
09-27-2006, 08:41 PM
its been like that for years now...

helilogistics
09-27-2006, 10:10 PM
just wondering...after you drain the manifolds, trans cooler, waterpump and remove the anti knock sensor on the side of the block to drain it...is there any need to do the antifreeze thing?

bigmac
09-27-2006, 11:12 PM
just wondering...after you drain the manifolds, trans cooler, waterpump and remove the anti knock sensor on the side of the block to drain it...is there any need to do the antifreeze thing?

Aha! Excellent question!

Uh...the answer is...uh..."probably not"...IMHO.

I think the concept is to make sure that the little water puddles that are inevitably left behind won't freeze. Note that RV antifreeze, which is available everywhere and real cheap is good to -50, but contains absolutely no corrosion inhibitors (except maybe a little phosphate) since they are for winterizing potable water systems. There are other "non-toxic" propylene glycol-based antifreezes that DO have corrosion inhibitors (-60 and -100) but they tend to be kind of expensive.

I'd add to your list above that not only the knock sensor, but the corresponding block plug on the other side has to be removed too. Also, the cover ought to come off the impeller and the starter bumped to clear the RW pump. The heater core has to be cleared - at least with air but prefereably antifreeze. Likewise the shower and ballast pumps.

edwinfuqua
09-28-2006, 12:16 AM
Instead of getting one of these muff that we put under the boat where the water intake to run the boat out of the lake. Is there any other way to do it ? Can I just detach the hose where the intake at and put it in a bucket of water ? That way the engine can just suck up the water by itself.

More info would be great.

Thanks,

boatless.

Get a recirculating system. You will still need a source of cooling water unless you have figured a way to cool by air after you installed the recirculating system.

Sounds like to me that you are really 'boatless' and are looking for a car on the water. Have you considered other things like... give it some imageanaton.

Edwin