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View Full Version : Winterzing questions


point1234
09-18-2006, 01:12 PM
Iam going to be taking the boat to the dealers to get winterized. But my quetions is what are some of the other things that people do to there boat other than the usual mechanical winterizing. Boat will be kept indoor in a shed. with the cover on it. and iam going to take all stuff out of the boat that dosent need to be there like life jackets. going to wash and wax inside and out. 303 all vinyl.

Just looking to see what other people do to there boats.

mika
09-18-2006, 01:27 PM
Well some of the things I would consider. Shaft alignment, trans fluid change, prop repair. Basically do what you need to do so that your boat will require little work to get it on the water. Once the season gets here the last thing you want to do is waste a weekend getting it back on the water when you could be skiing/wakeboarding. I also suggest learing to winterize yourself, as I am going to this fall. This way you get to spend a lot of time with your boat looking at things you might miss and you can spot what could be an early problem. Not to mention if you cant be on the water it is still fun to be working on your boat, :).

east tx skier
09-18-2006, 01:30 PM
Here's what I do.

Link (http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=103139&postcount=6).

ontrider
09-18-2006, 01:36 PM
I'm actually in the middle of building a temporary garage for my boat to be stored under during the winter, but it will be closed in by tarps instead of walls. My question is, what should I do about animals getting in and using it as their personal den? Or rodents. I've heard dryer sheets for rodents, and the other thing I'd worry about are raccoons. I've heard you can buy 'coyote urine powder' and things like that... does this stuff actually work, or is there something better I could do?

east tx skier
09-18-2006, 01:41 PM
The joke goes that a nice delicious bowl of antifreeze will take care of everything.

Put some duck tape over the exhaust flaps and cince that cover down tight. Heard the same, but have no experience with dryer sheets.

ontrider
09-18-2006, 01:48 PM
The joke goes that a nice delicious bowl of antifreeze will take care of everything.

Put some duck tape over the exhaust flaps and cince that cover down tight. Heard the same, but have no experience with dryer sheets.

Anti-freeze it is then! ;) :D

chudson
09-18-2006, 02:34 PM
Dryer sheets are a joke, we've thrown them all over the floor board and interior of our grain trucks and the mice just use it to poop on, as a matter of fact I think they like it!!! As far as 'coyote urine powder' I've not heard of that, but doesn't mean it's not out there. I buy this bucket of mouse and rat poisin (might be at Walmart) and put three table spoons into a little zip lock bag roll it up to get the air out and spread them all around my farm inside of the buildings keeping it out of reach of my pets and I don't have any problem with mice (knock on wood). As far as the bigger pests go I have, and don't laugh, bought a strobe light at at store at the mall like Spencers and put it on a timer with and old boom box and place it in the barn where I store the boat and I have not had a problem with that either. Now I do live in the country so I can do the boom box thing with no problem. Well theres a few suggestions, good luck!!!

meggsy1221@aol.com
09-23-2006, 01:32 PM
I'm having a terrible time with a dealer getting my 205 winterizied first I travelled a considerable distance to drop it off. When I went to pick it up I was told the work hadn't been started yet, and to pick it up next week!! I told them in no uncertain terms how disappointed I was. I asked about fogging the engine they said MC doesn't recommend fogging. I asked what does Indmar recommend? They said if you can believe this!! who's Indmar. So to all owners who take their boats to a dealer DO YOUR HOME WORK FIRST!! This will be the last time someone else does the winterizing for me. There is enough information and support on this site to help owners, who choose to do their own winterizing.

JimN
09-23-2006, 04:29 PM
Moth balls are good for keeping some critters out.

Re: the anti-freeze- you want dead animals in your boat? I don't. Better to keep them out in the first place. Also, it's a really bad way to die so do what you want but I would also want to keep anti-freeze off of the carpet.

The propshaft needs to be checked at the regular interval or if the prop has hit something but not as an annual winterization step. All fluid and filters need changing, fogging IS needed, something on metal surfaces to keep corrosion from being an issue, cleaning, wax, something to inhibit mildew, good cover with vents so it can breathe and not have a condensation problem, lube the starter Bendix shaft and gear.

That dealer in Alberta needs to pull their head out and get with the program. MC needs to hear about them, too. NOW!

buffskier
10-11-2006, 03:37 PM
here comes a dumb one.

In the helpful posts on winterizing, it says to drain the block, then flush the engine. Do I do this flush with the plugs still out, and if yes, where does all the water go (straight to the bilge, or all over hte boat interior)

Any help with the why on this would be appreciated.

Also, how do I get the impeller out of the water pump.

Thanks in advance

east tx skier
10-11-2006, 04:01 PM
Can you be more specific as to "flushing the engine" as part of a winterization procedure? Which post are you talking about?

bigmac
10-11-2006, 04:31 PM
After you get the boat back from being winterized at the dealer, I'd drain and blow out the heater core (if you have one). Tape the exhaust flaps shut. Lube the starter pinion. Cover the boat and lay dryer sheets around the interior and bilge (I think they work against critters, but even if they don't there's no downside to that 2 dollar investment and it does leave your boat smelling springtime fresh...). I also leave several D-Con boxes around the storage shed where the dogs can't get to 'em. I'd put a turbo-dryer (http://www.overtons.com/modperl/overtons/detail/pdetail2.cgi?r=detail_view&item_num=71503&fcat=) in under the cover and leave it running all winter to prevent mold in the interior. I'd also get a float charger and put it on the battery, again leaving it attached all winter (I think it's pointless to remove, or even disconnect, the battery).

I'd scrub the boat down with Slimy Grimy (http://slimygrimy.com/) (best non-acid boat wash I've ever used), then apply Rejex (http://www.corrosionx.com/rejex.html) (best hull-protection I've ever used for stopping water spotting and other things from sticking).

I agree with shaft alignment - having them check it won't cost you much at all unless they actually do have to re-align it. You might consider changing the raw water pump impeller - pull it with an impeller-puller (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearchView?catalogId=10001&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchallpartial&keyword=impeller&Ntt=impeller&N=0&y=0&x=0&storeId=10001&Ntk=All_2&ddkey=SiteSearch), or grab with a needle-nose vise-grip. Use food-grade silicone lube in the spring to get the new one back in - it persists better than soap and will prevent an impeller-shredding dry start for that first engine-start of the spring. If you buy your impeller from SkiDim, it will come with an extra gasket and a little tube of such silicone. Buy some extra raw water pump cover bolts (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=68-5005) - they're brass, soft, and you'll be disappointed if you snap one of the only 4 you have (not a typical hardware store item).

beatle78
10-11-2006, 05:11 PM
welcome buffskier,

put the plugs back in and then flush..... youn want the coolant to exit the same way the water does when the engine is running.....

buffskier
10-11-2006, 06:00 PM
what is the purpose of flushing? Is it to get the lake water out? Why is tap water better than lake water?

east tx skier
10-11-2006, 06:06 PM
what is the purpose of flushing? Is it to get the lake water out? Why is tap water better than lake water?

This is why I asked which post you were talking about. There are steps where I run the boat on the hose to bring it up to temp before fluid changes and to fog it. The method by which some add antifreeze to the engine could be referred to as flushing, but just flushing for the sake of flushing it, unless you run the boat in salt water, really isn't a crucial part of winterization unless there is something in the lake water that you want to get of the block.

JimN
10-11-2006, 08:16 PM
"Why is tap water better than lake water?"

Because there's seldom silt and pieces of weeds in tapwater. You want to get that kind of stuff out instead of letting it settle and solidify. If there's enough silt and gunge at the bottom of the water jacket, anti-freeze won't displace it and if there's enough of it, it's more likely for the block to crack.

jimmer2880
10-16-2006, 06:59 AM
After you get the boat back from being winterized at the dealer, I'd drain and blow out the heater core (if you have one). Tape the exhaust flaps shut. Lube the starter pinion. Cover the boat and lay dryer sheets around the interior and bilge (I think they work against critters, but even if they don't there's no downside to that 2 dollar investment and it does leave your boat smelling springtime fresh...). I also leave several D-Con boxes around the storage shed where the dogs can't get to 'em. I'd put a turbo-dryer (http://www.overtons.com/modperl/overtons/detail/pdetail2.cgi?r=detail_view&item_num=71503&fcat=) in under the cover and leave it running all winter to prevent mold in the interior. I'd also get a float charger and put it on the battery, again leaving it attached all winter (I think it's pointless to remove, or even disconnect, the battery).

I'd scrub the boat down with Slimy Grimy (http://slimygrimy.com/) (best non-acid boat wash I've ever used), then apply Rejex (http://www.corrosionx.com/rejex.html) (best hull-protection I've ever used for stopping water spotting and other things from sticking).

I agree with shaft alignment - having them check it won't cost you much at all unless they actually do have to re-align it. You might consider changing the raw water pump impeller - pull it with an impeller-puller (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearchView?catalogId=10001&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchallpartial&keyword=impeller&Ntt=impeller&N=0&y=0&x=0&storeId=10001&Ntk=All_2&ddkey=SiteSearch), or grab with a needle-nose vise-grip. Use food-grade silicone lube in the spring to get the new one back in - it persists better than soap and will prevent an impeller-shredding dry start for that first engine-start of the spring. If you buy your impeller from SkiDim, it will come with an extra gasket and a little tube of such silicone. Buy some extra raw water pump cover bolts (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=68-5005) - they're brass, soft, and you'll be disappointed if you snap one of the only 4 you have (not a typical hardware store item).

I hate to nit-pick.... but - slimy grimy is acid - or it was 6 years ago when I was using it regularly. They state no acid marks, but do not state that it's not acid. If I remember correctly, it's occilic (spelling nazi, pls help) acid.

Now that I said that, the only reason why I stopped using it is because I have a lift & don't need to use anything other than a towel now. It absolutely is wonderful stuff.

bigmac
10-16-2006, 09:05 AM
I hate to nit-pick.... but - slimy grimy is acid - or it was 6 years ago when I was using it regularly. They state no acid marks, but do not state that it's not acid. If I remember correctly, it's occilic (spelling nazi, pls help) acid.

Now that I said that, the only reason why I stopped using it is because I have a lift & don't need to use anything other than a towel now. It absolutely is wonderful stuff.

Yeh, I can't find the MSDS online, but I suppose it is acid, probably oxalic acid. The concentration must be low enough that they don't have to lable it as such, and it doesn't require all the protective clothing, doesn't etch the driveway nor does it kill the grass. Anyway, good stuff.

JimN
10-16-2006, 11:09 AM
It is oxalic acid and it's one of the mildest. Google it and an MSDS should be available. As with all other acids, be careful and take the usual precautions.