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View Full Version : Winterizing a Predator 310 horse with heater.


boatless
09-14-2006, 12:30 PM
Well, let me try this again.

I have a 2005 197 with a 310 horse Predator. A total of how many plugs and hoses do I have to disconnect to drain the engine ? And could you tell me where the plugs are located ? What kind of antifreeze should I use ? I was told not to use the pink.

My boat has a heater. What procedure should I follow to get the water out ?

I did look at the owner user guide but I feel that it just go through it in general.

Thank you so much in advance for your info.

boatless.

wiltok
09-14-2006, 12:34 PM
Many may disagree with me - but why risk doing it incorrectly and cracking the block? I winterized my boat myself one year - and had many sleepless winter nights worrying I had done it incorrectly (it was fine come spring).

I prefer to pay the $100 or whatever it is - then the marina takes on the liability. Just my .02....

Archimedes
09-14-2006, 12:36 PM
Many may disagree with me - but why risk doing it incorrectly and cracking the block? I winterized my boat myself one year - and had many sleepless winter nights worrying I had done it incorrectly (it was fine come spring).

I prefer to pay the $100 or whatever it is - then the marina takes on the liability. Just my .02....

It's not that hard to get all the water out of your motor. Now the heater core and the ballasts, I don't know, but it's simple to pull a few plugs and hoses each time you come in and there's no reasons for sleepless nights. If he's really worried, he should just get one of those electric engine compartment heaters as well and drop it in there on cold nights.

To the original poster, do you have your owner's manual? The plugs should be detailed there. If not, your dealer should be able to tell you which to pull.

east tx skier
09-14-2006, 12:52 PM
There is a plug on either side of the block. There are two more plugs, one each on the rear of the exhaust manifold riser (they may be connected by a quick release hose that swoops down over the transmission.

Some pictures here (http://www.aquaskier.com/articles/boat_storage_and_winterization.htm).

beef
09-14-2006, 12:53 PM
The best way to make sure that all of the water is out of the core is to remove both of the hoses at the engine and blow it out (I wouldn't use a compressor so's to not damage the core). After that, you can pour some RV antifreeze into one hose until it comes out of the other one if you want for insurance.

I installed some brass valves in my heater lines to be able to do this without disconnecting the hoses. That lets us ski later into the season without fear of a popped core.

boatless
09-14-2006, 12:55 PM
Archimedes,

Yes, I did look through the manual. But it has lack of pictures and the info are more in general than detail. Maybe you are right, I should ask the people at the dealer but that is where I might think they would not tell you all the stuff you need to know. Cause that would take all their business away. Just a thought.

wiltok,
I have to agree with you their. But I like to work on the toy I have, just to know more about it. I don't think it is hard, just want to hear from those that have done it before.

boatless.

boatless
09-14-2006, 01:00 PM
east tx skier,

I hate to say it, but came to my rescue again. :D Many thanks.

boatless.

boatless
09-20-2006, 12:08 PM
Well,
I was told to run the RV antifreeze through the motor and then drain the engine block. The information I got is from the dealer.

boatless.

6ballsisall
09-20-2006, 12:12 PM
Many may disagree with me - but why risk doing it incorrectly and cracking the block? I winterized my boat myself one year - and had many sleepless winter nights worrying I had done it incorrectly (it was fine come spring).

I prefer to pay the $100 or whatever it is - then the marina takes on the liability. Just my .02....


Dude if your dealer only charges $100 I am taking mine up that way!! Local dealer wanted $275 last year to winterize my PS190!!!

For $100 I'd have it done, my time is worth that for an hours work. More than that and I can do it myself. It's not hard and really shouldn't take more than an hour.

boatless
09-21-2006, 03:11 PM
Can some one tell me where do I get the Anti corrosion compound, such as PENZOIL MARINE Z-M. I stop by Napa and Walmart, none seem to have it. That is what my owner mannual telling me to use when cleaning the outside of the engine.

boatless.

east tx skier
09-21-2006, 03:22 PM
Can some one tell me where do I get the Anti corrosion compound, such as PENZOIL MARINE Z-M. I stop by Napa and Walmart, none seem to have it. That is what my owner mannual telling me to use when cleaning the outside of the engine.

boatless.

I use silicone lubricant on the engine.

boatless
09-21-2006, 03:34 PM
east tx skier,
Where do you get the stuff ? And what does the can looks like ?

Thanks,

boatless.

east tx skier
09-21-2006, 03:35 PM
I got it at NAPA. I want to say it's a blue can, but don't quote me.

peason
09-21-2006, 03:41 PM
You can also go to the Indmar website and download their engine manual for your year of engine. I have found this PDA document to be very handy.

http://www.indmar.com/support/manual_download.cfm

boatless
10-04-2006, 09:45 AM
Well, winterize the boat yesterday. After I drained all the water out, I close it all back up and ran pink antifeeze through the engine and drained again. Should be all good to go for the winter.

I ran into one problem, doesn't matter how many time I tried to remove the impeller. I just couldn't pride it out of the hole with a needle plier. It is pack tite in the raw water pump. How did you guy get your out ? I am afraid I might tear up the impeller by pulling it hard with a plier.

And one last question, I have a 2005 197 prostar with a 310 horse engine. It does not has a knock sencer, only to brass nuts on each side of the engine. What is the knock sencer for and why my does not equip with it ?

Thanks,

boatless.

east tx skier
10-04-2006, 10:21 AM
Try this. Take the plate off the front of your water pump. Squirt some soap and water all around the impeller. Pull the kill switch/safety lanyard, and spin the engine over for a few seconds. If this doesn't pop the impeller out, it should loosen it sufficiently for you to pull it out.

The knock sensor senses knocking or predetonation. If it does, it will send a signal to headquarters to retard the timing until the knocking ceases. The knock sensor should comprise some wires connected to the brass plug fitting that your removed from the starboard side of the block to drain the water.

bigmac
10-04-2006, 10:32 AM
Well, winterize the boat yesterday. After I drained all the water out, I close it all back up and ran pink antifeeze through the engine and drained again. Should be all good to go for the winter.

I ran into one problem, doesn't matter how many time I tried to remove the impeller. I just couldn't pride it out of the hole with a needle plier. It is pack tite in the raw water pump. How did you guy get your out ? I am afraid I might tear up the impeller by pulling it hard with a plier.


Dont forget to at least blow air, preferably pump RV antifreeze, through the heater core.

A new impeller is $30 including gasket. I'd be inclined to just put a new one in in the spring. Buy it from SkiDim - they include a little packet of silicone lube which facilitates getting the new one in and prevents the impeller from being damaged from that first dry start in the spring.

vogelm1
10-04-2006, 10:32 AM
Those impellers can be really stubborn... I wouldn't worry about damaging it since they should be replaced every season anyway. For about $20 it's good insurance just to buy a new one and keep the other in glove box for a spare. However, one trick is to disconnect the safety lanyard (the red lead you're supposed to attach to yourself in the event you fall overboard while operating) and turn over the engine for a short (one second?) burst with the cover off the impeller housing. That will usually cause it to move outward enough to get two paint can openers (they look like beer bottle openers with a little hook on the other end) behind it. One near the top and bottom, you usually have enough oomph to pull it free - be careful not to damage the housing.

Far as the knock sensor, if you don't have one - it's that much easier to drain that side of the block. The knock sensor detects pre-ignition and feeds a signal to the computer to adjust timing. Think pretty much all the fuel injected motors have them.

boatless
10-04-2006, 10:41 AM
Thanks everyone for getting back with the info.

One more question for the day. On a 197 prostar, how do I remove the engine cover box and the floor above the the steering and propeller mech ? I was thinking of doing some cleaning in there.

boatless.

east tx skier
10-04-2006, 11:07 AM
Not positive if it's the same for the 197, but on late 90s prostars, you just unscrewed the floor panel behind the motorbox. It was not connected to the floor to which the motorbox was attached as it was in previous years, i.e., 93.

boatless
10-04-2006, 04:10 PM
Hummm !! I don't see any screws on the floor board. :confused: From the look of the engine, there are not much change at all. Look pretty much the same late 90 and 2005. What is that silver plate with a black knob for ? I have it on my engine also.

boatless.

east tx skier
10-04-2006, 04:15 PM
Perfect Pass Servo.

You may just be able to lift up the floor panel.

boatless
10-05-2006, 09:50 AM
Dang !! Doesn't matter what I tried, the impeller would not pop. I spray some soap water in it crank the engine but no go. :mad: It did move forward just a little but that was it, tried to pull it out with a plier still it is not moving any. I would have to go to the hardware store and pick up two paint can opener then. :rolleyes: I might need some one to come over my place to hold my hand while I am taking the impeller out.

boatless.

east tx skier
10-05-2006, 10:35 AM
I don't pull mine until I'm ready to replace it in the spring. I just grab it with the pliers and yank it out. If it gets ruined, it gets ruined. They are a bear to pull out, but I haven't destroyed one yet.

boatless
10-05-2006, 11:56 AM
East,

Thanks, for the info. I don't intend to save the old one, I already bought a new for next season. It is just that the old one is pretty much stuck doesn't matter how hard I tried to pull it with a pliers. Maybe, I could try harder when I get home from work.

Thanks,

boatless.

JohnnyB
10-05-2006, 01:26 PM
You can buy an impeller puller from west marine that makes the job easy. Others have screwed two drywall screws into the rubber near the core and yanked it out with vice-grips.

JohnnyB
10-15-2006, 06:29 PM
Can some one tell me where do I get the Anti corrosion compound, such as PENZOIL MARINE Z-M. I stop by Napa and Walmart, none seem to have it. That is what my owner mannual telling me to use when cleaning the outside of the engine.

boatless.

Call Penzoil customer support (# avail on website) and ask who your local distributor is.

bigmac
10-15-2006, 06:44 PM
You can buy an impeller puller from west marine that makes the job easy. Others have screwed two drywall screws into the rubber near the core and yanked it out with vice-grips.

Impeller puller at West Marine (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearchView?catalogId=10001&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchallpartial&keyword=impeller+puller&Ntt=impeller+puller&N=0&storeId=10001&Ntk=All_2&ddkey=SiteSearch).

http://images.westmarine.com/full/11643_f.jpg