View Full Version : Removing heater core - 04 Maristar
bigmac
09-14-2006, 07:38 AM
Last evening I was foiling and noticed that the bilge pump was running a lot - unusual. When I got back in my boat, I noticed the driver's floor was very wet, and with hot water. I looked under the driver-side front seat cushion and saw water pouring down from the heater. It was kind of dark and I couldn't precisely see if it was coming from a hose connection or the actual unit itself, so I don't know yet what the source of the leak is. The boat has more than 50 hours on it since it was unwinterized this year, so I don't see it as being a ruptured core from freezing. It may have ruptured for other reasons, I suppose.
Anyway, I have to get in there and inspect, maybe remove, the heater for diagnosis. What's the best way to do that? Do I need to remove the driver's kick panel, or can I do it from the front bow storage?
Or any other insights on leaking heaters?
Diesel
09-14-2006, 09:34 AM
Take the kick panel off and it will be easily accessible. You can completely remove the unit and have it pressure tested at any radiator shop to see if it is leaking. You can also put a splice fitting in between the two hose ends under the dash so you can continue to use the boat. If it is in fact the heater core the radiator shop can probably fix the leak or you can buy a new core.
bigmac
09-14-2006, 09:44 AM
Take the kick panel off and it will be easily accessible. You can completely remove the unit and have it pressure tested at any radiator shop to see if it is leaking. You can also put a splice fitting in between the two hose ends under the dash so you can continue to use the boat. If it is in fact the heater core the radiator shop can probably fix the leak or you can buy a new core.
Thanks for the info. I think I'll call Heatercraft if it turns out to be a ruptured core and see if they'll give me any rhythm on this heater that's only been in service for 100 hours and 1.5 seasons.
etakk7
09-14-2006, 09:58 AM
Mac,weren't you the one with a valve that you could turn to stop the flow of water from the engine?
bigmac
09-14-2006, 10:09 AM
Mac,weren't you the one with a valve that you could turn to stop the flow of water from the engine?
YES! And closing that valve was the first thing I did, which should have shut down the intake side of the heater hose. It's a great disappointment and a great mystery to me why that didn't stop hot water leakage. Obviously, there must be some positive pressure from the circulating pump. If I hadn't been done foiling, or had a long way back, I would have disconnected the heater lines and plugged 'em.
My guess is that the valve just stops hot water circulation through the core - therefore no heat. But if the core is open/leaking or a hose is off on the core, the engine water circuit is still open to the air and can leak.
http://mccollister.info/valve.jpg
WakeSeeky
09-14-2006, 12:03 PM
Thanks for the info. I think I'll call Heatercraft if it turns out to be a ruptured core and see if they'll give me any rhythm on this heater that's only been in service for 100 hours and 1/5 seasons.
Our heater core ruptured sometime in late May/early June this year, I think we had around 125 hours at that point. Obviously no chance of freezing, but I did ask the mechanic at the shop if there was anything we'd done wrong, and he said no, sometimes they just go. It's certainly possible yours did the same thing.
bigmac
09-14-2006, 01:03 PM
Our heater core ruptured sometime in late May/early June this year, I think we had around 125 hours at that point. Obviously no chance of freezing, but I did ask the mechanic at the shop if there was anything we'd done wrong, and he said no, sometimes they just go. It's certainly possible yours did the same thing.
I feel better, and worse -- both at the same time...;)
WakeSeeky
09-14-2006, 04:26 PM
I feel better, and worse -- both at the same time...;)
Glad to help... or not. :D
Todd Brosius
09-14-2006, 10:03 PM
My heater core broke on my 2004 prostar 197 and heatercraft replaced it and I did all the work myself. Just takes time. I removed my driver's seat to have more room to work, but maybe your situation is different than mine. Good luck. I'm sure heatercraft will work with you. They were very pleasant to work with.
If your core is out of warranty, you can purchase the actual cores from an auto parts store allot cheaper than from Heatercraft. They are cores from cars. Some people on here know which car the 2 and 3 port cores are ‘from’.
bigmac
09-15-2006, 07:12 PM
My heater core broke on my 2004 prostar 197 and heatercraft replaced it and I did all the work myself. Just takes time. I removed my driver's seat to have more room to work, but maybe your situation is different than mine. Good luck. I'm sure heatercraft will work with you. They were very pleasant to work with.
OK, I pulled the heater. Kind of a PITA. No disconnects on the wiring so I had to cut, to crimp-splice on re-install, I suppose. I'm also curious about who the genius is that thought it would be a good idea to glue the hoses to the core inlet/outlet. Sheesh.
So, I disassembled the grey box and pulled the core, filled the thing with water after I got it out and the core is leaking, a lot, from one of the fins along the edge - no visible trauma to it, just leaking. A lot. Worked great all summer, then splash, all of a sudden my ski locker is a hot tub.
I have a call into Steve at Heater Craft. He'll call Monday and we'll see if HeaterCraft can beat SkiDim's price. It looks like I can get the whole grey box from SkiDim for $83 - just slap the motor on and spend some more quality time on my back under the dash in standard boat-repair posture.
Frankly, I find this irritating. This boat cost substantially more than my car. It seems like I shouldn't be having to screw around with this kind of cr@p with 100 hours on the clock.
.
NeilM
09-15-2006, 07:18 PM
OK, I pulled the heater. Kind of a PITA. No disconnects on the wiring so I had to cut, to crimp-splice on re-install, I suppose. I'm also curious about who the genius is that thought it would be a good idea to glue the hoses to the core inlet/outlet. Sheesh.
So, I disassembled the grey box and pulled the core, filled the thing with water after I got it out and the core is leaking, a lot, from one of the fins along the edge - no visible trauma to it, just leaking. A lot. Worked great all summer, then splash, all of a sudden my ski locker is a hot tub.
I have a call into Steve at Heater Craft. He'll call Monday and we'll see if HeaterCraft can beat SkiDim's price. It looks like I can get the whole grey box from SkiDim for $83 - just slap the motor on and spend some more quality time on my back under the dash in standard boat-repair posture.
Frankly, I find this irritating. This boat cost substantially more than my car. It seems like I shouldn't be having to screw around with this kind of cr@p with 100 hours on the clock.
.
Yep - definitely a PITA-- especially discovering that the hoses are cemented on. Mine went at around 500hours, but I blamed it on my winterizing and simply not noticing it earlier in the season -- now I wonder...
bigmac
09-25-2006, 10:15 PM
Yep - definitely a PITA-- especially discovering that the hoses are cemented on. Mine went at around 500hours, but I blamed it on my winterizing and simply not noticing it earlier in the season -- now I wonder...
Well, HeaterCraft sent me a new upgraded core. It appears to be a little bigger than the original and the tubing and fins are much better looking. It comes in the grey box - all I had to do was reattach the motor and install it. Fortunately, putting it in the boat was substantially easier than taking it out. I did not re-cement the hoses onto the core and I put bullet plugs onto the wires in case I have to do this again someday. :rolleyes: .
They sent me the new one at no charge - telling me that there is a two year warranty on the core. They were very helpful, just as everyone said they would be. Buying a new one would have been $81 from SkiDim or $91 from HeaterCraft.