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View Full Version : Winterizing procedures for leaving boat on boat lift????


prostar205
09-10-2006, 10:38 AM
I am thinking of leaving my boat on my boat lift at the marina for the winter. I have electricity at the dock so I can plug in a heat / dehumidifier. Here is a list of the winterization things I plan on doing to the boat. Please let me know if I am leaving anything out. Oh yeah, my boat slip is covered as well. It is a 40 foot slip so there is virtually no way rain, leaves and debris can get on the boat.

1) purchase a full waterline cover from Skiboatcovers.com
2) remove all cushions and store them in my garage
3) put in two heater / dehumidifiers
4) drain all water from block, exhaust manifolds, etc...
5) drain water from heater hose
6) steam clean carpet
7) wash and wax hull
8) remove tower speakers (eliminate potential of theft)
9) change oil
10) remove center and rear drain plugs. Install wire mesh in holes to prevent anything getting into boat.
11) tap up exhaust flappers

Am I missing anything??

SD190EVO
09-10-2006, 11:32 AM
If block is drained, I'm trying to figure out the 'upside' of having heaters in the boat. Seems like Murphys law would kick in or something and you'd have an electircal fire or God knows what. I would just skip that part.

erkoehler
09-10-2006, 11:37 AM
I'd leave the plugs in, just in case.....:rolleyes:

Leroy
09-10-2006, 12:33 PM
I did this also for couple of years. Worked well for me.

Put a plastic owl over your boat.

I would not put in anything connected to 110v inside the boat.

Tie off boat in case lift drops so it will stay in slip and not be banging around.

Per ERK keep the plug in.

Will marina check? How often? Normally someone there will walk the marina everyday. Ask if they will check and call/email you if anything happens. Mine had a roof collapse from freak spring snow storm and they emailed me to let me know my boat was ok.

I would leave battery in and bilge on auto. Maybe trickle charger on battery. I did it battery in one year battery out one year. A charged battery is ok sitting around.

bigmac
09-10-2006, 12:44 PM
I would definitely leave the plugs in and leave the bilge pumps on auto. I would connect the battery to a "float" type charger that will continuously monitor the battery state and keep it fully charged. Float chargers won't overcharge the battery like a standard trickle charger will.

I would definitely winterize the block according to MC's winterization procedures and not rely on heaters or anything to prevent freezing (in case of power outage). Don'f forget to blow out the heater and drain shower.

I'd leave a electric heater/dryer in the boat to decrease the chance of mold. Something like this (http://www.overtons.com/modperl/overtons/detail/pdetail2.cgi?r=detail_view&item_num=71503&fcat=)will use less electricity than a 100 watt light bulb.

http://www.overtons.com/graphics/products/medium/71503M.jpg

erkoehler
09-10-2006, 12:48 PM
It might even be worth it to get a "cheap" battery from like walmart that will have enough juice to power the bilge, but not necessarily run the boat. Then it won't matter if the battery gets killed over the winter.

phecksel
09-11-2006, 11:05 AM
After draining, I always run a 50/50 glycol mixture through the system and then drain that out.

bigmac
09-11-2006, 11:17 AM
After draining, I always run a 50/50 glycol mixture through the system and then drain that out.

If it's kept on a lift, the only place Prostar could drain it would be into the lake, in which case he should be sure to use propylene glycol, not ethylene glycol. The latter is standard automotive antifreeze and is toxic and persistant -- not something I'd want in MY lake. Propylene glycol OTOH is RV antifreeze and is non-toxic. It comes in minus 50 degree F. and minus 100 F., and is used straight, not mixed.

MCX2RYD
09-11-2006, 11:18 AM
Seeing as thought we are on winterization topic. I called my dealer this morning and the wait is into the beginning of november for full winterization. They will however blow all the water out etc. I live 4 hours away and really I do not want to tow it in November when we are here in the Northern Alberta.

What steps do I need to do to winterize my 06 X2?? Or where can I find the procedures!?

east tx skier
09-11-2006, 11:34 AM
The checklist I use is attached to a post in the FAQ as is a link to a winterization write up on another page. There is also good info in the manual, which was among the sources I used in my checklist.

While I don't bother with antifreeze for my garaged Texas boat, were I in your shoes, I think I'd opt for the propylene glycol.

prostar205
09-11-2006, 12:12 PM
Thanks everyone for the advice.

The heater/dehumidifier that Bigmac showed a picture of is what I have. I will probably use two (one by the driver's seat in the walkway of the boat and the other in the engine compartment). I reason I will use these is because of mold buildup. I did not use one last year and had to remove every piece of interior in the X30 - not a small task.

calix2rider
09-12-2006, 03:44 PM
I live in central CA and the temp rarely drops below freezing durring the winter, I keep in my barn covered... Do I still have to do all of these steps?

BuoyChaser
09-12-2006, 04:26 PM
I'd leave a electric heater/dryer in the boat to decrease the chance of mold. Something like this (http://www.overtons.com/modperl/overtons/detail/pdetail2.cgi?r=detail_view&item_num=71503&fcat=)will use less electricity than a 100 watt light bulb.

http://www.overtons.com/graphics/products/medium/71503M.jpg
how warm does this heater get???curious if i put this in my boat on the lift with just the regular vinyl lift cover, how warm it would keep the engine???could throw the cover on if need be, but very much tucked underneath...

just trying to extend the season for skiing after work at 5:30pm here on the east coast...

prostar205
09-12-2006, 04:51 PM
The dehumidifier/heater I have does not get very hot. It draws air in from the bottom and exhuasts it out the holes on the top of the unit. They draw the equivalent of a 130W lightbulb. I did the calculation awhile ago and figured it uses about $9 worth of electricity per month. That was based on an electric rate of $.09 per kilowatt hour running 24 hours a day for 30 days. I can tell you that the first winter I had the boat I used it and it worked great - no mold on the interior. I did not use it last winter because the place where I keep the boat, the guy thought it ran up his electric bill $100 per month, so I use those DryZairs (dry pellets). I had so much mold that I thought I was going to have to buy all new skins for the boat. Needless to say, the boat is not going back to my buddies house. Hence the reason for keeping it on the lift with 2 of these dehumidifiers/heaters.

bigmac
09-12-2006, 06:45 PM
http://www.overtons.com/modperl/overtons/order/items2.cgihow warm does this heater get???curious if i put this in my boat on the lift with just the regular vinyl lift cover, how warm it would keep the engine???could throw the cover on if need be, but very much tucked underneath...

just trying to extend the season for skiing after work at 5:30pm here on the east coast...Not very warm - certainly not warm enough to rely on to keep anything from freezing. I suspect it puts out about the same amount of heat as a 100 watt light bulb, but it's also got a fan, and its job is to circulate air somewhere above the dew point in 1000 cubic feet or less that is just enough to keep mildew/mold from forming.

There are devices designed for actually keeping the engine compartment warm. One is Boat Safe (http://www.overtons.com/modperl/overtons/order/items2.cgi)in two different sizes and the other is the Xtreme heater (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/263446/0/0/engine%20heater/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0).

http://www.overtons.com/graphics/products/medium/36250M.jpg http://images.westmarine.com/full/7101140.jpg

prostar205
09-12-2006, 06:50 PM
Those Extreme Heaters are not cheap - $350+ depending on size. I'd just drain the block, exhaust manifolds, trans cooler and heater and add the Air Dryr for $50. I'll probably use 2 of them.

bigmac
09-12-2006, 06:52 PM
Those Extreme Heaters are not cheap - $350+ depending on size. I'd just drain the block, exhaust manifolds, trans cooler and heater and add the Air Dryr for $50. I'll probably use 2 of them.

No, they're all really spendy. Not my call though - bouychaser's money to spend.

Kell
09-12-2006, 07:24 PM
1) purchase a full waterline cover from Skiboatcovers.com
2) remove all cushions and store them in my garage
3) put in two heater / dehumidifiers
4) drain all water from block, exhaust manifolds, etc...
5) drain water from heater hose
6) steam clean carpet
7) wash and wax hull
8) remove tower speakers (eliminate potential of theft)
9) change oil
10) remove center and rear drain plugs. Install wire mesh in holes to prevent anything getting into boat.
11) tap up exhaust flappers

Am I missing anything?? In additon to the things you have listed I also change the tranny fluid and fog the engine.

michael freeman
09-12-2006, 07:45 PM
Those Extreme Heaters are not cheap - $350+ depending on size. I'd just drain the block, exhaust manifolds, trans cooler and heater and add the Air Dryr for $50. I'll probably use 2 of them.

I kind of believe you get what you pay for, hopefully at $350+ it is a lot higher quality and dependable.

I was going to pick up the other one, I guess I will look and see if the Extreme Heater is a better choice for outside storage (in Texas). I have closed cooling so I just need something to keep the trans cooler and heat exchanger/exhaust above freezing.

bigmac
09-12-2006, 08:04 PM
I kind of believe you get what you pay for, hopefully at $350+ it is a lot higher quality and dependable.

I was going to pick up the other one, I guess I will look and see if the Extreme Heater is a better choice for outside storage (in Texas). I have closed cooling so I just need something to keep the trans cooler and heat exchanger/exhaust above freezing.

I don't know about the quality and dependability. The sole purpose of the $49 dryer is to prevent mold. The purpose of the Xtreme thing is to keep your engine block from freezing. However, I have grave doubts about relying on any electrically powered device as being the only thing keeping my transmission cooler and heat exchanger from freezing. Personally, I'm not willing to bet my engine block on the reliability of Minnesota Power and Light. I drain the block, drain the hoses, do all that winterizing stuff. Then I can slap my little Turbo-dryer in the boat and sleep soundly at night, knowing that my block won't freeze because it's drained and my boat won't get mold in the interior because of my $49 Turbo Dryer.

prostar205
09-13-2006, 01:30 PM
I don't know about the quality and dependability. The sole purpose of the $49 dryer is to prevent mold. The purpose of the Xtreme thing is to keep your engine block from freezing. However, I have grave doubts about relying on any electrically powered device as being the only thing keeping my transmission cooler and heat exchanger from freezing. Personally, I'm not willing to bet my engine block on the reliability of Minnesota Power and Light. I drain the block, drain the hoses, do all that winterizing stuff. Then I can slap my little Turbo-dryer in the boat and sleep soundly at night, knowing that my block won't freeze because it's drained and my boat won't get mold in the interior because of my $49 Turbo Dryer.

I completely agree with Bigmac. I always drain the block, trans heat exchangers, heater hoses, exhaust manifolds, etc..... I only use the Air Dryr for mold issues.

Rockman
09-13-2006, 02:05 PM
If you can, chain the wheel of the lift to the actual lift itself and get a good lock. We use a Kryptonite lock and chain that we purcahsed at a motor cycle shop (about $150) and have used it since we got our boat. It will take a long time for someone to cut through this chain and lock.

Also, crank the boat up on the lift as high as you can to prevent anything from touching the boat. By getting it up really high, it also is a pain for someone to try and get into the boat if they take the cover off.

Just trying to be cautious...;)

nolans86
09-24-2006, 10:08 PM
east tx skier. Thanks for the checklists. getting pretty chilling in MI and just pulled boat out today.

Bert
09-24-2006, 11:20 PM
Seeing as thought we are on winterization topic. I called my dealer this morning and the wait is into the beginning of november for full winterization. They will however blow all the water out etc. I live 4 hours away and really I do not want to tow it in November when we are here in the Northern Alberta.

What steps do I need to do to winterize my 06 X2?? Or where can I find the procedures!?
Save yourself some money and do it yourself, it is very simple. I would trust your self not to miss some thing more than some guy working at a John Deer dealer that side lines in Mastercrafts.

Just follow the check list mentioned here, good stuff on there. It makes no difference how much it goes below 0 degrees in deciding if you use propylene glycol or RV anti freeze. It is optional and both will work. I prefer simply draining the block, heater and shower. Air doesn't freeze and expand. Just change the fluids, stabilize the fuel, fog the engine, drain the water and leave all the drains open. Make sure you dry the interior and bilge before you cover it up for the winter. Twenty years doing it that way with my boats in Alberta for me so far and no problems. All the other stuff about cleaning and waxing is a good idea but doesn't protect from the cold.
This is a good time to repack your wheel bearings as well.