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etakk7
09-06-2006, 01:55 PM
Question: Does drawing in antifreeze through the raw water intake and running it until circulated also then circulate through the heater core/lines, or are additional procedures necessary for winterizing the heater? The boat is a 2000 205V.

Thanks

bigmac
09-06-2006, 02:12 PM
Question: Does drawing in antifreeze through the raw water intake and running it until circulated also then circulate through the heater core/lines, or are additional procedures necessary for winterizing the heater? The boat is a 2000 205V.

ThanksNope, not necessarily. Best bet IMHO is to disconnect the most convenient heater hose line and pump RV antifreeze through it til it comes out the other hose into the block. I use one of those cheap anti-freeze RV winterization pumps. Next best bet is to blow a lot of air through one of the heater hoses.

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/hand-pump-kit.jpg

SD190EVO
09-06-2006, 02:37 PM
Here in Colorado where it can get cold cold cold I always disconnect both lines of the heater at the block - I drop the lowest one in the bilge and put my lips on the other one and blow like crazy till I hear no 'percolatin'.

etakk7
09-06-2006, 02:47 PM
Thanks guys - second question - does anybody know the automotive replacement heater core for a 2000 205V? Mine does nothing but blow cold air, the previous owner probably forgot to winterize the heater.

bigmac
09-06-2006, 02:54 PM
Thanks guys - second question - does anybody know the automotive replacement heater core for a 2000 205V? Mine does nothing but blow cold air, the previous owner probably forgot to winterize the heater.

I've heard of guys doing that - replacing with an automotive core, also taking the old core to a radiator shop for repair. Personally, my inclination would be to go to HeaterCraft (http://www.heatercraft.com/) directly. Word is that they're very responsive and customer-oriented.

beef
09-06-2006, 03:29 PM
I went up to Lowes and got a couple of brass two way garden hose adapters along with some 5/8 fittings. Installed on both lines, along with a couple of short pieces of heater hose on the "open" ends. By reversing the open side of the Y, you can quickly blow out and/or pour full of antifreeze for those cold nights. This works really well if you want to keep sking into questionable temps.

It also has the added advantage of being able to easily shut off the heater in the hot weather, turning it into a nice cool fan for use while switching skiers. :) Total cost, about $15.

CoFooter
09-06-2006, 03:44 PM
Etak,

When I forgot to winterize my heater, it actually ruptured and leaked all over the next spring. If its only blowing cold air seems like there may be a blockage issue or its hooked up incorrectly. Never heard of a core getting blocked when frozen unless there is still ice in there. The guy in the shop that replaced it recommended blowing through the line with your mouth to winterize it. You can tell if it is blocked by doing that.

bigmac
09-06-2006, 03:52 PM
I went up to Lowes and got a couple of brass two way garden hose adapters along with some 5/8 fittings. Installed on both lines, along with a couple of short pieces of heater hose on the "open" ends. By reversing the open side of the Y, you can quickly blow out and/or pour full of antifreeze for those cold nights. This works really well if you want to keep sking into questionable temps.

It also has the added advantage of being able to easily shut off the heater in the hot weather, turning it into a nice cool fan for use while switching skiers. :) Total cost, about $15.My boat came with a nice little valve on the manifold side of the heater circuit for shutting off water flow through the heater circuit. Can't say I've ever used it, but it seems like a nice touch.

http://mccollister.info/valve.jpg

jimmer2880
09-06-2006, 07:37 PM
When mine froze, it ruptured. I took it to a radiator repair shop for a fix.

When you say it's blowing cold air - is that also while you are under way (> 2000 RPM's)?

If it's hot when above 2k RPM's, but cold while idling, you simply need to install a Y adapter available from www.skidim.com

etakk7
09-06-2006, 07:52 PM
No, it's cold all the time.

cwright
09-07-2006, 01:32 PM
If it's cold all the time the core is not getting hot water. You should have the flow valve indicated on the pic above. (Nice looking engine by the way). It is probably turned off. If you have the valve and it is on (or open), then something is plugged. If the reason you are not getting hot water is because your core is broke or ruptured, you would be pooring water out at a rate that would be very obvious, so I don't think that is your problem.

Good luck

SD190EVO
09-07-2006, 02:25 PM
I seriously doubt it would be this, but if in fact the P.O. was a knucklehead and he ruptured his core, he could have bypassed it by just hooking the hoses together thus bypassing the core altogether and therefore making no heat.

Really just need to do some on-site investigation on this...

cwright
09-07-2006, 02:28 PM
Wow good catch. Never thought of that, but the old bypass could be it.

NeilM
09-07-2006, 03:10 PM
Agree with going the Heatercraft route. A new core from them was less money (and simpler) than finding an approximate match at the rad shop.

etakk7
09-08-2006, 09:30 AM
thanks for all the reponses. I'll be going to the cabin this weekend and will get a better look at the situation.

etakk7
09-10-2006, 06:36 PM
Thanks guys! Got to take a look at it and my 2000 205V (LTR) has a valve just like the one BigMac pictured! Turns out, it was closed, so no wonder the heater blew air but only cold air! Now it works perfect. Thanks again!

Ben
09-10-2006, 09:09 PM
Neighbor said his turned out to be from a '78 for van or something like that. Take the core to auto parts store & have them see what they can find to match it. Auto parts store is much cheaper than dealer, probably, 2nd advantage to this method is you get a lifetime warranty....