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sanjuan23
09-01-2006, 08:36 AM
Okay so here is the long and short of it. My trailer is screaming for help. And although I still have about 2 months of Water Time left I want to start making plans for the refurb. I do not have a place on the water or the desire to let my baby sit in the water for the amount of time I will be working on the trailer over the cooler months. Anyone have some suggestions about how to go about this. I guess my questions really constists of how would I go about putting my boat on supports in the garage while the trailer gets worked on here at the office. Thanks!

chudson
09-01-2006, 08:57 AM
I hope to do the same thing this winter, my brother inlaw said I should powdercoat my trailer, don't know that much about it though!

MCPS205
09-01-2006, 08:58 AM
Could you find a dealer to rack the boat for a month or less?

ski_king
09-01-2006, 09:03 AM
I have been wanting to do the same for the past few off seasons, but have not come up with anything yet.

I am looking into haveing a dealer store the boat for me over the winter on a inside bunk, but none have a opening and there price is more than I want to pay.

Here are some earlier threads.
http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=147&highlight=trailer
http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=5600&highlight=trailer

DooSPX
09-01-2006, 09:44 AM
i was lucky, my boat was getting the keel fixed (trailer miss-alignment) and I was able to take the trailer back and repaint it and and extra keel pads on the other two crossmembers.

here is a link to the finished trailer. new paint, and new keel pads
http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=11420

Sodar
09-01-2006, 10:29 AM
I would recommend trying to find an empty, old, trashy trailer around the lake that will fit your boat and then go on a search for permission to use it. I was fortunate enough to use an old trailer to set my boat on for a couple months while I did my trailer.

Hoff1
09-01-2006, 10:53 AM
Picture courtesy of Erk and Chicago MasterCraft.

88 PS190
09-01-2006, 10:55 AM
We just had our trailer welded, powdercoated and reassembled. Turn around with in a week from our local dock, trailer, truck welder.

yours might be slower, took him 5 hours and there were areas you could rip the steel apart with a vice grip.

TMCNo1
09-01-2006, 08:02 PM
Media blast, not sand blast, paint fenders if fiberglass and powdercoat steel frame.

trickskier
09-01-2006, 09:50 PM
I would recommend trying to find an empty, old, trashy trailer around the lake that will fit your boat and then go on a search for permission to use it. I was fortunate enough to use an old trailer to set my boat on for a couple months while I did my trailer.

SODAR that is SWEET!!!! Now I'm going to have to to do a QUAD AXLE!!

JohnE
09-09-2006, 08:53 AM
Media blast, not sand blast, paint fenders if fiberglass and powdercoat steel frame.

Why media blast over sand? Is it the size of the "grit"? Or does the sand somehow adversely affect something? I'd like to repaint my trailer this winter.

mrG
09-09-2006, 09:22 AM
My trailer has some moderate rust around the tail lights, behind the tongue, and various other spots around the frame. The brake lines will need to be replaced as well. I'm wondering if it might be less expensive to replace the whole trailer (cost probably around ($2000-2500) or find an outfit to blast, weld, paint/powder coat the rig.

Anyone gone down this road? I'll try to get pics soon.

TMCNo1
09-09-2006, 03:01 PM
Why media blast over sand? Is it the size of the "grit"? Or does the sand somehow adversely affect something? I'd like to repaint my trailer this winter.


Sand is very abrasive and will etch the steel, heat the steel and eat away the steel, depending on the size sand used and the person doing the blasting. Media blasting is the same except the material used is plastic, nutshells, among other materials and doesn't damage the blasted surfaces quite as bad, and leaves the steel rather smooth.

TMCNo1
09-09-2006, 03:12 PM
My trailer has some moderate rust around the tail lights, behind the tongue, and various other spots around the frame. The brake lines will need to be replaced as well. I'm wondering if it might be less expensive to replace the whole trailer (cost probably around ($2000-2500) or find an outfit to blast, weld, paint/powder coat the rig.

Anyone gone down this road? I'll try to get pics soon.


I completely redid our '89 trailer w/o brakes in 1997, installing Boat Buddy system, converting to Disc Brakes with a new Tongue/Actuator, brakes lines/fittings, lifting boat off/on trailer w/2 wreckers [2 trips], welding, sandblasting, priming, painting, new bunk carpet, wiring, everything including new S/S screws, nuts bolts and washers for around $1,100. Depending on the trailer, dealer and your deal, a new single axle trailer will run around $3,000 or more

Ramhouse
09-09-2006, 03:21 PM
Heard of this but never tried it, i'm thinking of doing it this winter.
1. Back boat on trailer into garage.
2. Lower toung to ground and block rear of boat.
3. Raise toung as high as you can, use blocks if needed and block up front of boat.
4. Lower toung and pull out trailer.
It makes sence to me that it would work. Use lifiting eye to hold up front while pulling out trailer and reblock. Reinforced rafter will work temporally.

ski_king
09-09-2006, 04:44 PM
.
3. Raise toung as high as you can, use blocks if needed and block up front of boat.
4. Lower toung and pull out trailer.
Not sure how you can block up the front and pull trailer out. Crossmembers will be in the way.


Use lifiting eye to hold up front while pulling out trailer and reblock. Reinforced rafter will work temporally.
I think I am going to try to temporarally reinforcing my roof truss with a couple more 2 x 6's and add temporary supports from the floor to the reninforced truss then lift from the bow eye. Then set on a few big blocks of high density styrofoam.

SD190EVO
09-09-2006, 05:29 PM
FWIW - A backhoe with chains and straps will easily lift your boat.

If it were me, I'd not try to do it in the garage. No matter what the task, working in a 'confined space' is always more risky and complicated.

I'd borrow a backhoe from someone and lift it and prop it up like the 'Chicago Mastercraft' picture in this thread. That's what I did when I had to repair an old Tri-Star trailer. It was far easier than I'd expected.

shepherd
09-09-2006, 05:39 PM
Not sure how you can block up the front and pull trailer out. Crossmembers will be in the way.




I've seen it done before. You need various thicknesses of scrap wood and a jack in addition to your bow blocks. You move the trailer until a cross member gets to the bow blocks. Set up the jack and scrap wood behind the cross member, with at least one or two boards between the jack and hull to protect the hull, and jack up slightly until the first set of blocks can be pulled free. Move the blocks behind the cross member. Lower the jack until the hull is resting on the blocks. Continue moving the trailer until the next cross piece gets to the blocks... and repeat as necessary. I've seen this done in my buddy's back yard with a fairly large (28') boat. You just have to be patient, meticulous, and VERY careful. The stern blocks kept the boat fairly stable while all this was going on.

TMCNo1
09-09-2006, 07:40 PM
I set our boat on old worn out tires, borrowed from the local tire shop, 7 on each corner under the transom and 8 under the bow about 3' in front of the fins. I spread some old towels on top of the tires to prevent them from marking up the gelcoat. It was on the tires for about a week and they actually compressed about 1' but still left 1' under the prop and rudder and 2' under the keel.

fresh pizza guy
09-11-2006, 08:42 PM
another method of holding up the front of the boat while pulling out the trailer would be using an engine lift or hoist... thats what i plan on doing when the season is over.

blocks in the rear then some wood, and carpet/towels, and engine hoist on the tow eye.

whitedog
09-11-2006, 10:19 PM
Heard of this but never tried it, i'm thinking of doing it this winter.
1. Back boat on trailer into garage.
2. Lower toung to ground and block rear of boat.
3. Raise toung as high as you can, use blocks if needed and block up front of boat.
4. Lower toung and pull out trailer.
It makes sence to me that it would work. Use lifiting eye to hold up front while pulling out trailer and reblock. Reinforced rafter will work temporally.


I've done this on a couple of boats. Ues forklift to pick up front from lifting eye the pull out trailer. Boat yards do it all the time. just besure your blocking at the back is stable or boat may shift and fall.

tdaines@hotmail.com
09-21-2006, 10:04 PM
If you're handy, you can build a frame that mimics the trailer bunks. I did it with 2 X 6s, 2 X 4s, and carpet left over from building my house. It took about 2 hours to finish it. (DO NOT TRY the setup that is in the picture above...if that was at a Mastercraft dealer, I'd suggest everyone in that part of the country to find a new dealer)

The way to lift a ski boat is typically straight up from the lift ring on the front, and also straight up from the rings on the rear. When I did my trailer, we used a tractor with a loader for the rear and an engine hoist for the front. Then we just pulled the trailer out from under it, and slid the frame in. It worked awesome - in fact, I left my boat on that rack all winter.

shepherd
09-22-2006, 11:04 PM
(DO NOT TRY the setup that is in the picture above...if that was at a Mastercraft dealer, I'd suggest everyone in that part of the country to find a new dealer)


I've seen a lot of marinas set 'em up like that, with much bigger boats. It's more stable than you might think.

kah68
10-18-2006, 05:50 PM
Not sure how you can block up the front and pull trailer out. Crossmembers will be in the way.



I think I am going to try to temporarally reinforcing my roof truss with a couple more 2 x 6's and add temporary supports from the floor to the reninforced truss then lift from the bow eye. Then set on a few big blocks of high density styrofoam.

I own a Roof Truss plant and if you take some 2x6 or 2x8 2 or 3 ply, or L.V.L. beam material and run them across the bottom chord ( flat bottom part of the truss ) to spread the load over as many trusses as you can ( 10 or more ) you should be fine for lifting one end of your boat, just don't do it with alot of heavy snow on your roof.

Kirk

shepherd
11-01-2006, 08:50 AM
I completely redid our '89 trailer w/o brakes in 1997, installing Boat Buddy system, converting to Disc Brakes with a new Tongue/Actuator, brakes lines/fittings, lifting boat off/on trailer w/2 wreckers [2 trips], welding, sandblasting, priming, painting, new bunk carpet, wiring, everything including new S/S screws, nuts bolts and washers for around $1,100. Depending on the trailer, dealer and your deal, a new single axle trailer will run around $3,000 or more

$1,100 sounds like a great deal No1. How much of that work (if any) did you have to do yourself?

TMCNo1
11-01-2006, 09:27 AM
Sorry, dbl post?

bigmac
11-01-2006, 09:27 AM
I hope to do the same thing this winter, my brother inlaw said I should powdercoat my trailer, don't know that much about it though!I don't know where Crestwood Illinois is relative to Urbana, but Gorilla Powdercoating (http://www.gorillapowdercoating.com/custom_retail.htm) in your neck of the woods has an excellent reputation. I've not used them, but I talked with them on the phone a few times about ceramic exhaust coating as well as some custom powder coating projects and I found them to be very helpful and knowledgable. Their prices were very reasonable, but the shipping distances from here made it not feasible.

TMCNo1
11-01-2006, 09:28 AM
$1,100 sounds like a great deal No1. How much of that work (if any) did you have to do yourself?
I had all the welding done for the BB system and new actuator tongue, with the boat on the trailer for a proper fit, dissasembled it all, had it sandblasted, primed and painted and I reassembled it myself installing all the disc brake system, BB system, carpet, new wiring kit, fender detailing, painted pinstripes on trailer. It took exactly one week from start to finish working on it at night only. Got in bed several nights at 2:00am but it worked! The boat was setting on stacks of tires covered with blankets in the driveway and they were fast compressing and the underwater gear was getting too close to the asphalt for me!
If I had it to do again, I would have had it media blasted [plastic, glass, nutshells, etc], powdercoated instead of painted, because if done properly, the powdercoating totally encapsulates all the raw steel sealing it and is more durable than paint.

Sodar
11-01-2006, 11:01 AM
I checked into powdercoating my trailer, but ran into a few issues with it. First and foremost, powdercoasting only works on metal and therefore my fenders were not going to totally match the paint on the trailer. Next, I wanted to use filler to smooth all my welds, joints and imperfections. You can not use filler with powdercoat because when they bake it, it just turns to goop and ruins the entire job. Last issue I had was cost, my local guy wanted $1575 for it, as opposed to my $800 paint job... If I ever bought a new trailer, I would try to get a powder coated one, the sheen and resilience is awesome!

TMCNo1
11-01-2006, 12:32 PM
I checked into powdercoating my trailer, but ran into a few issues with it. First and foremost, powdercoasting only works on metal and therefore my fenders were not going to totally match the paint on the trailer. Next, I wanted to use filler to smooth all my welds, joints and imperfections. You can not use filler with powdercoat because when they bake it, it just turns to goop and ruins the entire job. Last issue I had was cost, my local guy wanted $1575 for it, as opposed to my $800 paint job... If I ever bought a new trailer, I would try to get a powder coated one, the sheen and resilience is awesome!


Wow! Around here powdercoating a boat trailer runs around $500, including mediablasting. Everyone powdercoating metal with body filler is using the reintroduced metalized filler, it will conduct electricity, that will permit powdercoating to stick to it and is heat resistant. Yes, the fenders will have to be painted to match, but that should be no problem for a qualified auto paint supply if you can give them a color chip from the powdercoater. Most of the colors are international colors and every paint/powdercoat manufacturer has those color sheets with cross referenced numbers.

shepherd
11-01-2006, 01:32 PM
Maybe Sodar's $1575 estimate included disassembly/assembly of the trailer, while you did all that work yourself?

TMCNo1
11-01-2006, 01:59 PM
A friend with a tandem axle trailer for a 1990 MariStar 210, removed everything but the galvanized axles, towed it to Unique Coatings in High Point, NC, they removed the axles, mediablasted, powdercoated to match his V8 Mercury Mountineer gray trim, then reinstalled the axles for $480 two years ago.

Sodar
11-01-2006, 01:59 PM
Maybe Sodar's $1575 estimate included disassembly/assembly of the trailer, while you did all that work yourself?

No, I did everything myself, including paying to have a seperate company blast it... sounds like the guy just plain did not want to do my trailer!!

shepherd
01-19-2007, 06:10 PM
I completely redid our '89 trailer w/o brakes in 1997, installing Boat Buddy system, converting to Disc Brakes with a new Tongue/Actuator, brakes lines/fittings, lifting boat off/on trailer w/2 wreckers [2 trips], welding, sandblasting, priming, painting, new bunk carpet, wiring, everything including new S/S screws, nuts bolts and washers for around $1,100. Depending on the trailer, dealer and your deal, a new single axle trailer will run around $3,000 or more

Harold,
How did that lifting on/off the trailer work? Do you mean you had two wreckers lifting it at the same time (fwd and aft)? Or did you have just one wrecker come out twice (and lift one end at a time)? I'm trying to figure out how to take my boat off the trailer and block it up while I refurbish the trailer.

TMCNo1
01-19-2007, 07:25 PM
Harold,
How did that lifting on/off the trailer work? Do you mean you had two wreckers lifting it at the same time (fwd and aft)? Or did you have just one wrecker come out twice (and lift one end at a time)? I'm trying to figure out how to take my boat off the trailer and block it up while I refurbish the trailer.

A local wrecker co. (1 mile away) that I letter their trucks for them, sent 2 small wreckers. The wreckers were parked perpendicular to the boat/trailer and the booms were extended out over the centerline of the boat. 1 lifted the bow up with a nylon strap through the front lifting eye and the other with a strap with hooks on the end attached to the transom eyes and the rubrail was padded with towels at the straps, then they lifted the boat with both wreckers at the same time, out comes the trailer and under went the tires covered on top with towels. Total time about 20 minutes each trip.

bbeach
01-20-2007, 11:16 AM
San juan send me your email address and I'll send you pictures of my entire trailer refurb from start to finish... Also anything over $600 is crazy for a sandblast and powdercoat... Mine was $400 and I did all the prep work on it before I took it in...