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kdr
08-30-2006, 09:18 AM
Remove the drums from the trailer? I trailered the boat this past weekend and all the lug nuts on the left wheel were backed almost all the way off when I got back to my house. All the bolts need to be replaced and the holes on the wheel have been damaged. I am planning on replacing the bolts and maybe doing some brake work and greasing the wheel bearings, but I couldn't figure out how to get the drums off to get to the hubs. I have never done this kind of work on a trailer before, but I figured that it would be similar to my truck. I guess I was wrong?

Hoosier Bob
08-30-2006, 09:50 AM
If they are like my 93 they are hubs as well. You will need remove the cotter pin and the axle shaft nut to remove. You will also need to be ready to reback the bearings. Go to WWW.WAYMIRES.COM and they may have some pics and replacement parts if needed (hub drums).

Hoosier Bob
08-30-2006, 10:03 AM
I meant to say axle shaft "NUT" regarding what holds the hub drum on. Edited.

kdr
08-30-2006, 10:41 AM
That explains alot. Next question: How do I remove the bearing buddies to get to all this stuff?

Hoosier Bob
08-30-2006, 11:15 AM
They come out fairly easily. I pull with my hands and tap with a rubber mallet. You can hit on alternating sides and you will see it come out a touch. Then use a flat head screwdriver to carefully remove. Good luck!That explains alot. Next question: How do I remove the bearing buddies to get to all this stuff?

kdr
08-30-2006, 11:17 AM
Thanks, Hoosier Bob

Ryan
08-30-2006, 11:17 AM
That explains alot. Next question: How do I remove the bearing buddies to get to all this stuff?

Tap it with a rubber mallet, or us a block of wood as a buffer if using a regular hammer. You may have trouble removing the drum. If that's the case there is a small rubber tab on the axle side of the brake assembly, pull them and insert a screwdriver to turn the adjustment gear that will loosen back the pads off the drum. [edit for clarity] Of course remove the cotter pin, locking nut, and nut first. Then once the drum is off you get get at your bearings. Do a google search on which way to turn the adjustment gear for each side...I can't remember right now.

kdr
08-31-2006, 09:49 AM
Everything came off really easy, although it didn't feel quite right to beat the bearing buddies with the rubber mallet. No my only issue is getting the rear seal off. When I did my truck, the seal just popped out with a screwdriver. I was prying on the seal last night and it was not moving. I was going to head to the store today and see about getting a seal puller.

Thanks for the advice.

Hoosier Bob
08-31-2006, 05:20 PM
If I remember correctly the actuater assembly (Uni Servo Assembly) somewhat blocks your access. If that is removed/loosened via the four bolts you may be able to get to it easier. If it looks ok clean and grease but if you have it off I get your point as to doing it now.:D

JLeuck64
09-01-2006, 01:57 AM
No my only issue is getting the rear seal off. When I did my truck, the seal just popped out with a screwdriver. I was prying on the seal last night and it was not moving. I was going to head to the store today and see about getting a seal puller.

Yea, getting those seals out can be a real booger! The trick is to get enough leverage. Tough to do without holding the brake drum some how. What I did was to put my drum with the lug studs facing down in a vise. CAREFULLY clamp the vise to hold the drum, be carefull you don't put too much pressure on the studs because you could damage the threads. Then all you need is a good sized pry bar to work the seal out. The vise will act as another pair of hands to hold the drum for ya!

Now, if you're in a pinch and don't have a vise that is big enough or let's say a long pry bar either here is another way to remove the seal.

After you remove the kotter pin and the nut and washer, don't pull the drum off the spindle. Just wiggle it enough to get the bearing to slide out. Lay it aside and put the nut back on several turns. Now you can try to slide the drum off the spindle, but it won't be able to because the nut is hitting the inner bearing. Several firm pulls while turning the drum slightly after each time will push the seal out for you. This technique is sort of like a slide hammer. Bear in mind that for very stubborn seals this will more than likely cause a little damage to the cage for the rollers in the bearing, so take a good look at it after you get it cleaned up!

I recently replaced the backing plates, shoes and hardware and wheel cylinders on my trailer. I found a trailer parts only store in my area that had what they call loaded backing plates for about $41.15 a piece. So for a little over $82 I had functioning brakes again!

kdr
09-01-2006, 09:49 AM
With the seal puller, the rear seals popped right out. I had thought about using the "slide hammer" approach, but I want to reuse the bearing and seals, so I wanted to be a gentle as possible. I was going to finish up last night, but the new lug bolts that I got from Northern Tool were not right, so I now have to track down the right ones.

Hoosier Bob
09-01-2006, 07:19 PM
This would have been a nice picture thread! I forgot as well but would have been a nice reference for those that follow!:rolleyes: With the seal puller, the rear seals popped right out. I had thought about using the "slide hammer" approach, but I want to reuse the bearing and seals, so I wanted to be a gentle as possible. I was going to finish up last night, but the new lug bolts that I got from Northern Tool were not right, so I now have to track down the right ones.

JLeuck64
09-03-2006, 09:15 PM
I agree, this is one area of maintenance that needs a pictorial. I'll do it next spring when I re-pack my trailer bearings.