PDA

View Full Version : Power Problems


LakePirate
08-24-2006, 11:43 AM
Get all the tech info out 1st.

Got an 89 Tristar with 351w, electronic ignition kit, 1:1 tranny, optima blue top battery.

Been having what I thought were starter problems, but I am beginning to think that it might be something else.

Haven't used my boat in a couple of weeks, put her in the water for to grab a few sets on Tuesday afternoon and she wouldn't crank, solenoid/starter stared burning up.

Have replaced the solenoid several times.

If I run hard 25+ all day I have no problems re-cranking.

I pulled a kneeboarder who was learning the other week for about an hour at 15 or so mph and when I shut her down, she wouldn't re-fire. Replaced the solenoid, no dice. Waited a couple of days and my brother got her to crank, no problem. Not sure if he jumped it off or not.

Here are my questions:
1. Do I have a starter issue, it gets hot and gets mad?
2. Do I have a battery issue, it is not holding it's charge?
3. Do I have an alternator issue, it is not charging the battery unless I am running higher RPMs causing the battery to not get a good charge, causing the starter to not get enough power to turn the engine over?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

TMCNo1
08-24-2006, 11:50 AM
Have you checked the kill switch or the neutral safety switch on the transmission?

MarkP
08-24-2006, 11:57 AM
I guess you could check to make sure all of your ground connections are good/clean/tight? OR you could do what I did when I had a similar problem with my old Nautique. I took it to Ed’s Generator Service. They “checked” everything and determined I needed my alternator re-built. About 80 bucks later I was on my happy way with no troubles for years and still no issues when I sold the boat 4 years later.

LakePirate
08-24-2006, 12:01 PM
It is not a similar reaction to the kill switch being off.

Can't you take the alternator off and have it's output tested at Napa or somewhere like that?

P-Daddy the more and more I fight this trouble I think it is alternator related.

From what I hear the new magnet style starter is much better than the old plunger style that I have.

bret
08-24-2006, 12:09 PM
My brother in law has one but with a 454. He had alternator problems and the ignition kit that the previous owner put on. He got the alternator rebuilt first and that solved most of his problems but he had to take it back and the shop reworked a bit of the ignition, and now she's back to her bad self - that boat hauls A$$.

Yes, you can pull the alternator and get it checked at most good auto parts stores. Have you had any water in the boat that could have gotten to the starter or starter solenoid?

east tx skier
08-24-2006, 12:11 PM
It is not a similar reaction to the kill switch being off.

Can't you take the alternator off and have it's output tested at Napa or somewhere like that?

P-Daddy the more and more I fight this trouble I think it is alternator related.

From what I hear the new magnet style starter is much better than the old plunger style that I have.

With the kill switch pulled, you should still be able to spin the eninge. So it doesn't sound like that's the culprit.

MarkP
08-24-2006, 12:16 PM
It is not a similar reaction to the kill switch being off.

Can't you take the alternator off and have it's output tested at Napa or somewhere like that?

P-Daddy the more and more I fight this trouble I think it is alternator related.

From what I hear the new magnet style starter is much better than the old plunger style that I have.
I’m sure you could have just the alternator checked.. The Generator shop checked everything though. Don’t you have a good generator shop up in, Ah, “Apartment Purgatory”??

pilot02
08-24-2006, 12:24 PM
I had similar problems with mine some time ago. I ended up having the starter and alternatore rebuilt and found out later that part of the problem was connections and the sensing lead on the alternator wasn't sensing the load like it should so the alternator wasn't charging. Much of the problem was with the various grounds in the boat and especially behind the dash.

LakePirate
08-24-2006, 12:30 PM
Well Griff, if there are problems behind the dash that caused you headaches, I guarantee that I will have issues back there as well. My dash takes a beating, always has. Something about that smooth tristar ride.


Have a great shop in Wedowee that I can run it to. I will have them look at it, see what they think.

But before that I will check all the leads and such.

Apartment Purgatory is very close to Duluth, Ga. I should get paroled sometime in December.

lemphac
08-24-2006, 12:52 PM
working on getting my first mc at this time and like to read the talk, but from my past auto mechanics knowledge sounds like an alternator/voltage regulator problem. suggest removing it and taking it to be tested. suggest an auto electric shop and not autozone/discount ap havent had good luck with reman electrics.

Chief
08-24-2006, 02:49 PM
1. Check the voltage with a multimeter at the battery with engine off. Should be about 12.5 - 12.7VDC this will check the condition of your battery.

2. VOLTAGE TEST: Start engine and check voltage again at the battery. The voltage should read about 13.5 - 15.3VDC. (Try to check with engine at 2000 rpms.) Look for voltage change when rpm's increase. Most alternators are tested at 2000 rpm's.

3. NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLES AND CONNECTIONS: Further test by placing multimeter lead on the negative terminal of the battery and the casing of the alternator and voltage reading should be no higher that .25vdc, if it is higher than .25vdc check battery cable condition and grounding to engine block.

4. POSITIVE BATTERY CABLES AND CONNECTIONS: Place multimeter lead on positive post of battery and the positive cable (Wire) off of alternator (mine is orange). A reading of .35vdc or higher indicates a problem with battery terminal to alternator or fuse block connections. A reading of .75vdc or higher indicates blown fuses or fusible link open.

Note:
Important that battery is fully charged when your doing these checks. If the battery is low on charge then your step #1 readings will be low.

Also turn on as many accessories as possible to load the system.

Hope this helps in isolating the alt.

wesgardner
08-24-2006, 04:06 PM
I won't go into my litany of replacements/checks but I ended up running in a new 10 ga. wire from the large "batt" terminal on the solenoid up to the appropriate terminal on the key switch, then another 10 ga. wire from the "S" terminal on the key switch back to the "S" terminal on the solenoid...this was after eating solenoids due to low voltage/ cranking. click-click-click issues...

My assumption is a bad connection/wire somewhere in the harness...the symptoms were the click of death sometimes and other times it would start fine and other times I'd get not alot as if the battery were dead...a buddy of mine and I checked the voltage at the "S" terminal on the solenoid while "keying" the switch - 7.5 volts...ah oh...

Moral of story - could very well be wiring...

scott88prostar
08-24-2006, 04:57 PM
I put in an additional solenoid and havent had a problem in 3 years....before it was always a problem....they said because its a big block........dont really understand the theory why but it worked for me

wesgardner
08-25-2006, 10:12 AM
I've heard it said with BB's, there's just alot to get moving so it's tough on starters and that all things electrical need to be in top shape supplying the correct volts/amps...I'm a believer