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James O'Keefe
08-22-2006, 11:19 AM
My í93 205 w/ the 4010 is still running poorly:

-I was having hot stalls, erratic idling, and hesitation on acceleration so I cleaned and rebuilt the carb.
-After the rebuild, the needle valves that came with the kit were too short (so floats were set too high) and primary and secondaries were overflowing, and it wouldnít even run below 2,000 rpm.
-I put the original needle valves in and it ran better. It will idle at 600 rpm and runs almost the same as before Ė still has hesitation though.
-After pulling a skier and sitting, it wonít start without giving it throttle. Not just a little throttle, I have to pump it and give it a lot. Once it starts, it spits a little light grayish smoke out the exhaust.
-I think the floats are still set too high, but I have the needles screwed all the way in (exactly how they have been set since Iíve had the boat)
-I read that when setting the floats, a good place to start is to take the top plate off and turn it upside down, and set the floats so they are parallel to the to plate. The primary float is set so high it almost touches the top plate. The secondary is not as bad, but still not parallel. Again, I canít adjust the floats any lower.
-This is the weird part, my air/fuel mixture screws have no affect on idle from being screwed all the way in, to 3 turns out now. They did before the rebuild though.
-My timing was advanced a few years back to about 16-17 BTDC, I set it back to 10-11 BTDC. This did not appear to change the way it ran.
-I replaced the water separator and the fuel filter. I plan to do plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil as well.

I think the main problem is still too much gas, I think itís flooding when I try to restart. I also think that while even though it seems to drive okay, itís not running as smooth as before, maybe a little louder with a little shake to it?

I am frustrated with this, and just donít have enough extra time to keep tinkering. Can someone provide direction? Are my floats set to high? Is that why it wonít start after a run? I have not adjusted the choke at all, could this be part of the issue? Why donít the air/fuel adjustments do anything any more?

NeilM
08-22-2006, 11:37 AM
James, it's been too many years for me, but here's a link to a book that might help...
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/holcarman.html

.. when you rebuilt the carb, did you soak it in Gunk carb cleaner or equivalent first? Did you use compressed air on all the internal passages in the carb body?
... are all the gaskets in place and sealed properly
... in the old days, float height was adjusted by bending the tang that rests against the needle valve, not my how tight the needle valve seats are (but I've never worked on a 4010)

east tx skier
08-22-2006, 11:39 AM
James, everything you just said is what I experienced after buying my boat (same as your boat) in 2003. After a professional rebuild by my local dealer (against their advice) in March 2004 failed to correct any of these issues, I bit the bullet and bought a 4160. My only regret is not doing it sooner. Many others have completely given up on this carb with excellent results.

Plenty may advise you that the hot stalls and poor idle can be adjusted out of that 4010 with different float level adjustments. But I have great faith in my local dealer, who has been doing what he does for over 14 years. It's just not a good carb for a ski boat in my non-expert opinion. The 4160 has performed flawlessly for two seasons and I expect many more out of it. It is expensive up front, but not having to have my wife look so frustrated while I sit in the water is priceless.

Take your 4010 to the nearest Discount Tire location and throw it through their front window. It should prove extremely satisfying.

James O'Keefe
08-22-2006, 02:18 PM
I was just talking to my local dealer's service department. One interesting point he brought up was that Holley will no longer be producing either the 4010 or 4160...

east tx skier
08-22-2006, 03:10 PM
I would get one while you can. I think the replacement is the 4150. Problem is, only place I found them with the vaccuum secondaries was Indmar and they were very expensive. My brother in law has one on his 99 Supra Comp. It seems to perform pretty well.

James O'Keefe
08-22-2006, 05:59 PM
How hard was it to tune the 4160 when you put it on, or did you have it professionally done?

I just don't want to put too much money into a 4010 rebuild, then have to change it out - or - buy the 4160 and not have it fix my problems...

east tx skier
08-22-2006, 06:06 PM
The one from skidim was pretuned for the 351W. Just bolted on (had to buy a new fuel line (you'll probably have to get the flexiline now as the single feed for the 4160 to the indmar style fuel pump is apparently no longer available. The hard line was $12 additional. From there, I had the mechanic at my local shell station install it. Just be careful not to overtorque the fuel line connection to the carb. Only adjustment I made was to the idle. Just a turn of the screw.

Mixture adjustments (which I've never felt compelled to make) are very straightforward and are explained on skidim.com.

Basically, other than getting the idle set, I have never touched it. I just keep the fuel stabilized and try to run it on the hose every so often during the off season.

Jwhitsett1129
08-22-2006, 06:09 PM
James, everything you just said is what I experienced after buying my boat (same as your boat) in 2003. After a professional rebuild by my local dealer (against their advice) in March 2004 failed to correct any of these issues, I bit the bullet and bought a 4160. My only regret is not doing it sooner. Many others have completely given up on this carb with excellent results.

Plenty may advise you that the hot stalls and poor idle can be adjusted out of that 4010 with different float level adjustments. But I have great faith in my local dealer, who has been doing what he does for over 14 years. It's just not a good carb for a ski boat in my non-expert opinion. The 4160 has performed flawlessly for two seasons and I expect many more out of it. It is expensive up front, but not having to have my wife look so frustrated while I sit in the water is priceless.

Take your 4010 to the nearest Discount Tire location and throw it through their front window. It should prove extremely satisfying.

This is something I have been considering. How much does the 4160 run?

east tx skier
08-22-2006, 06:11 PM
$499 at skidim. Others have mentioned getting them for around $250, but I can't remember where they got them. Just make sure it is a marine carb. Skidim had some remanufactured ones at one point. Mine was new and I paid $419 plus $12 for the fuel line.

By the way, the rumor about no more hard lines is apparently true. The only one I see on skidim right now is for the PCM fuel pump.

James O'Keefe
08-23-2006, 09:46 AM
I figured a few things out last night. For one, how to properly adjust the needle valves. My embarrasing mistake... The adjustment was just the opposite of what I thought. That being said, I set the floats so they were level.

Also, the screws that fasten the nozzle bar assembly are different for the primary and secondaries. One screw is hollow, with a pin inside it - not exactly sure why? Anyways, I had that screw in the primaries instead of the secondaries, which is why my air/fuel mix screws were not working.

It's running normal again, at least as good as before the rebuild. I still have the hesitation that I was trying to alleviate. I'm going to do cap/rotor/wires/plugs/coil and make sure the springs and weights are working properly. If that doesn't help, I'll guess I'll just live with it...