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dsoby
11-10-2004, 09:24 PM
I'm thinking of installing a heater and am looking for ANY information. Do you recommend a 2 or 3 port heater? Where/how is the factory installed hardware located? Which electrical switch is used? A local dealer recently told me that although the heaters have several speeds, only the low speed is worth wiring. Do the higher speeds work very well? If using a 3 port heater, is the third port routed to the windshield? Is this defog configuration worth pulling the windshield and drilling a hole in the dash? Any informaton would be appreciated.

JimN
11-10-2004, 09:55 PM
2 or 3 depends on how many people you have in the boat and whether they will all need heat. If you get the larger one, you can set it up with only 2 outlets and cover the third at first.

Use whatever switch is available. If you don't have an unused one, you can add one somewhere. The controls usually are located under the motor box on a flat place where the hoses can be routed to without hitting the pulleys and other moving parts of the motor, or being in the way during an oil change. You'll need to decide if the defog vents are necessary. You could use a small fan for that, if you decide that you don't want to go through all of the work you mentioned.

jmac197
11-10-2004, 10:13 PM
I had the dealer install my heater when I bought the boat. I have an 02 ps 197, basically the same boat as you. The heater is installed behind the driver's foot well. It's the two port model with one port aimed at the driver's feet and the other, a flexable tube coming out below the observer's seat. Your dealer can get you the MC rocker switch for that OEM look. It is put in the dashboard. Just take out one of the unused ASSC. switches. I have 2 speeds, but the heater is capable of three. The third wire is cut off at the motor. Having a low and a high is very useful. I am the primary driver, but like to get my sets in early. When I get out it's nice to crank up the heat, but with the outlet right at my feet it tends to really cook.

I still have the boat in the garage. I'll take some pics if you like. Send me your email.

dsoby
11-10-2004, 10:50 PM
Thanks to both Jims. My e-mail is: dsoby@msn.com

jimmer2880
11-11-2004, 06:23 AM
I have the 3-port heatercraft & installed it myself. I have to completely disagree with your dealer. I ONLY ever use the high speed. I use the 4-pos switch (off-low-med-high) off of my acc1 factory rocker switch. However, if I were to do it again, I'd ditch the 4-pos & only wire up to the rocker switch on High.

It's not a hard install - but you'll be working on your head (if you're lucky, that's all you'll be working on). I plumbed much of my line in 2" PVC since it was snaking around my battery box to blow out at the passenger's feet on my '95 PS 190.

Be sure you put a brass cut-off valve on your supply line so that you can use the heater as a fan when you need A/C.

Absolutely worth the $$$'s.

mitch
11-11-2004, 07:57 AM
I agree w/ Jimmer. I installed the 2 outlet myself on my last boat (89 Tristar), and it was pretty easy, but time consuming. I only had the boat one season after that. I'm doing my 205 this spring. I used high only and will set it up that way next time. For the passenger pullout vent, I plan to install is in the walkway to the openbow, like Malibu. Well worth the $300, No interest in the defogger. Good luck

phecksel
11-11-2004, 12:01 PM
I use both high and low positions, although high is most frequently used. Also make sure you have a "hot tube" (retractable hose). I've only once needed defrost, and really really needed it, but we didn't install that option :) Something about being out in a heavy snow storm LOL

AirJunky
11-11-2004, 03:10 PM
I picked up the 3 vent heater core & split 2 of them for a total of 5 vents. 2 go to the windshield, 2 snorkels & one under the driver's dash. One of the two snorkels is 6' long. Plus we have a pair of HotWrap boat blankets with the heater hole. So two people can sit in the passenger seat under a blanket with a heater snorkel & 2 more in the back seat with a blanket & heater snorkel. We usually use the heater on high.
I also installed the newer intake adapter from Heatercraft down on the raw water pump instead of the motor's water pump. Their rationale on it was that the raw water pump pumps more volume than the engine's does so it delivers heat at idle RPMs.

nattylightmike
11-11-2004, 11:14 PM
Go to www.heatercraft.com they make all of the parts you will need if you want to do the install yourself. I went to the factory last spring they were very helpfull gave me a tour of the factory and everything. I got two of their "hot-tubes", it's a good idea you can pull them out and stick the vent down your wetsuit or whatever so they aren't just blowing on your feet. They are mounted underneath the observers seat and they gave me enough hose to reach all the way to the back seat. I mounted the other vent next to my sub in the wall that I built underneath the dash. They told me that they make alot of heater parts for ski boats. The "hot-tubes" I got from them were an exact replacement for the old ones. As for the speeds of the heater we only use HI up here in Washington

dsoby
11-18-2004, 12:05 PM
Thanks for the info, guys. I ordered the 3 vent model with an extra hot tube and a raw water adapter. I'm planning to run one vent to the driver's kick panel and the other two under the observer's seat with the hot tubes. One last question. Where/how do you route the vent hose to the observer's side on an open bow boat like the 197?

VTJC
11-18-2004, 01:57 PM
This summer I installed three port heater into my boat. One vent goes to the driverís feet, second under the observer seat. The third is a hot tube that points from under observer seat to just in front of drivers seat. That way the driver gets two when we donít have an observer and the observer can use the hot tube under a blanket.

I also installed a shower, which I find even better than the heater.

I am now looking to improver the heat at idle. I have heard about a pump kit similar to the pump on the shower, does anybody know more about this?

Jamie

AirJunky
11-18-2004, 05:32 PM
I am now looking to improver the heat at idle. I have heard about a pump kit similar to the pump on the shower, does anybody know more about this?


Hey Jamie,
Give Heatercraft a call or email & ask for the newer intake adapter that goes down on the raw water pump instead of the motor's water pump. Their rationale on it was that the raw water pump pumps more volume than the engine's does so it delivers heat at idle RPMs.

Dsoby, I ran the hose up front & around the bow under the gunnels. It was a helluva chore too. Good luck.

VTJC
11-18-2004, 11:05 PM
AirJunky,

Thanks for the reply. I have emailed and called(over past month and a half) Heater Craft, unfortunately they stopped replying. I have asked skidim to check but they also havenít gotten back. I would like to make this upgrade this winter. Jamie

dsoby
11-19-2004, 12:00 AM
Thanks for the info Bill. I was afraid of that. I suppose that I should start looking for some extra defroster hose.

Jamie, Give SIKDIM a call. The part you are interested is #H424.

dsoby
12-01-2004, 08:41 PM
Okay Guys,
I bought the 3 port heater and am now looking at the size of the radiator box. Before I start pulling the boat apart, has anyone installed or had a 3 port heater installed in a PS197 or X-7? It looks too big to fit in front of the driver's kick plate.

dsoby
12-22-2004, 01:20 PM
As a follow up. The 3 port heater does not fit behind the kick panel on the 197/X7. SKIDIM and Heatercraft have been very helpful in exchanging the 3 port for a 2 port.

NSXBill
12-22-2004, 03:18 PM
Here are some pics of my 2001 PS 209 with factory installed 2-port heater.


Two views show how the hoses connect to the head and water pump.


In the view under the observer's seat, you can barely see the hot tube extension in the lower left and the duct snaking around in the upper left of the picture.

The factory 3-way switch is High-Off-Low.

jimmer2880
12-29-2004, 06:25 AM
Here are some pics of my 2001 PS 209 with factory installed 2-port heater.


Two views show how the hoses connect to the head and water pump.


In the view under the observer's seat, you can barely see the hot tube extension in the lower left and the duct snaking around in the upper left of the picture.

The factory 3-way switch is High-Off-Low.
Very interesting pic 2a. That's not where Heatercraft had me place my line. I'll have to look to see if I have a similiar port on my '95 TBI.

NSXBill
01-03-2005, 06:59 AM
Before I got my boat, I looked at a 2000 PS 205 w/ TBI and it had the 2a port plugged into the top, front left of the intake manifold...Don't know if it was factory install or not. HTH

jake
04-01-2005, 12:13 PM
Can anyone post pictures of their heater on a early 90's prostar 190? I need to know where to mount the heat exchanger as well as where to plug the supply line into the engine.

AirJunky
04-01-2005, 12:44 PM
Early 90s, huh. Maybe this will apply & maybe not. A couple years ago I had a chance to work with the R&D dept at Heatercraft. They had just developed a new supply method for their heaters. I see now that Ski DIM is carrying the Y adapter (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=H424&variation=&aitem=3&mitem=4)
The adapter replaces hose 1a.JPG in NSXBill's pics & installs in the hose between your intake grate & the raw water pump, the point being that this pump supplies more volume of water at low RPMs so you get heat at idle speeds.
Works like a charm on my '94 which has a GM motor. I don't know if it works on the Ford or not.

As for the heater core itself, I mounted mine under the glovebox in front of the spotter's seat. There is a tube there to run your water lines into the bilge & to the motor. When you get your lines installed, install an automotive radiator flush T in each one at the lowest point in the system. When it comes to winterizing the boat, all you need to do is open the flush T caps & drain the heater into the bilge.

jimmer2880
04-04-2005, 07:33 PM
I mounted mine in my '95 PS190 at the end of the driver's feet. Works well.

AirJunky
04-04-2005, 07:39 PM
I mounted mine in my '95 PS190 at the end of the driver's feet. Works well.
While I've seen this install done numerous times, I rationalized that IF the core ever failed & leaked, I certianly did not want it to leak all over the electronics in the dash....... which is exactly what I've seen happen in a car. If it fails over on the passenger side, big deal, the boat gets a little wet.
I also have the amp mounted on the driver's side. And see many others have their sub under there. So there might not be much room. And no way is there room for the larger 3 vent heater.

WakePowell
04-04-2005, 09:44 PM
I sure wish you guys worked at the Mastercraft factory. This way my heater would have been installed correctly in my 2005 X-45. They installed mine with the fixed vent towards the interior of the boat and the snorkel pull out vent at the drivers feet!!!! This way the fixed vent does not provide any heat and the snorkel has to be drug out between the drivers feet. When my wife saw this she started given me hell about selling our old boat and buying this one. At my rate this boat will spend three hours in the shop for every one hour of use. God I love it!!

jake
04-04-2005, 10:18 PM
I ended up mounting mine behind the passenger seat, right up tight to the hull. It's tucked pretty cleanly out of the way, can't even see it when you look into the bow storrage area. This way, it is very close to the two hot tubes which are mounted bellow the observer seat, so the heat should be pretty good there. It ended up being a sort of long distance from the drivers vent, but hopefully I'll still get good heat output there.

I took the advice posted here and wired the fan directly to one of my accessory switches, fixed on "high". This seemed a much better option than drilling a hole in my dash for the provided three speed switch. I figured worst case I decide I want the three speeds and drill the hole later.

Interresting side note, I spent the whole day installing the heater and perfect pass. Started with the heater (installation instructions sucked) and then did perfect pass (really good instructions). Really made me appreciate the extra effort perfect pass goes through to provide the exact boat model specific instructions. Heater took about 4 hours, and perfect pass took less than an hour. Some of that had to do with having to work up under the bow for the heater, but PP instructions sure made it easier.

I'm out of town on business right now, but I'll try to post some pics of the heater install when I get home.

lakes Rick
04-04-2005, 11:09 PM
When my wife saw this she started given me hell

Not a boat problem......

jimmer2880
04-05-2005, 11:38 AM
While I've seen this install done numerous times, I rationalized that IF the core ever failed & leaked, I certianly did not want it to leak all over the electronics in the dash....... which is exactly what I've seen happen in a car. If it fails over on the passenger side, big deal, the boat gets a little wet.
I also have the amp mounted on the driver's side. And see many others have their sub under there. So there might not be much room. And no way is there room for the larger 3 vent heater.

Actually, mine is a 3-vent heater. Also, the core is enclosed in a metal box. So - actually if the core went bad, the water will run out of the box onto the carpet, but not spray anything. At least you'd know right away if it went bad.

AirJunky
04-05-2005, 12:21 PM
Hmmm, how wide is your 3 vent box, Jimmer? I tried to get mine in on the driver's side & the thing is like 2 feet wide with 2 large fans on it. It almost sounds like you have the smaller 2 vent, single fan & they've split one of the vents with a Y. I think this is the only core that would fit in my 205.
Also, the metal box doesn't seem to help when the water drained down to the fans & then the fans blew the water all over inside the dash....... till the circuit breaker popped.

jimmer2880
04-25-2005, 07:19 AM
Actually, mine is a 3-vent heater. Also, the core is enclosed in a metal box. So - actually if the core went bad, the water will run out of the box onto the carpet, but not spray anything. At least you'd know right away if it went bad.

As luck would have it - my core did go out this spring (guess I didn't get all the water out of it during winterization). Water was poring out of the box. Actually - I'm glad that it was at my feet, so I noticed it immediately & shut off the valve. But - no spray, since it was in the box.