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View Full Version : X30 Nightmare.............


cruddud
08-01-2004, 11:41 PM
Well I am new to this board and I come at my wits end with my 2003 X30. I have owned the boat since last February and have had nothing but problems with it. Alternator brackets broke, ballast system continueing to fail, Perfect Pass not working, fuel pump, fuel gauge reading improperly........need I continue! My main concern at this point is the Perfect Pass - since we got the boat the Perfect pass will work for a while and then all of a sudden it starts surging when pulling a wakeboarder. We recently connected with Perfect Pass directly and they suggested we replace the paddlewheel. We did that and took the boat out today and it was working fine and then after being on the lake for about 4 hours it acted up again - fit began to surge up and down 5-8 mph and then a loud beep began - turned off the perfect pass and tried again and the surging began again. Now right before the surging began we had filled the ballasts for the first time of the day - so we are not sure if this is related....UGH - anyone have any ideas on this annoyance!!

I am a die hard Mastercrafy owner and I have been really let down by this X30 and am frustrated with the problems in the short time and hours I have had the boat - I think we own a lemon!!! I have tried to get a hold of Mastercraft and only get to leave a message and no one replies- another let down - maybe they want MC owners to buy Natiques or Malibus, etc. I surely hope not! Any advice would be a plus!!

Thanks

TTAdmin
08-02-2004, 12:00 AM
Cruddud...

I'm sorry that you are having so many problems with your boat. Send me a private message with your contact information, who your local dealer is, and a list of the issues. I will help you get this addressed asap.

east tx skier
08-02-2004, 12:24 PM
C'dud, where is the factory paddle wheel located on the X-30? This is just a shot in the dark as I am a slalom guy, and typically in RPM mode on the PP, but it sounds almost as if the paddle wheel is out of the water (maybe when the boat is loaded up in the rear with ballast).

This probably isn't the problem, but just a thought.

Sorry you're having so much trouble with your new boat.

JimN
08-02-2004, 01:24 PM
There is an adaptor with a filter on it, available from PP to get rid of surging(hunting) and it apparently works, if it's the same problem that the new boats are having.

DanC
08-02-2004, 01:32 PM
Doug and Jim have mentioned two issues that Mastercraft is working on. See www.mymastercraft.com for more details on both issues. I believe Mastercraft is relocating the paddlewheel on the X-30s

DanC
08-02-2004, 03:30 PM
"hunting" thread solved by the filter
http://www.mymastercraft.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=91

Relocating the paddlewheel thread
http://www.mymastercraft.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=85
Sorry, it wasn't the X-30 it was the X-10. But may still be applicable to the X-30?

If it works fine without ballast you may need to adjust your Perfect Pass KDW and NN settings. The Perfect Pass User's Guide explains how and why. It is also available on line at http://www.perfectpass.com/systemguides.html

The wakeboard boards have lots of threads with people sharing their KDW settings for their boats and ballast setups.

east tx skier
08-02-2004, 03:57 PM
That stinks about the speedo on the X-10. I would not be thrilled to have to have a paddle wheel speedo moved, with the only solution being a plug in the old hole.

cruddud
08-02-2004, 05:04 PM
Thanks so much for the info on the Perfect Pass - totally makes sense and at this point our dealer has never mentioned it. It makes sense that it would act up when the ballasts were full in the back because that would just make the paddlewheel come out of the water even more. It is great that there is this site of Mastercraft Owners - you're awesome!!

Craig

east tx skier
08-02-2004, 06:20 PM
Hey, that was just a shot in the dark, but it doesn't sound like it's applicable to the X-30. But who knows. You might want to look into that filter that Perfect Pass has, too.

DanC
08-02-2004, 08:09 PM
First check the KDW setting. No boat with ballast will run well with factory settings.

1. Check KDW and NN settings
2. Line filter for the paddlewheel
3. If you are filling only the rear ballast and not the center ballast, then you are not weighting your boat for an optimal wake. Wakeboarders (and the boats are designed this way) like to weight a boat with 40% up front, 60% in back. Some will even say closer to 50-50. If the paddlewheel location is the problem, you will notice the surging crossing large swells and crossing wakes.

No matter what you do you will still get surging in turns. Mine is dialed in pretty well and will surge a bit on any turn >45 degrees.

east tx skier
08-03-2004, 11:30 AM
Dan, is your factory paddlewheel mounted just aft of the driver's seat? Also, why is speed mode (as opposed to RPM mode) more accurate under 24 mph or whatever the cutoff is?

DanC
08-03-2004, 12:58 PM
I think my paddlewheel is mounted about a foot behind the ski pylon, a couple of inches to the starboard of the center line. I need to look at the paddlewheel closer. I took it out once (while on the water :eek3: ) and maybe I didn't put it back in square. I hear that can cause inconsistancies.

I haven't been able to play with the Perfect Pass much. Playing with it usually means somebody is getting a lousy pull :o . So I have just been trying to learn from everyone else. Speed/mph mode for the slower speeds works better than RPM mode because it takes fairly large adjustments in RPM to maintain those speeds. With ballast, it requires even larger RPM changes to hold speed. Before I had PP, it was a lot of work to hold 20 mph. At slower speeds, the smallest change is boat attitude (caused by anything from boat wakes to small turns) causes speed changes.

Leroy
08-04-2004, 11:56 PM
Great explaination Dan!

On my 230 VRS Maristar the sensor is just behind the pylon and port of center. Hope you get your problems solved

Also, put another way, if you think of RPM to speed, at higher speeds, RPM is exactly equal to a speed, and if you set to RPM mode at higher speeds then you don't have any variation from the perfect pass paddle (water currents, paddle variations, etc). At slower speeds like Dan said RPM doesn't equal speed so at slower speeds you are best to use speed mode and it doesn't control to the speed as well as RPM mode at higher speed, but for sure better than RPM mode at slow speed.

On the flip side, I have tried speed mode at higher speeds and that still seems to work well to me, but maybe I didn't pay close enough attention. Anyone know of the problem there?

jimmer2880
08-05-2004, 08:14 AM
Not to argue with you.... but well - I am. While you're correct that RPM=Speed - that is without a load. Ever pull a 32off skier through the course trying to maintain that 34 mph? You are constantly giving it more throttle during the cuts. That's why they say that the 4-blades props give better course perfomance (or at least the non-cnc'd props).

Does PP use RPM speed for course skiers? If they do, then maybe I need to watch the tach one day. I assumed that it was prop slip.

I think I just talked myself into thinking I was wrong before...:eek3:

east tx skier
08-05-2004, 11:40 AM
As someone who gets 36 mph (by gps) at 3450 RPMs, I'll assert that RPM does not equal speed as a general rule (but it's a good way to estimate it if you don't have your GPS handy).

Perfect pass in slalom mode uses the RPM based control (above 24 mph). With the optional slalom switch, it will adjust for skier pull. Without the switch, it makes adjustments for tolerable course time (based on preset speeds varying by incriments just shy of 2 mph, i.e. 36 mph, 34.2 mph, etc.) using the magnets.

Somebody please correct me if I don't have this right.

G-man
08-05-2004, 01:01 PM
As someone who gets 36 mph (by gps) at 3450 RPMs, I'll assert that RPM does not equal speed as a general rule (but it's a good way to estimate it if you don't have your GPS handy).

Perfect pass in slalom mode uses the RPM based control (above 24 mph). With the optional slalom switch, it will adjust for skier pull. Without the switch, it makes adjustments for tolerable course time (based on preset speeds varying by incriments just shy of 2 mph, i.e. 36 mph, 34.2 mph, etc.) using the magnets.

Somebody please correct me if I don't have this right.


Doug you almost have it or I misunderstood what you said. The magnet pick-ups only relay timing information to the perfect pass. They do not do any adjustments to speed as you go through the course. The driver at the end of a pass can review the times and make changes if needed.

east tx skier
08-05-2004, 01:23 PM
Thanks, George. I didn't have it quite right. I should've said driver is prompted to make adjustments at the end of the pass if course timing is not withing tolerance for that speed.

DanC
08-05-2004, 02:55 PM
My :twocents:

Before PP we all used to drive slalom by listening to the engine as well as watching the tach because those indicators were more instantaneous and precise than any speedometer. PP does the same thing with a computer.

Before PP we all used to drive trick skiing and wakeboarding by watching the wake. You could see small indicators in the shape of the wake change withour any change to RPM or before the speedometer could react.