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jeverett
08-07-2006, 03:02 PM
I love my MC and so far it has been really reliable. After a great day on the lake Sat. I started to have some trouble.
Symptoms:
1) engine idles rough intermittently. Rev. it up and then it idles fine.
2) After a few pulls with the kids learning to wakeboard (another thread later). Started idleing really rough, so I took it out and ran it a bit.
3) After lunch and a rest went to start and wouln't idle without giving some gas and runs really rough, with ticking nois comming from the starboard side.
4) pulled the spark plugs and all look fine except the second cylendar on the starboard side look like no fire.

Remedies thus far:
1) replaced plus but did not fix problem.

Next:
going to replace cap, rotor, and wires. if that doesn't work I am going to have to tear into the valve cover and see what is going on.

Any other suggestions??

Hoff1
08-07-2006, 03:07 PM
Could be that the wire was loose or bad, that's what I'd hope for at least.

I started my boat up one time with one of the wires disconnected and it was shaking like crazy. It's amazing how out of balance the engine is with only 7 cylinders working.

jeverett
08-07-2006, 03:31 PM
Could be that the wire was loose or bad, that's what I'd for at least.

I started my boat up one time with one of the wires disconnected and it was shaking like crazy. It's amazing how out of balance the engine is with only 7 cylinders working.


Thanks I hope that is all it is it will just be a $45.00 solution to the problem.

bret
08-07-2006, 04:15 PM
Could this be a lifter sticking, the ticking sound coming from a rocker arm? Not sure what year boat you have, looked at the pics, 91-94...

I had posted this on my boat about a year ago and got a couple of responses about lifters, and I called Allen Tehan who also confirmed that it could be lifters; they got this after running the test engines for 48 hours straight. My syptoms were running early over to the slalom course, when I came through the NO wake zone and came to idle, I got a rough idle and ticking noise. Rev it or shut it down, it would go away.

I replaced the lifters and haven't had the problem since, I aslo switched the boat off Mobil 1 to Valvoline VR1 racing oil.

jeverett
08-07-2006, 06:56 PM
Could this be a lifter sticking, the ticking sound coming from a rocker arm? Not sure what year boat you have, looked at the pics, 91-94...

I had posted this on my boat about a year ago and got a couple of responses about lifters, and I called Allen Tehan who also confirmed that it could be lifters; they got this after running the test engines for 48 hours straight. My syptoms were running early over to the slalom course, when I came through the NO wake zone and came to idle, I got a rough idle and ticking noise. Rev it or shut it down, it would go away.

I replaced the lifters and haven't had the problem since, I aslo switched the boat off Mobil 1 to Valvoline VR1 racing oil.

Thanks bret:

I am running rotella right now and may switch to VR1. It may be a lifter though I am going to change out the cap, rotor, and wires first to rule out electrical. The plug looks like there is no fire. on cylinder #2

jeverett
08-07-2006, 06:57 PM
Bret:

Are the lifters a difficult job to replace?

chico
08-07-2006, 07:44 PM
I also had bad lifters in my 94 prostar.after a hard pull it would run rough&tick.no problems since.

chico
08-07-2006, 07:48 PM
it took 2 hrs to change the lifters.pull the distributor,drain the water,disconnect hoses,lines,pull the intake,back off the rocker arms.change all the lifters and use plenty of pre lube.if you want to see which lifter is bad start it up with the valve cover off and it will be the one shooting over the side of the boat.good luck.

jeverett
08-07-2006, 08:03 PM
Chico thanks for the info: I hope it doesn't come to that but it will be a fun weekend project anyway. Is there a good general ref. manual for doing this type of engine work?

chico
08-07-2006, 09:33 PM
any ford manual will work.dont forget new intake gaskets and silicone.

jeverett
08-09-2006, 03:22 PM
The update: pulled the valve covrer last night, and I think that I have a stuck valve in cylendar no. 2. I am just praying that it didn't slap the piston head. Going to pull the heads tonight and have them rebuilt and magnafluxed. Should I have the bottom end rebuilt as well? If I don't like what I see I am going to do it anyway!

jeverett
08-09-2006, 07:23 PM
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jeverett
08-11-2006, 01:28 PM
Well I got the heads off and they definately need attention. Here are some pictures to show. I am thanking God that the valve did not go through the piston head:)

The heads are at the machine shop right now. The bad news is that we will be off the water for about 2 weeks while the heads get re-worked. I have decided to replace the lifters and rebuild the Carb while I have it all apart.

Dan K
08-11-2006, 02:41 PM
I would have looked at a set of GT40 heads at this point. I am not sure how much the machine work will cost you but the GT40 heads are a definite horspower boost. While it is apart the lower end will not be that much more work and you will then know what you have. I did my heads a few years ago and ended up doing the lower end, bad bearing a year later. should have done it all together and saved myself the downtime.

jeverett
08-11-2006, 04:06 PM
I would have looked at a set of GT40 heads at this point. I am not sure how much the machine work will cost you but the GT40 heads are a definite horspower boost. While it is apart the lower end will not be that much more work and you will then know what you have. I did my heads a few years ago and ended up doing the lower end, bad bearing a year later. should have done it all together and saved myself the downtime.


To rework these heads is only going to cost about $500.00 total and GT 40 heads are $650.00 each at SKIDIM.com so I don't think it is in the cards right now. I have given some thaught to the lower end and if it were winter there would be no question I would do it. It may be a foolish decision but I want to get back on the water sooner and perhaps I might tear the engine out this winter, or wait till spring and sell and trade up to a 205 or a 209. One thing I am for sure going to do is change out those lifters, I have heard several guys on this board having problems with the lifters on '90-'94 351w's. It is going to be nice and pretty when I get er back together.

T-Rager
08-11-2006, 04:32 PM
It appears that the valve seat has fallen out of the head casting. How many hours are on the engine?

rcnjson
08-11-2006, 05:10 PM
This may be a stupid question... but when did the manufacturer stop recommending leaded gas? My boat is old, my friends boat is newer, but still old, and the manufacturer (PCM for him and Commander for me) requires leaded gas. I put new heads (Canfield aluminum monsters) on my boat so I know my seats are good, my friend still has the stockers on his and runs unleaded. I know that one of the issues with heads that were supposed to be used with leaded gas is the seat hardness. I would expect a seat failure if the head was specified to run on leaded gas and it was run on unleaded gas.

As far as the GT40 heads go, I think $650 a pop is a rip. Were talking about the cast iron ones here, you can get a pair off an explorer for $300 maybe get some nice roller rockers with'em for that price. Even if you need a valve job, you'll be in to those for less than one Skidim head. You can get a set of AFR aluminum heads for $1300 and they'll look like jewelry next to a set of cast iron heads. Not to mention make more power...
that my friends is my $.02 and $.02
k

jeverett
08-11-2006, 05:17 PM
It appears that the valve seat has fallen out of the head casting. How many hours are on the engine?

Yup! thats exactly what happened. I am having the heads machined and new parts put back in. The boat has about 1000 hours on it.

jeverett
08-11-2006, 05:22 PM
This may be a stupid question... but when did the manufacturer stop recommending leaded gas? My boat is old, my friends boat is newer, but still old, and the manufacturer (PCM for him and Commander for me) requires leaded gas. I put new heads (Canfield aluminum monsters) on my boat so I know my seats are good, my friend still has the stockers on his and runs unleaded. I know that one of the issues with heads that were supposed to be used with leaded gas is the seat hardness. I would expect a seat failure if the head was specified to run on leaded gas and it was run on unleaded gas.

As far as the GT40 heads go, I think $650 a pop is a rip. Were talking about the cast iron ones here, you can get a pair off an explorer for $300 maybe get some nice roller rockers with'em for that price. Even if you need a valve job, you'll be in to those for less than one Skidim head. You can get a set of AFR aluminum heads for $1300 and they'll look like jewelry next to a set of cast iron heads. Not to mention make more power...
that my friends is my $.02 and $.02
k


The boat is a '93 which is long after leaded gas. I am going to stay with what I got given I might sell the boat and move up to a 209 or something like that. Don't get me wrong the boat will be right I just don't see putting a bunch of money into it when I won't get it out in the end.