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View Full Version : A few more newbie questions - 94 ProStar


kpickett
11-07-2004, 06:04 PM
Hi Guys,

I took my new boat out on the lake yesterday - ran like a top. My overheating problem seems to just have been the ball of weeds in the system. Everything checked out beautifully. Took a couple skis. I slalomed and tricked, and my wife slalomed. It was fantastic - best wake I've ever skied (except maybe the 04 Nautique - just because the Nautique has no rooster tail bump). The best part is that my wife loved to ski it and ESPECIALLY loved to drive it! We won't put the course in again until next spring, but we may get a few more outings before winter. It was 75 degrees, water 63.

Here are my newbie questions:

1. The driver's seat cushion slides forward with no resistance. It's kind of annoying. Should there be something on the bottom of the cushion that holds it in place?

2. Anyone know the length and weight rating of the gas springs that hold up the motor box - 94 LT-1? My springs are missing.

3. The boat has a shower - don't know what brand - with a pump mounted just above the battery in the stern. The cold water is hooked up, but there is no hot water hose hooked up. I found a little brass fitting in the glove box that looks like it should replace the port side engine block drain petcock. Does that sound right? It has a hose barb on one end. Does the hot water hose just feed right out of the engine block?

4. This boat has a heater - again don't know the brand. When I winterize, what do I do to drain the heater out? just remove the hoses off heater unit?

5. I changed the oil, and bought the Mastercraft oil filter from the dealer. It's half as high as the one I replaced. Does that sound right? Is there a NAPA filter I should be using? Anyone have the part number? 351 LT-1 engine.

6. I know there have been other threads about this, but anyone have recommendations on oil? Should I be using a multi-grade or a straight grade. My old Sanger wants a straight grade, but the dealer told me they use a 25-40 weight oil made by Mercruiser. Also, should I switch to a synthetic?

7. Both the bow lifting ring and the ski pylon are just slightly loose. Any words on how to tighten them up?

Sorry for the barrage of questions, and I'm sure I'll have more soon, but this board has been really helpful so far.

Thanks very much,

Kyle

Bert
11-07-2004, 10:11 PM
Hi Guys,

1. The driver's seat cushion slides forward with no resistance. It's kind of annoying. Should there be something on the bottom of the cushion that holds it in place?
2. Anyone know the length and weight rating of the gas springs that hold up the motor box - 94 LT-1? My springs are missing.
3. The boat has a shower - don't know what brand - with a pump mounted just above the battery in the stern. The cold water is hooked up, but there is no hot water hose hooked up. I found a little brass fitting in the glove box that looks like it should replace the port side engine block drain petcock. Does that sound right? It has a hose barb on one end. Does the hot water hose just feed right out of the engine block?
4. This boat has a heater - again don't know the brand. When I winterize, what do I do to drain the heater out? just remove the hoses off heater unit?
5. I changed the oil, and bought the Mastercraft oil filter from the dealer. It's half as high as the one I replaced. Does that sound right? Is there a NAPA filter I should be using? Anyone have the part number? 351 LT-1 engine.
6. I know there have been other threads about this, but anyone have recommendations on oil? Should I be using a multi-grade or a straight grade. My old Sanger wants a straight grade, but the dealer told me they use a 25-40 weight oil made by Mercruiser. Also, should I switch to a synthetic?
7. Both the bow lifting ring and the ski pylon are just slightly loose. Any words on how to tighten them up?
Sorry for the barrage of questions, and I'm sure I'll have more soon, but this board has been really helpful so far.

Thanks very much,

Kyle
1) There should be two blocks attached to the bottom of the front edge of the seat cushion. You push the cushion all the way back before you set the front down and the blocks prevent it from sliding forward.
2) Sorry my 91 doesn't have those.
3) Yes, mine comes from the port side. The fitting replaces the petcock and the hot and cold are connected together with a y valve so the temperature feeding the pump can be adjusted.
4) All I have ever done is remove the hoses from the engine block and blow them out
5) Don't know that one. I have a ford.
6) I have used Mobil 1 15W-50 since new without any problems.
7) The bow ring is intentionally loose to prevent cracking the deck when lifting. What do you mean by slightly loose pylon? It is attached by U bolts through angle iron brackets.

mgurley
11-08-2004, 07:32 AM
Small detail but???

5) LT-1 should be 350ci

east tx skier
11-08-2004, 10:14 AM
4. For the heater, I think I've read that you just need to disconnect all the hoses and either blow or shake them out to make sure there's no water in there.

5. There are both high profile filters and low profile filter. Call Vince or Richard at skidim (www.skidim.com). They will be able to tell you if you got the right filter.

6. Indmar is recommending 15W40 currently. I don't know if it's different for the LT1, but they recommended it for my 351HO. My brother in law has the Chevy 350 on his supra and his oil cap says Penzoil 15W40 on it.

Bert, that's interesting about the bow ring. Good to know because I've often considered tightening mine up a bit. I won't worry about it now.

Anybody lift by the rings? My father in law is building one of the biggest boat houses I've seen. He's going to have two slips with two cradles, but only one for a MasterCraft (the other is for a future possible pontoon boat. I was thinking that if he attaches the cradle to the cables with lifting hooks, we could remove the cradle and just hook my boat up when I'm in town. Both are 4000 lb lifts.

jimmer2880
11-08-2004, 11:36 AM
I lifted my old Supra with the rear ring once. Talk about creaking & cracking! I don't want to do that again!

My advice, don't do it unless that's your ONLY option.

east tx skier
11-08-2004, 11:59 AM
There's a launch two houses over. If the weather looks bad, I'll just put it on the trailer.

Thrall
11-08-2004, 03:32 PM
[QUOTE=kpickett]Hi Guys,


2. Anyone know the length and weight rating of the gas springs that hold up the motor box - 94 LT-1? My springs are missing.

Weight rating is not that important, motor box is just about at the balancing pt. when they're extended, just get the same length. You can disconnect them and the box will open and rest on the back seat without falling, in the mean time.

3. The boat has a shower - don't know what brand - with a pump mounted just above the battery in the stern. The cold water is hooked up, but there is no hot water hose hooked up. I found a little brass fitting in the glove box that looks like it should replace the port side engine block drain petcock. Does that sound right? It has a hose barb on one end. Does the hot water hose just feed right out of the engine block?

Yes


5. I changed the oil, and bought the Mastercraft oil filter from the dealer. It's half as high as the one I replaced. Does that sound right? Is there a NAPA filter I should be using? Anyone have the part number? 351 LT-1 engine.

350 LT-1 and yes, Napa will have it, just tell 'em it's a 95 Chev LT-1. There are optional higher capacity filters, not really necessary though, IMO. Oil change intervals are pretty regular on your boat, I hope, and they don't see much dust to contaminate the oil.

6. I know there have been other threads about this, but anyone have recommendations on oil? Should I be using a multi-grade or a straight grade. My old Sanger wants a straight grade, but the dealer told me they use a 25-40 weight oil made by Mercruiser. Also, should I switch to a synthetic?
I ran 5w40 dino oil this year, brand and type are not as important as changing it on a regular basis. Synthetic is ok, and better protection I suppose. Again, these engines do not get as hot as in a car, less thermal breakdown. Don't lose any sleep over the type of oil.

7. Both the bow lifting ring and the ski pylon are just slightly loose. Any words on how to tighten them up?

Lifting ring should not be tight. Pylon should. Rem the floorboard in front of the motor box. You'll see the two u bolts to tighten up.

Glad you like your boat, I am pleased w/ my 96 PS as well.

JimN
11-08-2004, 04:26 PM
If the oil meets the specs and is the right viscosity, it'll be fine. We've beaten this one to death before, and MC recommends Pennzoil 15W-40 Marine grade. If you want to check with MC on the codes on that particular oil, you should be OK. I have to argue about "these engines don't get as hot as in a car, less thermal breakdown", though. We all have heard about oil coolers getting clogged and impellers losing fins, causing an overheat situation. Also, at idle, sometimes the bleeder lines don't do much when they're mounted too low on the head, so these can run hotter than normal operating temperature. The other thing boat motors do that car motors normally don't, is run at WOT. That shears the oil and the oil film is reduced, so you want something that's made to run hard. Depending on how you run yours, that can have a bit to do with what oil you need. Thinner oil also cools faster than thick oil, but you may see a difference in the oil pressure if you change to something other than the Mercruiser 25W-40. Also, the Sanger has a Mercruiser in it and your dealer may be a Mercruiser dealer, so they make more on that oil. I like the Merc oil, but not the price.

If you want to go back to the taller filter, the AC PF-1218 is what I use on my truck and it's pretty good for anti-siphon, so dry starts are rare. The NAPA and WIX filters are also very good.

Thrall
11-08-2004, 05:41 PM
I have to argue about "these engines don't get as hot as in a car, less thermal breakdown", though. We all have heard about oil coolers getting clogged and impellers losing fins, causing an overheat situation. Also, at idle, sometimes the bleeder lines don't do much when they're mounted too low on the head, so these can run hotter than normal operating temperature. The other thing boat motors do that car motors normally don't, is run at WOT. That shears the oil and the oil film is reduced, so you want something that's made to run hard. Depending on how you run yours, that can have a bit to do with what oil you need. .

Agreed, Jim. What I meant, was under a load, marine engines are running 140-160 deg water temp w/ water cooled exhaust manifolds, as opposed to 180-200 deg water temps and underhood temps that will fry an egg.
Yes they do run on average at higher rpms, but not as much load as many auto and especially light truck engines. Granted, if you have 8 people and 1500# ballast, you're working the engine harder.
My point was, that if you use an oil with the most recent testing standards and the right viscosity range (No straight 10W, of 50W), you'll not have oil related engine problems, regardless of brand.
I've run whatever's on sale at the parts store for many years in vehicles that had high miles put on them and, w/ regular oil changes, have not had any problems. I do run synthetic in my wife's truck, but that's only 'cause I'm getting too lazy to get under it every 3k miles and change it, especially when she was putting on 3-4k mi a month.

lakes Rick
11-08-2004, 07:10 PM
Shorter oil filter

I use the shorter filter on my V-drive.. Much easier to get on and off with out making a mess.. I believe in using the longer filters ( on my cars anyway) where I can.. My boat is changed much more frequently than my cars and never gets dirty, so I think it will survive with the short one.... My 02 cents....

JimN
11-08-2004, 07:32 PM
Thrall- I wasn't busting your chops, I was just being picky. I can definitely see your point in not wanting to change the oil in her truck. So, she wouldn't help you with that, eh? I do agree, though. Keep it clean and don't overheat it.

east tx skier
11-08-2004, 08:05 PM
I'd add that it's not just MC that's recommending the 15W40, it's Indmar.

JimN
11-08-2004, 09:18 PM
Well, yeah. Ultimately, it's Indmar's warranty with MC and their dealers enforcing/supporting it. MC gets the motors and trannies ready to drop in. Even at MC training, we talked about oils and filters. They said that the most important thing is keeping it clean and not to overheat. The fact that they come with Pennzoil is basically a marketing agreement. The dealerships where I worked did sell Pennzoil and I never had any reason to change. It was reasonably priced and came in gallons, which I prefer when I have to do my own oil changes, let alone having to do ten in a day. Faster than opening quart bottles and they take up less space in the dumpsters.

kpickett
11-08-2004, 10:12 PM
Thanks, all, for the replies. I appreciate the advice. Like I said - I didn't want to start anything about the oil, I was just a bit confused by the differing advice.

Another quick question - the engine oil was pretty dirty, so I changed it once, took the boat out for an afternoon, and changed it again. It looks better now. The previous owner had changed the oil in the summer. Any ideas why it would look so dirty? It was pretty black.

Thanks,

Kyle

JimN
11-08-2004, 11:08 PM
If you can do a compression test, it may show that it's a bit low (with a touch of blowby), but if it runs OK and doesn't seem to lack any power, you're probably in good shape. If it runs a bit rich, the oil may have a bit of gas in it. If you take a whiff of the old oil, see if it smells like gas. Some motors seem to make the oil blacker than others with no ill effects while some stay really clean.

kpickett
11-09-2004, 01:23 AM
I actually did just check the compression, and it's really good across the board - near 200 psi. The oil doesn't really smell like gas, either. Could it be the PCV valve? How often should that be replaced?

JimN
11-09-2004, 09:38 AM
200 is kind of high. Did you remove the spark plugs and injector harnesses before you did the test? The PCV is cheap enough that you can replace it or clean it every year. Just like on a car or truck, if it's sticky, it's not going to work but that could be part of it. Watch the temperature for wild fluctuations, too.

east tx skier
11-09-2004, 10:53 AM
Well, yeah. Ultimately, it's Indmar's warranty with MC and their dealers enforcing/supporting it. MC gets the motors and trannies ready to drop in. Even at MC training, we talked about oils and filters. They said that the most important thing is keeping it clean and not to overheat. The fact that they come with Pennzoil is basically a marketing agreement. The dealerships where I worked did sell Pennzoil and I never had any reason to change. It was reasonably priced and came in gallons, which I prefer when I have to do my own oil changes, let alone having to do ten in a day. Faster than opening quart bottles and they take up less space in the dumpsters.

I gotcha. Just a thought because I was looking at my brother-in-law's Supra this weekend and it had a "Pennzoil 15W40" sticker on the oil drain cap (Indmar engine).

As for brand, I understand it's a marketing agreement. Eleven years ago, they were plugging Mobil 1.

Thrall
11-09-2004, 05:20 PM
Thrall- I wasn't busting your chops, I was just being picky. I can definitely see your point in not wanting to change the oil in her truck. So, she wouldn't help you with that, eh? I do agree, though. Keep it clean and don't overheat it.

Yeah, I know Jim, just adding my .02. What it really boils down to is I've been in the office, estimating new projects, since May now, hence my regular activity on the ole' forum here, and am way past ready to get back out in the field and build something. I seem to feel the need to expound on everything I read. Bored, I guess.

Quite the contrary actually. While it's not her favorite pastime (working in the garage), she's quite handy at things like bleeding brakes, holding the other wrench when you can't reach both of 'em and other things of the like.
Fortunately for me, her opinion of when the house is too dirty and needs cleaned happens well before I think it's dirty. By the same token, my opinion of when the vehicles are too dirty or need repair (or mods! :woohoo: ) happens before she would feel those things are necessary. Works out pretty good. :headbang:

JimN
11-09-2004, 05:45 PM
I think I asked before, does she have a twin?

Thrall
11-10-2004, 02:14 PM
Nope, but has a cute younger sis who is doing her post-doc at MIT right now. Already married and one munchkin, though.

JimN
11-10-2004, 04:04 PM
Fat lotta good that does me! I guess I should have specified single, eh?

If she's in math, science or engineering, could you ask her if she knows a Physics professor named Mike Linda? I went to HS with him.

Thrall
11-10-2004, 04:19 PM
I'll ask her. She's been up there for about 6 months now. Got her Phd in biophysics / biochemistry from Texas A&M, alot of gene research and cell splitting and stuff. That definately is science.