View Full Version : To re-build, or Jasper?

11-01-2004, 08:04 AM
My 88 Pickup is hurting... I don't know what exactly is wrong with it yet, but we're pretty sure one of it's piston's isn't in very good shape.

Assuming that I'll have to bore it, new piston, etc.... ending up with about 1/2 to 3/4 the price of a "new" jasper motor (I know they're all re-built).

Anyway - I have a very good, honest source to do the motor work if I decide to not go with the Jasper.

What are your thoughts? Has anyone had any luck with Jasper? They do a lot of motors, so they must be doing something right.

11-01-2004, 09:46 AM
I'd look into a brand-new engine too...if you decide the new engine route. I am not sure what Jasper costs, but if you have a Chevy 350 you can get a NEW (not rebuilt) engine for about 1500.

11-01-2004, 10:35 AM
I have used a bunch of Jasper motors, as well as a few lower gear cases for I/O drives. Never had a problem. I also went on a tour of their plant in Indiana. They don't just rebuild, they remanufacture. They may keep some of the connecting rods, but if they have a problem with any of them, they replace them. Valves, pistons, lifters, pushrods, bearings, all fasteners- replaced. The cam they regrind according to factory spec and clean up the crank, then install the correct bearings to fit. Hone or rebore the cylinders, regrind the valve seats, magnaflux heads and block. They give a 3 year/50K mile warranty on the motor.

With a new GM motor, everything is new, the warranty is similar and if there's a problem, you can take it to any GM authorized service center for repair. Same with their transmissions and crate motors.

What is your motor doing that it needs work?

11-01-2004, 11:01 AM
I have a Jaspar motor in my truck and it's been great. Only have 20,000 miles on it so far. I did a lot of research before this replacement and it seemed to be the best way to go. Remember that a lot of your cost is going to be in labor to get the motor out, the components swapped (and some replaced since it's easy to replace thing with the motor our) and it all put back together again. Those costs don't really change with brand or new vs. reman.

11-01-2004, 11:46 AM
I'd look into a brand-new engine too...if you decide the new engine route. I am not sure what Jasper costs, but if you have a Chevy 350 you can get a NEW (not rebuilt) engine for about 1500.
$1500 - WOW... whas that just a short block, or the whole thing? Jasper wants $1623.75! Yes - it's a TBI 350 from a 1988 Chevy 1/2 ton.

I'm not exactly sure whats wrong, but we're pretty sure I have a piston that went bad. Sure - I probably only need 1 cylinder bored, 1 new piston, rings, etc.... But - if the damage extends into the Crank and Cam - it soon adds up to a complete overhaul.

Where did you get your 350?

thanks again

11-01-2004, 02:26 PM
I got mine from Pace Performance (website below), and it is a long block 3yr/50,000 mile warranty. Mine is a 1989 light duty 3/4 ton 4x4 with the K code in the vin. (PN 12568758) The shipping was $100 and the core charge was $100 (less than usual remans cause they want the core to do the next one). I Have about 25,000 miles on mine no problems. The cheapest my local dealer could do was about $2,500.


11-01-2004, 02:29 PM
Oh, and I still have my old engine. It has good heads on it, it had 104,041 miles on it when it died. One rod cap failed, causing some cylinder damage and some lower end damage..but other than that it should be ok if you're interested in going the repair route I may have some parts you could be interested in. Oh, and the Long Block includes the tin.

11-02-2004, 06:36 AM
Wow - those are some great prices..... Thanks.

My engine buddy didn't show up last night again. I'm just about to go ahead & pull the heads & see what's up. $$$ is tight for me right now, so I may end up going the repair route if at all possible (again, I dont' know for sure what's wrong). We're thinking I had a wrist-pin fail. If that's the case, the cylinder may need bored - then I"m not in the repair mode anymore anyway.

If I'm wrong & it's just a valve retaining clip that's letting the valve drop too far - then I may be looking you up. (depending on what else is damaged).

That's crazy - a new motor cheaper than a re-man'd Jasper. Go figure.

11-02-2004, 08:12 AM
Crazy is what I thought too...and it isn't even some fly-by-night engine, it's a GM Goodwrench, so you know it can't be all bad...

Good luck with your engine trouble...

11-02-2004, 05:27 PM
....That's crazy - a new motor cheaper than a re-man'd Jasper. Go figure.

Saw this post, thought I'd offer the reason for remanufactured engines being more.

If you go to an OEM engine plant, you would see pallets upon pallets of parts. Blocks, cranks, heads, etc. Boxes and boxes of small parts.

These engines are put together pretty quickly. The horsepower rating is a nominal (advertising) rating. Actual rating is usually less, due to engine being tight. (Ask any NASCAR groupie, loose is fast.) Good basic build, not to many duds, last for decades in normal use.

A good remanufacturer, has to measure tolerances on everything, so more labor time on a rebuild. Jasper does a very good job. I know several mechanics, who uses them. Typically, you actually get the advertised HP. Cool thing about Jasper, you can ask for upgrades, without paying out the nose.

11-03-2004, 06:11 AM
Thx for the input. I'm sure that a Jasper is everybit as good, if not better than new.

It's just real hard to go re-manufactured when New is (more or less) the same price.

BTW - had another person take a listen last night. We think we have it narrowed down to a toasted wrist-pin or a bearing that has enough slop that it's allowing the piston to hit the head, yet not make any typical bearing noise.

Either way - it has to come out of the truck.

11-03-2004, 08:39 AM
I wish I could hear the sound. If it is a really fastclicking you are probably right. BUt if it is slower (once every two rotations) it could be in the valve train (collapsed lifter, bent pushrod, loose rocker). Have you pulled a valve cover off yet?

I am sure Jasper wouldn't do this but, here is an intersting thing. I have taken apart a reman engine before after it failed and found the camshaft to be in good working order...except for the fact that who ever remaned the engine had taken an aparently broken cam and welded it back together and reground it...that right there turned me off to remans...especially with the price difference being so small to that of a new engine.

11-03-2004, 11:33 AM
Yes I have the valve cover off.... It's either the hardest lifter anyone I know that has listened to it has ever heard, or the weakest bearing.

We actually are thinking that the bearing started to go & it's allowing the piston to smack into the head. We know which cylinder it's doing.

I'm very tempted to just pull the intake & head off in the truck. Then - if I need to, drop the Crank out the bottom if it's a fix. If it's a replace, then i did a lot of work I didn't need to do.

Chilton's says it'll take 14 hours do an engine swap by an ASE cert mechanic (my buddy has a book. That's how he figures out all his labor costs).

decisions decisions decisions....