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Jwhitsett1129
07-11-2006, 04:54 PM
What's the consensus on hooking a water hose up to the intake in order to work on the boat in the driveway? I assume that as long as the temperature is good then I should be ok, but I worry that a hose won't produce an adequate volume of water. I need to make some carburetor adjustments and would like to avoid driving all the way to the lake to do so....

Thanks,

Jesse

Dan K
07-11-2006, 05:06 PM
The best way I have found is to disconnect the intake hose from the bottom fitting. place this in a 5 gallon bucket and run your garden hose into the bucket. This allows for a small reserve for when you run the engine past idle. The hose will enerally keep pace for idle speed.
Also doesn't hurt to lube your strut bearings in case your prop shaft spins.

bigmac
07-11-2006, 05:11 PM
I just pull the intake hose from the through-hull fitting and connect a garden hose up to it. Works fine, cheap to make (about $10 in parts from the hardware store). No bucket-filling required.

http://mccollister.info/fitting.jpg

M-Funf
07-11-2006, 05:14 PM
I do the same as bigmac, except that my boat has a hose spiget (sp?) located along the intake tube, so all I have to do is hook up the hose to that, open the spiget, turn on the water and start the boat :D

Before the water is on, it's all pouring out the bottom pickup. As soon as I start the boat, all the water is going toward the engine...

I really just do this to make sure the boat STARTS...nothing more...

oxberger
07-11-2006, 05:22 PM
My mechanic does what big mac and m do. As a matter of fact when I was picking the boat up, after it had been de winterized, he had made the adjustments you want to do after letting the engine warm up. I asked him about this and he said as long as you keep an eye on your temp gauge you should be able to run the boat this way for a while.

east tx skier
07-11-2006, 05:43 PM
If I have the bucket available, I go that route.

bigmac
07-11-2006, 06:00 PM
My mechanic does what big mac and m do. As a matter of fact when I was picking the boat up, after it had been de winterized, he had made the adjustments you want to do after letting the engine warm up. I asked him about this and he said as long as you keep an eye on your temp gauge you should be able to run the boat this way for a while.

When I winterized last fall, I turned the hose all the way open and actually had trouble getting the engine up to temp - wouldn't go above 140 degrees on the gauge. I shut the water down a little which finally got it up to its operating temp of 160.

I like the idea of a valve on the connector - it would simplify the process. I was thinking I'd get a three-way ball valve so I could switch between off, hose, and bucket suction for getting that 5 gallons of RV antifreeze in there.

M-Funf
07-11-2006, 06:11 PM
I like the idea of a valve on the connector - it would simplify the process. I was thinking I'd get a three-way ball valve so I could switch between off, hose, and bucket suction for getting that 5 gallons of RV antifreeze in there.

I had thought about swapping out my hose bib for a three-way valve, but was concerned about creating suction on the intake side and perhaps collapsing the hose...With the hose bib, the lake intake is still open so a suction situation can't be created. If you use a bucket and not a hose, you'd probably be O.K.

On my other boat, even using a bucket is a problem. The pump moves so much water that the 2" intake hose collapses if I'm not careful.

rspiecha
07-11-2006, 06:20 PM
Doesn't www.skidim.com sell a device that does all of the above with a more permanent device???

WTRSK1R
07-11-2006, 06:37 PM
Yes, SKIDIM sells a device called Flush Pro.
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DP7


There is also a device called "Fake a Lake" which is basically a toilet plunger that a garden hose connects to. You put it under the boat over the intake strainer.
http://www.shipstore.com/SS/HTML/ALL/ALLFAK01.html

Either of these are fine for running the boat at idle, or slightly above, but I have been told not to exceed 1000 RPM's when running it on these type of devices.

El Jeffe
07-11-2006, 06:59 PM
I can never get my Fake a Lake to stick to the bottom of the cover...The plunger part does not fuly cover teh metal portion on my 205...
I likethe other suggestions...

bigmac
07-11-2006, 07:01 PM
I had thought about swapping out my hose bib for a three-way valve, but was concerned about creating suction on the intake side and perhaps collapsing the hose...With the hose bib, the lake intake is still open so a suction situation can't be created. If you use a bucket and not a hose, you'd probably be O.K.

On my other boat, even using a bucket is a problem. The pump moves so much water that the 2" intake hose collapses if I'm not careful.

I bought some 3/4 inch Spa tubing from the hardware store, which is non-collapsing. My current method of winterizing is using that Spa tubing to suck up the anti-freeze out of a bucket since I don't have room to get the bucket close on my V-drive. I have to disconnect it from the garden hose to do that. My thought was the three-way valve between spa tubing for suction, regular hose, 1 1/4 fitting for the MC intake hose.

TMCNo1
07-11-2006, 07:13 PM
I have used a "Fake-A-Lake" forever with no problems, but some v-drives have a problem with the bunks being in the way of the water intake.

billr
07-11-2006, 07:24 PM
TMCNo1 is correct about v-drives. "Fake-A-Lake" won't work because of the trailer bunks.

Tom023
07-11-2006, 07:33 PM
I replaced the original plastic through hull fitting and my leaking Flush Pro with this setup. Just attached the hose and go.

Jwhitsett1129
07-12-2006, 10:39 AM
Went with the bucket method and worked just fine. I may make some modifications over the winter to make life easier, but am in no hurry.

Figured out what my problem was...someone in the past had screwed up the linkage on the carb and then tried to rig it to work properly. Long story short, only 2 of 4 barrels are opening. Should be back in the water by this weekend...finally!