View Full Version : Fitch Fuel Catalyst - Fuel Stabilizer

10-27-2004, 11:20 AM
Wondering if anyone has any experience using this for fuel stabilization.
I've read about these in my snowmobilwe mags for a couple years now and 1 mag has tested them extensivly with good results.
For those unfamiliar with this, they are some type of metal pellets in a plastic cage that you put in the tank. You leave them in forever and the metal acts as a catalyst w/ the hydrocarbons in the fuel, eliminating fuel deterioration, varnish/gum, bacteria growth and maintain the octane rating of the fuel indefinately.
They cost about $40/pr and each one is sufficient to maintain, I think, 10-15 gal fuel.
I'm really considering trying these, as I will not winterize my boat here, but will not be operating nearly as much as in the summer.
The mag that has tested these (Snowtech) has used them in all their sleds, boats, motorcycles, mowers, etc for 3 years now. Claim they have never drained or otherwise treated the fuel and have not had one fuel quality related failure, or any machines that had gummed up carbs or failed to start after storage.

10-27-2004, 11:35 AM
Do they say anything about 2 vs 4 cycle motor use?

10-27-2004, 01:10 PM
Some of the sleds they used the device in are 4 strokes.

I LOVE Snowtech mag. IMO, it is by far, the most technical and analytical snowmobiling mag out there. I too have read extensively about the fuel catalyst, and their opinion on it, but here are my thoughts.
1. It seems like a gimick, and I don't like gimicks. I know, I know... Snowtech says it really works. But I still liken it to the "Tornado", Slick 50 et al., TB spacers w/"swirl" groves in them, Splitfire spark plugs, and so on.

2. Like Snowtech, I've never had a fuel related problem. But I don't use the Fitch fuel catalyst. Never had issues in any of my sleds, my boats, my summer cars, nothing. So I don't see the point of it. It may actually help, but does anyone here really have fuel problems and therefore need something like this?


10-27-2004, 01:47 PM
They don't differentiate between 2 and 4 cycle. Just meant to keep up the fuel quality.

Luckily I've never had a 2 stroke burn down from bad / low octane fuel (well, except my '77 Exciter 440, but that thing ate pistons for breakfast), but definately had carbs gum up in chainsaws, sleds when they sat for 6 mo or more.

I try to Stabil the fuel in my sleds, bike, saw, etc when stored, so my fuel problems have been minimal.

I don't know. Almost need to do a long term storage test w/ alot of the SAME engines, 1/2 w/ Fitch, 1/2 w/nothing and couple different brands, types of fuel. Kinda seems like a gimmick to me too and somthing that would be hard to prove or disprove the effectiveness of w/o a large test sample, or lab equip to analyze fuel quality.

I've never stored a MPI engine before, so I want to do what I can for this motor. Carbs I can pull apart and clean up no prob. 8 fancy injectors clogging up sounds like $$$$$!

Tom, do you stabilize what fuel is left when you store your toys?

On the same note, maybe it's different w/ boats stored in a humid climate, but I've never filled the tank in any thing prior to storage. I siphon/run all the gas out that I can, stabilze whats left, run the machine until the stabilized fuel has made its way through the carb(s) and then shut off the fuel supply to run the majority of the fuel out of the carb(s). 4 strokes get some HEET in the tank when fired back up again after storage and 2 strokes get a little isopropal alky in the tank when I used to live in a humid climate.

10-27-2004, 02:16 PM
I noticed someone just posed the same question on Snowest site. Let's see what those boys have to say. Plenty of 'em over there seem to know everything about everything!

10-27-2004, 02:28 PM
Anything that combats the degradation of reformulated gas is a good thing.

Thrall- don't shut the fuel off and run it out. That would be the same as running out of gas and you know what happens when you do that with an electric fuel pump. Fill the tank, warm it up and get the stabilized gas into the fuel system, fog it and shut it down. The injectors should have no problem if the stabilized gas has flowed through them. After winterizing literally hundreds of motors, I have never had a problem due to the use of Stabil and fogging oil. I had a couple of customers bring boats in that weren't winterized and had problems, though. There was a lot of gook in the gas, which may have been there before from leaving their gas cans out in the open when they weren't using them, etc.

What's the real difference between HEET and isopropyl?

10-27-2004, 02:43 PM
What's the real difference between HEET and isopropyl?

About $2.00

10-27-2004, 03:41 PM
Thrall- don't shut the fuel off and run it out. That would be the same as running out of gas and you know what happens when you do that with an electric fuel pump.

Absolutely Jim. I was referring to carbureated machines. The only controversy there (w/carbs) is some think it dries out the seals if you run it out of gas.

What's the real difference between HEET and isopropyl?

$2.00 and a blown up 2 stroke engine if you use HEET in one. I've seen it happen more than once, not me though, I swear. I don't know what HEET is made of, but it's not alchohol, smell it once. I've seen 2 guys blow up their engines on different occasions when they had fuel icing problems and then added HEET. Not sure what it does, but its bad for 2 cycles.

11-02-2004, 12:13 PM
I noticed someone just posed the same question on Snowest site. Let's see what those boys have to say. Plenty of 'em over there seem to know everything about everything!

LOL! That's for damn sure! ROTF! For some reason I can't log in to SW!? I don't know what's up, and I've email the site administrator 3 times. I think I'm just going to have to sign up under a new user name. :(

Since I'm talking about BBS issues, anyone here know how to set this site so you get email notification when someone responds to a thread you've responded to? TIA for that one.

Thrall, I agree that a long term 1/2 and 1/2 test would be the only way to see if this thing really works at all. To answer your question I don't do anything to my stuff for storage, except:
1. Make sure all the tanks are FULL, to prevent condensation
2a. On the fourstrokes I change engine oil before storage so acids and water(condensation) don't cause corrosion over the storage period.
2b. On two strokes, I idle the engine for about 5 minutes, manually holding the oil injection lever in the WOT position to get a good coating of synthetic oil on every thing. Then I shut if off. BTW, I pulled the Ultra out this past weekend, I blew in the gas tank, flipped the choke lever, and it roared to life in three pulls.

I do wonder if fuel/storage issues are more prominent in humid areas. That may be a valid point.

11-02-2004, 12:28 PM
Thomas, read the other K100... whatever thread. I have a simpler explanation as to why you don't have fuel problems! Let me know what your new SW name is, or your old one if you get it to work. I'm "AZ800" over there.

Jim, I was referring to my carbureated toys, tools, vehicles. Yeah I don't want to be buying a new fuel pump in the spring.

11-04-2004, 12:29 PM
Thrall, I got my stuff squared away over at Snowest. My username is "Ton400CFI". I'll see you over there.