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View Full Version : Flexplate / Bellhousing Maristar 225vrs 1995


afkvrts
07-06-2006, 01:33 AM
Hi All,
My prop wont turn, when I start the boat it is fine but it sounds like something is bouncing inside the bellhousing...
I'm guessing my flexplate needs to be replace.

Please help me in getting a step by step instructions on how to remove and replace it.

Thank you,
Afroz

afkvrts
07-06-2006, 12:21 PM
If anyone could help out here I would appreciate it.

I also read this may be the damper plate ?

Can someone give me the technical name for what is broken.

Thanks,
Afroz

BrianM
07-06-2006, 02:15 PM
Sounds like you have broken damper plate (pasicly a flex plate) and the spring and pieces are rattling around in there. The part is about $100 at DIM (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R140004) but you wil have to pull the tranny to replace. Not really a hard job but will take a bit of time. Will have to disconnect the prop shaft. Support the back of the motor remove the bolts that hold tranny to motor and disconnect the mounts that hold the tranny to the boat. Remove the tranny then remove the damper plate which should be just a few bolts. Install in the opposite order and should be good as new.

billr
07-06-2006, 02:44 PM
Also have to remove the V-drive. If you remove the center back seat first, you will have more room.( The whole seat, not just the cushion ) Be sure to disconnect the tranny filter too!!

afkvrts
07-06-2006, 02:48 PM
Thanks for the reply Brian. I called about the part and its about $150 out the door. Please tell me this...How should I proceed. Whats first. Do I loosen the bellhousing bolts / WHAT TO DO ??

I'd like to get some directions on how to proceed. Do I remove the bolts to the bell housing and remove?

Please advise.

Thanks,
-A

Please call me with info.
510-461-9266

bigmac
07-06-2006, 02:54 PM
Also have to remove the V-drive. If you remove the center back seat first, you will have more room.( The whole seat, not just the cushion ) Be sure to disconnect the tranny filter too!!

What's the difference between the transmission and the V-drive?

afkvrts
07-06-2006, 03:07 PM
They are two different units, do both come out or just one?


Please let me know ... I'm gonna start wrenching later today!!!
thanks everyone.... If someone could call me I would appreciate it.

BrianM
07-06-2006, 09:20 PM
Also have to remove the V-drive. If you remove the center back seat first, you will have more room.( The whole seat, not just the cushion ) Be sure to disconnect the tranny filter too!!

Oh yeah forgot that we are talking V-drive here. That does complicate matters a bit and I have no idea what is involved with removing that hopefully someone else can help you there.

I didn't know they made anything but a direct drive!? ;)

billr
07-06-2006, 10:02 PM
afkvrts: After removing the center seat section, remove the four coupling bolts to the shaft. loosen rear motor mounts. You will need an engine hoist, or chain fall to pick up engine enough to seperate the v-drive and tranny from motor. Just high enough for clearence. One person can handle v-drive and tranny by themselves. ( one at a time) There will be some wires to remove, and tranny filter lines. LABEL everything you remove, so you know how it goes back. Take your time, and it will get done.

afkvrts
07-07-2006, 12:34 AM
Thanks billr,
I'd like to know if I need to remove everything including the shaft. Or can I leave the shaft in place and just disconnect it. I have never removed the tranny, v-drive, or seat. Should I just start removing parts and labeling them?

I'm anxious to know how to proceed.

Thanks,
Afroz

afkvrts
07-07-2006, 12:39 AM
Is there anywhere online where I can get detailed instructions?

Thanks,
-A

bigmac
07-07-2006, 08:31 AM
Is there anywhere online where I can get detailed instructions?



I don't think so. I've looked hard for anything resembling a service manual for the boat, the engine, the tranny. I think that there is a transmission shop manual available to dealers for the newer Hurth transmissions, but I dont' know how non-service-techs can get one. You might ask your dealer, but I sure haven't found anything like that online for any of the other components.

billr
07-07-2006, 10:06 AM
You may need to move the shaft back a little, I really don't remember. I labeled everything just to make sure everything went back in it's proper place. ( Masking tape and pen ) I also removed the motor mounts from the block because that was easier for me. You will have to raise the rear of the motor to have enough clearence to remove the v-drive. Start with the seat,to give you more room, and go from there!

boyd
07-07-2006, 04:27 PM
I did this job about 2 weeks ago on a ski brendella 351 pcm direct drive.
I do have a question. I"m not sure if I got the .003 feeler guage part correct. What if I tightened too much, what will happen or how does this effect the job.?

afkvrts
07-07-2006, 05:25 PM
When are feeler gauges needed?

boyd
07-08-2006, 08:37 PM
Avkerts, I'm new to this forum and dont' mean to be a smart_s_.
But, you are going to need help. One person can do it but two is much easier. Feeler guages are thin pieces of metal of different thicknesses that you can put into tight spaces to make sure what the distance is between two objects, IN this case the drive that comes from and bolts to the drive shaft from the trans. You also don't need an engine hoist, or at least I didn't. (mine was a direct drive, is that what we're talking about?). I used a scissor jack from my car. Loosen the front motor mounts and remove the back ones. THis will allow the back of the motor to be jacked up about 3-4 inches. Be careful. IF it's a direct drive you can send me a message for my # and I can tell you more.
Good luck.
BOYD

afkvrts
07-09-2006, 01:48 AM
Hi Boyd. I know what a feeler gauge is, but just didnt know why I would need it.

I plan to start on Monday, I'll take pics the whole way. Stay tuned for the first set.

-A

bigmac
07-09-2006, 09:49 AM
When are feeler gauges needed?
Feeler gauges are needed to get the engine/prop shaft alignment set properly. Attached is a Word document that details that final-but-crucial step in your project.

http://mccollister.info/propshaft.jpg

afkvrts
07-09-2006, 11:38 AM
Thanks for the word doc. It has alot of good info.

-A

afkvrts
07-25-2006, 09:53 PM
I've been slow to work on the boat. Its been HOT and I only get about an hour in the morning and evening to work on it. What I have done so far:

1. removed the middle seat.
2. removed the four bolts holding the shaft to the v-drive.
3. disconnected and labeled all wires and cabels and tranny lines.

My next step as I have been told is to lift the back of the motor.
To do so I need to hoist the motor, I have a cherry picker which I plan to try and use. Once the motor is secure I need to remove the trany mount bolts and then lift/tilt the back of the motor up so I can remove the tranny and v-drive as one unit. I am told there will be enough room once the motor tilts. (Should I loosen the front motor mounts a little?) Once the v-drive and tranny are out I will remove the bell housing and expose the flexplate/damperplate.

PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY INFO OR ADVISE... I DONT WANT TO BREAK ANYTHING OR DO IT WRONG.

Heres a few pics.
11998

11999


-A

afkvrts
07-25-2006, 09:55 PM
Can someone tell me how to fix my pictures I want to have them show up not give the links.

Thanks.

I fixed the pic problem. A

afkvrts
07-25-2006, 09:57 PM
Added pictures.

afkvrts
07-31-2006, 10:45 AM
I got the bellhousing/tranny/v-drive out as one unit.

It was fairly easy. I have pictures below.

What I did:
1. Made sure all wires and hoses were clear.
2. Lifted the motor with a cherry picker to remove weight from tranny mount bolts, then removed the bolts.
3. At this time the shaft was kinda stuck to the v-drive, but after jacking the motor up and a little shaking it came free.
4. Now I removed the wire cover which looks like a shoe it also has a circuit breaker on it. (red button) This was needed for clearance when we would lift the bellhousing.
5. Next remove all but one of the bolts holding the bellhousing to the motor. There are also two small bolts holding a bottom flywheel shield. Remove the shield too.
6. Now remove the motor mounts from the stringer on both sides. (these bolts are on the other end of the tranny mounts, furthest to the outside) There are only two bolts holding it down. 1/2" wrench size on mine. After removing the two bolts the entire mounts fell out.
7. Now the whole back end is free with lots of space. Next lift the motor a little more and then remove the last bolt holding the bellhousing to the motor. BE CAREFULL!!! The tranny, v-drive, and bellhousing weight about ~120lbs (I dont know the exact weight but it was heavy). It took two guys to get it out. One person holding near the v-drive and one person holding the bellhousing.

12152

12153

12154

12155

-A

afkvrts
08-04-2006, 07:24 PM
Need help on part # for my damper plate.

I have been given two part numbers: One is for the 1:1 tranny and the other is for the 1:1.5 In my boat I have the 1:1 tranny however after talking with the local mastercraft parts guys I am told that I should use the 1:1.5 damper plate.

The part numbers are below please let me know what you all think.

88-5201 part for 1:1 which costs $128.00
88-5203 part for the 1:1.5 which costs $248.00

Just a reminder of my boat details:
1994 Maristar 225vrs
LT-1 motor with a 1:1 tranny and the v-drive.


Thanks in advance. I need to put the order in earlly next week so please respond.

-A

billr
08-04-2006, 08:00 PM
I have the same set up as you, and would replace with the correct parts. I don't understand why you would need or want the 1:1.5 parts.. Jimn or enginenut ????

Engine Nut
08-04-2006, 10:33 PM
I have the same set up as you, and would replace with the correct parts. I don't understand why you would need or want the 1:1.5 parts.. Jimn or enginenut ????

Since there is a Walter V-drive attached to the 1:1, we would recommend the drive plate that is specified for reduction gear setups. We use that plate in all production applications with reduction gears, v-drive or in-line. Reason being, reduction gears tend to be a little noisy...they tend to rattle because of the way the gears are cut. The drive plate used with reduction gears has encapsulated springs instead of exposed springs. The encapsulated spings help to quiet the transmission.

Engine Nut

afkvrts
08-05-2006, 11:11 AM
Thanks guys. I really have not noticed any tranny noise in the past.

In all reality I'd like to use the OEM parts meaning the 1:1 however I was told that the 1:1.5 was better built and heavy duty, I was also told the 1:1 fails often and when it does it can cause alot of damage. (I think the last statement is BS because my boat has about 350 hrs and knowing the current plate im removing pretty much blew up in the bellhousing area, It caused a couple dents/cracks in my bellhousing, and two of the bolt heads holding the plate to the fly-wheel got messed up, and were hard to get a socket wrench on.) I had minor damage.

Enginenut, is it such a big difference in noise reduction and are you sure that the parts are interchangable and worth the extra $$$.


Thanks.
-A

bigmac
08-05-2006, 11:22 AM
Enginenut, is it such a big difference in noise reduction and are you sure that the parts are interchangable and worth the extra $$$.


I believe that Enginenut is at the top of the experts' list on this subject. I certainly understand your concern, but IMHO, a second opinion is likely unnecessary.

Engine Nut
08-05-2006, 02:58 PM
Thanks guys. I really have not noticed any tranny noise in the past.

In all reality I'd like to use the OEM parts meaning the 1:1 however I was told that the 1:1.5 was better built and heavy duty, I was also told the 1:1 fails often and when it does it can cause alot of damage. (I think the last statement is BS because my boat has about 350 hrs and knowing the current plate im removing pretty much blew up in the bellhousing area, It caused a couple dents/cracks in my bellhousing, and two of the bolt heads holding the plate to the fly-wheel got messed up, and were hard to get a socket wrench on.) I had minor damage.

Enginenut, is it such a big difference in noise reduction and are you sure that the parts are interchangable and worth the extra $$$.


Thanks.
-A

You can use the 1:1 plate but even it is different that the plate that you currently have. It is a much heavier springs and is much stronger. It is up to you but do you think we would spend extra $ for a special plate for gear reduction applications if it wasn't worth the extra cost. The plates are interchangable. It is your choice.

Engine Nut
08-05-2006, 05:48 PM
Here are photosof the various drive plates for your review. Theone with all he holesand slits is the onethat we do not use any more. The one with the large wxposed springs is used in 1:1 applications and the one with the covered springs is used in gear reduction applications.

Engine Nut

afkvrts
08-06-2006, 07:15 PM
Thanks for the replis everyone. I also appreciate the pictures. However now I have another question. I have posted a picture of my plate please let me know if it is ok to replace with the round versions.

12324

Thanks,
A

Engine Nut
08-06-2006, 08:46 PM
Yes, the round plate replaces the triangular one. Have your dealer order the special bolts also.

Engine Nut

afkvrts
08-06-2006, 11:56 PM
thanks a bunch!

afkvrts
08-22-2006, 05:21 PM
Hey Enginenut. I am planning on installing it tomorrow. Im wondering how much to torque down the bolts holding the flexplate to the flywheel.

Let me know.

-A

afkvrts
08-28-2006, 06:13 PM
I found out that I should tighten the flexplate bolts to 35lbs.

Now, after putting everything back together, the motor wont crank when I turn the key. :( :( :(

Below is what happened.
1. I had the perko switch to my batteries in the "OFF" position.
2. When I turned the perko switch to turn on the batt's my motor cranked. So immediatlly I put it the perko switch back to the "OFF" position. After a quick inspection of the starter I found that the main positive terminal was touching the small iginition wire on the starter. After sepperating the two wires and turrning the perko switch to "ALL" I now tried to start the motor but the engine wont crank. I did try with a screwdriver to connect the main positive cable on the starter to the small ignition wire and was able to get the engine to crank.

What is wrong. Is my starter celenoid gone bad.

One a positive note: The entire job has only taken about 3 hours. It has been easy, but now my boat wont start !!!

Please advise.

-A

afkvrts
08-30-2006, 12:27 AM
Any help would be kindly appreciated.

afkvrts
08-31-2006, 02:18 PM
OK, I got the answer from another thread within this forum in the electrical section. : http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=10513&page=3

Thanks JimN, for giving the suggestions.

Turns out it was a slight adjustment needed on my shift cable, it was not exactlly going into the neutral position and so was preventing the motor from cranking.

-A

planoboy
09-02-2006, 06:05 PM
Congrats on getting the boat done in time for Labor Day weekend!

88 PS190
09-02-2006, 08:15 PM
Odd, my boat had a round flex plate and the new one sachs is the triangular puck.

Lowered the engine noise because the round one was only bolted in on 3 of the sections, leaving 3 loose to the flywheel that could rattle against the flywheel.

afkvrts
09-06-2006, 06:24 PM
I put six bolts on my round plate. Per EngineNut I ordered the new bolts and put them in.
Boat runs fine and the noise is the same no noticble change.

-A