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h2oskier
07-05-2006, 11:39 AM
It seems that the battery warning horn is sounding again this season. Last summer this was happening while the engine was off and the radio was on. I replaced the battery this year with a Sears DieHard Marine (Deep Cycle). Everything was good until a couple of weeks ago. No the horn is sounding and radio shuts off while we are moving down the lake. The Volt Meter reads just one line above 13. Is there another waring horn on the boat?

Thanks!!

bigmac
07-05-2006, 11:43 AM
It seems that the battery warning horn is sounding again this season. Last summer this was happening while the engine was off and the radio was on. I replaced the battery this year with a Sears DieHard Marine (Deep Cycle). Everything was good until a couple of weeks ago. No the horn is sounding and radio shuts off while we are moving down the lake. The Volt Meter reads just one line above 13. Is there another waring horn on the boat?

Thanks!!

I'm not sure a deep cycle battery is the way to go if it's the only battery on the boat. I think you'd want one as an auxilliary if you had a high-current drain device like stereo amp, but for starting, you'd want a cranking battery, which charges more promptly.

sking
07-31-2006, 11:20 PM
I have the same issue with a 2002 x30. My owners manual leads me to believe that the horn is only electrical. The red check engine light for temp and pressure. Any body know the real answer?

prostar205
08-01-2006, 02:47 AM
My low battery horn or siren started going off 2 weekends ago because I blew the voltage regulator up on the alternator. I would not go by what the volt meter reads on the dash. Take a portable multimeter and measure the voltage at the battery terminals when the boat is under load. It should be somewhere over 13V.

I have 3 batteries in my boat so I had the alternator upgraded from the stock 51A output to 101A.

With only one battery it won't take long to run it dry - depending on the reserver capacity.

I would invest in a second battery and put an isolation relay between the two batteries. Do a search on this forum for "Official Dual Battery" and you'll find all the information you will need.

GILLWHOPPER
08-01-2006, 07:45 AM
I was told by Bass fisherman friend that a Deep-Cycle battery was supposed to be recharged fully every night. In his case that may be true so his trolling motor will run all day. But as far as I know, Deep-Cycle battery's are used mainly for trolling motors and running accessories in RV's and Houseboats because they discharge slowly but, they are also supposed to be Re-charged slowly as well and on low amps or else they get ragged-out really quick. They usually dont have any good cold cranking amps either so they are not really good for starting the engine after cranking the CD player for an hour or two. Especially a BIG Monster engine in a Master Craft. I wonder what the average size boat motor is? Are most Marine batterys made for a 350 Chevy/Indmar or an 80 HP merc? My 1995 205 came new with an Interstate Marine battery that did really well for 3 years (w/no-amplifiers), after that I have had trouble keeping a battery charged for more than 2 summers experimenting with different brands (Sears Marine battery was the worst). We boaters with power amp's, lots of speakers and a big motor need a slow disharging-Hard cranking combo battery. My Sears battery got me stuck out and towed-in. Finally a friend with a PS-190 (Cap'n Kirk) told me about the Yellow-Top Optima battery. He runs three BIG amps has six speakers and two sub's (last time I checked) and said this was the battery I needed. He was right. I've had one (only one) for two summers now and all is well. I only have two 150 watt amps and four speakers, but I play them for a long time in between starts and it has never bogged. They also make a marine specific battery (Blue Top) and a Starting specific (Red-Top) but checking the specs and price the Yellow-Top was the one for me. About $167.00 for mine (Optima D34/78). These batteries have ZERO maintainence and can be mounted upside-down. The Yellow-Top is a "Deep Cycle" battery but it also kicks as a starter with 750 CCA. They claim it can withstand 350 complete discharge's. This Fixed my battery problem's. Check em out. I Hope this can help you. http://www.dcbattery.com/optimacatalog.pdf

JimN
08-01-2006, 08:06 AM
Deep cycle batteries are for long reserve capacity, not instantaneous cranking current. Cranking batteries aren't made for running accessories for a long time. A little research beforehand would have been a good thing. Batteries are task specific.

GILLWHOPPER
08-01-2006, 09:15 AM
"These are situaitons when a Deep Cycle Optima can successfully replace a Starting battery to provide longer life AND better performance"

JimN
08-01-2006, 09:20 AM
Such as? Not that Optima doesn't make really good batteries but a quote from their brochure without the facts doesn't really help much here. Can you post the reasons that back up the qoute so h2oskier can see them? I suspect that cranking a bigger motor with deep cycle isn't going to be as successful as an outboard, long term. Much less current drawn cranking an outboard and the associated voltage drop can be hard on alternators.

GILLWHOPPER
08-01-2006, 05:25 PM
In case the battery is the problem I included a link to the brochure so h2oSkier and others could read it and make up thier own mind if it may be a good choice for thier next battery (It certainly was for me). The fact is, as I stated before your post JimN, that this battery Is (technically) a Deep Cycle battery and will play my stereo in my boat for a very long time and lose hardly any starting power. I beleive the facts about deep cycle and starting batterys are both on this thread already and in the brochure link. If I or thier brochure made any false or unfactual statements please let us know what they were. Do you have any suggestions that may help h2oskier JimN?
Anyway , I hope what I found out about this battery will help someone here.

JimN
08-01-2006, 05:51 PM
The main thing I would do is isolate the cranking battery and the deep cycle, with the heavy current draw acessories connected to the deep cycle. The stock boat devices minus the stereo can be left the way they came since the boat can live without a stereo but the bilge pump, blower, horn, motor and lights are always needed. It sould be set up so the boater can make it home as the first priority. The stereo is gravy on the icing.

The thing about capacity is that with a battery that has current draw without being recharged, the voltage drops and because of Ohm's Law where Power=I(current)xE(voltage), in order to develop the same power in Watts, Volt-Amps or whatever units you want, if the voltage drops, current increases. As an example, if a 5.7L motor has a starter that draws 175A (on the lower part of the range, depending on compression, temperature, etc), a example using 175A @13.6Vdc=2380 Volt-Amps(Watts). At 12Vdc, the current increases to 198A. The large amount of current drawn in a short time adds to the voltage drop and taxes the alternator even more than it would otherwise.

Basically, if accessories that draw a lot of current are added, the alternator needs to be upgraded at the very minimum. If the current drawn is extreme, at least one additional battery will be needed, isolated from the starting battery. I'm not a big fan of stiffening caps, personally. A battery has a lot more capacity and will recover from transient current draw very well. If you're looking at an oscilloscope, the voltage will always have periods of sagging but unless the draw is continuous, it'll bounce back. Not so with a cap- they're just there to smooth out the voltage ripple, not hard, long-term draw. Any time high current is transferred, the cable size is critical, especially in a DC voltage system. Remember, the power supply connections are the most important. Terminals should be crimped and soldered properly. Crimping alone is asking for trouble.

After more than 7000 car/boat/truck (including an Oscar Meyer Weinermobile)/semi/yacht electronics installations, I have had very few installation-related come-backs. Look for the "Official dual battery thread"- it works.

I don't see a link.